cs057 Posted April 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 I see. There seems to be a lot of controversy as to what the correct volume should be. I know that having a plenum volume equal to the displacement can allow the cylinders to fill the full amount. Is this what you're suggesting I go for? If I change the size of the plenum I'd have to make a custom charge air pipe as well as well as new power steering lines. Not that I wouldn't be willing to do the work but that could mean my car won't be on the road for another month at the rate I do things haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs057 Posted April 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Oops messed the link up=P I'm going to use this as my plenum. I'll just need to add some ramps to even the flow a bit. http://www.rossmachineracing.com/dplenum.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs057 Posted April 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Because gold... Block off plate. Also had to use R's VVT as the flange shape was the inverse of my XC's original vvt setup. Forgot to buy a matching intake tube, whoops! Guess I'll have to improvise and make my own. Just using some 3" mandrel bent exhaust piping I had sitting around. Should look nice when it's finished and polished up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs057 Posted April 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Working on the exhaust. Unfortunately I won't be able to weld it up or make the exit pipes until the engine's in and I can adjust it. Tips are going right where the fender starts sloping at the bottom. Probably using these as the slant matches the fender better than a rectangular tip. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsp-403548/overview/imgur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod'sT-5 Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 That block off plate looks like its made from sheet metal, wont hold up to oil pressure. Needs to be thicker to seal correctly Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs057 Posted April 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 I was worried about that. I'll try to get something thicker. Thanks for the tip=) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs057 Posted April 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 Unhappy with the poor cylinder filling of the D plenum design I was going to go with I came up with this instead. Just a basic mock up though,considerable amount left to measure and flow simulate before it's an actually realistic design. It would be made of carbon fiber layered a carved foam molding. It would be attached by perimeter bolts and the fittings would be placed on the aluminum plenum backing plate. (over a carved) Stupid VS writing system>=( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 I'd keep external runner length to 6". Minimum plenum depth really should be 3" or greater.If you don't taper the runners off the flange, you will have issues with the ancillaries - that's why I went with 5 degrees. How will the CF plenum be sealed to the back plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs057 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 My general goal was to retain the the smooth torque curve of the factory intake manifold by keeping the runner lengths the same. The average runner length(straight runners) was approximately 7" before the trumpet part. I was going to add these to smooth it out even more http://www.rossmachineracing.com/200vstack.html The seal was is going to be provided through perimeter bolts. As long as the CF plenum has a girdle and is formed correctly no gasket should be required. EX. '> (Just with aluminum backing plate.) In regards to tapering I was curious about that. The ports aren't symmetrically oval/circular, how did you get the tubes to fit to the flange without ridges? I'll be sure to cut the pieces at 5 degrees though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs057 Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 @ Rod How'd I do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 @ Rod How'd I do? Too thin. If you're using aluminum plate, at least 1/4", not 1/8" - unless you want to risk distortion & oil puking everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs057 Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 I'd really like to avoid the oil puking part hehe. It's actually an 8 gauge piece of stainless, which is some respectably rigid stuff=) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs057 Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Almost done! =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs057 Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 I've been busy with finals this last couple weeks so progress hasn't been that great. I have nearly everything hooked up pipes, vacuum, wires, and coolant lines. I've cranked the engine but am getting no spark. So sadly I'll have to do some further diagnostics to see what the trouble is. Coolant temp sensor and the PCV sensor weren't hooked up so I'll try those first. Also the my XC's accessory belt doesn't fit( too loose), got the R belt and it still doesn't fit(to tight). Ugh, I'm kind of stumped atm=/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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