hgray14 Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 The ball joint on my passenger side control arm is toast. (When the car is off the ground, there is a ton of play at that joint.) 1) Should I replace the ball joint, or the whole control arm? 2) Is there any reason to replace both sides when the driver's side is still quite tight? 3) Are there any other parts that I should replace while doing this job? 4) Volvo OEM, MEYLE, Dorman, Beck Arnley, etc? ...or something else? (IPD has the Meyle HD kit (both control arms + bar ends) for about the same price as a single Volvo OEM control arm.) Thanks Houston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsterns Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 If I recall correctly you can just do the ball joint on 850's, V70 you have to do the entire arm. Check out your control arm bushings, if they look OK just ball joints is an OK think to do. An alignment is recommended after this job, so I'd do both sides and be done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow95 Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 You can just replace the ball joint on 93's and early 94's. ALl others its the whole arm. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBrick Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 since yours is a 95, you must do entire control arm. Supposed to replace bolts too. And unless you want the control arm to just last a year or two, go with Volvo OEM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 #1 choice = Lemforder (which is OEM) #2 choice...probably MOOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcstdad Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 since yours is a 95, you must do entire control arm. Supposed to replace bolts too. And unless you want the control arm to just last a year or two, go with Volvo OEM. exactly. I bought the cheapo's last year, and they are already toast. Just replaced them last week. Didn't even make it 12 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hgray14 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 IPD has Mehle HD control arms with a 4 year warranty. Anyone have experience with these specifically? This seems like an easy enough job that I'm not too worried about having to do it again if they fail in a year or two. Also, I read that I need to wait to tighten the control arm bolts until the car is on level ground. But why can't I do it in the air, as long as I have them in the same position as they will be when on the ground? With a lowered car, it will be very difficult to get under there and tighten them down once the car is on the ground. Seems easier to connect everything up while it is in the air, put a jack under the wheel and lift it to the proper position, and then tighten down the control arm bolts before lowering the car off the jack stands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin. Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Meyle, from what experience I have with them, (specifically their HD components) is that they aren't all that great With control arms the best option is to find the best deal on a set of OEM control arms or MOOG control arms and call it a day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Lemforder or Meyle HD Ive had the Meyles HDs on my parents XC for years without issue, and they get beat on from Maine roads. Do both sides! just like any other suspension component. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hgray14 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Being short on funds and long on free time, I'm going to try the Meyles HDs and hope that I don't have to exercise the warranty within the next four years. thanks for everyone's help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caanglin Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 I had all the meyle hd stuff (tie rods, control arms and end links) on my old 854R for a few years with no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty Moo Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 I'll chime in with my two cents, even though a few are going to disagree with me. I've installed a few sets of the APA/URO control arms. I blew one out on a pothole, but the same pothole also bent a strut, bent a wheel, blew a tire and trashed everything else. Aside from that I haven't had one get sloppy or fail yet, the set with the most mileage on them is about 65k or more at this point. This is also on Michigan roads. My s70 is lowered and I have about 25k on the set that is currently on it. They're still tight. My MIL's car has had a set for 55k, two friends have a set each, my old Platinum has them, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Where did you get them as I don't think FCP carries URO control arms anymore for the FWD X70/850? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty Moo Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Where did you get them as I don't think FCP carries URO control arms anymore for the FWD X70/850? First few sets were from FCP, the last two were through Amazon. The Dorman arms are Uro, $42.50, not from a third-party and prime eligible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIZIO AKA 1 HND MEC Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Also, I read that I need to wait to tighten the control arm bolts until the car is on level ground. But why can't I do it in the air, as long as I have them in the same position as they will be when on the ground? With a lowered car, it will be very difficult to get under there and tighten them down once the car is on the ground. Seems easier to connect everything up while it is in the air, put a jack under the wheel and lift it to the proper position, and then tighten down the control arm bolts before lowering the car off the jack stands. Change both side and make sure do a alignment to save the tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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