Jack8745 Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Hi everyone, it has been a long time since I been here ....... long story short - RN engine swap into my 97 glt (#3 cylinder decided to loose its skirt at 17psi) I have a few questions I was running white injectors on the original block (3 bar FPR)The RN block came with updated fuel rail and blue injectors (5bar fpr)current ecu is tuned for white injectors (ARD) but from what I read the white and blue flow the same (because one uses the 3 bar and the other the 5 bar fpr_. I want to run the updated fuel rail and I'm thinking about running the blue injectors. will my ecu have to be retuned for higher pressure FPR or does it not even know the difference ? second can I run the coolant temp sensor from cir 2000 RN block with my current ecu or will the ecu get the wrong reading Picture shows old (850 temp sensor with small threads) on top and new (installed in the RN housing) with a different connector if I can run the new coolant temp sensor does it matter which wires the temp sensor needs to connect to on the old harness Thanks everyone Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Coolant sensor is different. You need to use the old one. Figure out the thread pitch of the new sensor and make an adaptor for the new one. It's possible since the new style ECT is a larger thread size, however, they're close so you need to be careful when make the adapter. If you run the new fuel rail you'll need to swap over fuel lines since the FPR/return on RN equipped cars is under the firewall, not on the rail. Why would you want to run the new fuel rail anyways? If you need part numbers to convert to soft hose to feed the rail check post #173 in build thread for part numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack8745 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 well the 97 does not use a return line and I was going to use the RN (under engine ) to connect into the existing connector (under the firewall) anyone know where I can source an adapter for the old coolant temp into the RN housing ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack8745 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 sorry NOT the FPR I was thinking about the fuel pressure dampener on the fuel rail. anyways this Im just going to use a flair kit and make the RN line work with the 850 threaded fuel line Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Oops, forgot about the switch over on 850s in 97. Off the top of my head I forget the two thread pitches, but I remember they were so close that I had to cut the threads on 3 separate pieces because i kept cutting through, and this was on a millport, not by hand. I looked online for a thread adapter and couldn't find one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack8745 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 I think its only on the 850 glts since they used m 4.4 not 4.3 (only 850 that has that factory) I was just reading your rn swap and saw you had the same problem.... looks like I need to find a 98 tstat housing off to pick n pull in the AM the old style coolant temp sensor is loose in the RN housing... do I need to swap the FPD ? when swaping fuel rails ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 I believe the new rail operates at 4 bar not 5. A retune will be needed to run those injectors at that pressure. The blues on your existing rail, at 3 bar, will perform identically to the whites. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobT5M Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Hey guys sorry I am late into this. I used the new sensor, and so did Jesus, just spliced and it was no problem. You actually reminded me I need to solder and heatshrink this connection. :/ Just ran out and took the pics since my hood is still open Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobT5M Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Yeah my Temp sensor issue was something simple, was unplugged. The pins came out of the connector which kept causing me to have overheat issues. Once I pushed them back in (plugged it in) the car has had no problems. I either got lucky on the polarity or got it right the first time because ive not had any problems since plugging it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 It's a resistance sensor so polarity doesn't matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack8745 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 so yeh or nah on the 99+ sensor? I know in the redblocks (blasphemy to mention this on VS ) when running the wrong coolant sensor. It screws up the fuel economy big time, not sure if it matters with the whiteblock ecu btw its a pain in the ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD to pull that thermostat housing. The whole accessory bracket has to come off... (pulled it today) looks like I'll be running the white injectors just not sure if I should swap the FPD (fuel pressure dampner) side note: if I fun the blue injectors with the original FPR (3bar) wont their duty cycle be better than whites ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobT5M Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Yes run the 99+ its just easier. I am running it on my 98 and so is another local. No fuel economy problems here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack8745 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 good to know I'm not a fan of dill and tap. makes me nervous every time ps at least you didnt get back to me after I taped and threaded the old sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobT5M Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 I was about to do the same thing but asked a local and he told me he was running the newer sensor so I did it too. Just splice the old sensir connector onto the new sensor and plug it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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