woah4 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Ok everyone I've been talking about it for awhile now but I am finally in a position to get some work done to my car. I already have a set of CX Racing 139.5mm rods to go in, I will be essentially doing an "inframe" of the engine in the car, not touching mains. I have been reading that sputters are the best rod bearings to go with, and a victor reinz gasket set should be fine. I intend to also put in a new set of rings, and some NA cams. I'm going for about 400whp, so I am under the impression stock pistons should be OK. The car currently has a straight flange 19t and M56, fmic with 2.5inch piping, 3 inch exhaust, 4.4 tuned, with white injectors. My plan is to go with an R manifold, NA intake mani and TB with 960 plate, use the same intercooler piping but upgrade to a larger core, AC delete and Heater Core Delete, if I can get one an RN oil pan and cooler, and a spec clutch. Turbo wise I would like to go GT3582 or GT3076, but if anyone has any other recommendations i'm all ears. The car will be used mostly for track runs, 1/4 mile, with occasional street use. I would like to use an injector similar in size to a 630cc siemmens but I have heard they dont play nice with our cars, so other ideas would be nice. Likely going to use the ARD 340LPH pump. I would like to keep the car 4.4 tuned, if that seems reasonable. I understand this probably means at the least upgrading the MAF, not sure what else. A Quaife would be nice but at the moment it will not be possible with everything else I want to do, hopefully in the future. I intend to get a good set of slicks on 16's so the car should still hook nice when at the track. If anyone has any input or suggestions I would appriciate it, I am almost at the point where I am going to begin tear down and part ordering so it would be nice to get any bugs worked out at this point. I search a lot of things myself but when you get to this level of modification it seems a lot of the knowledge is word of mouth and no one around here has done anything remotely like this that I have personally met. Thanks again everyone, this should be fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 630cc will not be enough for 400whp, not to mention dekas are poor injectors. 255LPH will provide enough fuel flow meaning you can go with a Walbro or Deatschwerks pump. This will save you ~$30 over the no-name ARD pump. Why would you delete the heater core? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Already having issues with it, hard lines are gone and it's either spend a bunch of money fixing it or ditch it, it's not something i will be using anymore anyway. Good to know about the pumps, as far as injectors I guess a 700-800cc would be more appropriate? Thanks Billy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Starting with the basics, reusing your pistons may not be wise, esp. if your goal is 400+. At that point, you really have no safety margin if you run into any tune problems (which is pretty likely). Melting the cast pistons becomes a distinct possibility. Beyond that, unless you have the bores properly checked for ovalling at the top of the bore, you may be doing all the work for naught. The problem is, no matter what, you will want more once you get started, so to limit the potential with old cast pistons & a hone is problematic. If you lower your expectations to max 350WHP, you likely will be OK staying with cast for longevity. 650cc Bosch Injectors (at 3.8 bar, so closer to 725cc) were completely tapped out (over 90% duty) at 445AWHP. Same for the DW300 pump. Walboro has lesser output up top. Once you get around 400 realm, you really need to think about upgrading fuel lines, etc. which will give you some headroom, and is pretty simple on a FWD platform. Not much point having that power level without a posi, you will be doing one-wheel burnouts which will get old fast. 2.5" piping is only 2.25" ID - for larger turbo & higher flow you would be better with 2.75-3" piping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 So if I try then for perhaps 350FWHP like you said, keep stock lines, stock pistons, use the walboro pump, and 650cc Bosch injectors should be fine for my application then... I guess at that point a GT3071 or GT3076 would be my best option eh? I suppose a 20G would be relevant at the point too but a turbo like a 3076 probably gives me more room to grow In the future... 3" intercooler piping with a better core, and then the rest as I was saying before, sounds pretty good to me. I want this to be a mid 13 second car and that should pull it off with a good set of tires under it I think. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
540i6speed Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 interesting thread as i am in the process of building a 1995 855 with a 400whp goal. I originally planned to keep stock pistons but with doing all this work already thinking might as well replace the pistons to support more power down the road, but for a lot more money and work. So right now i am in the same boat, do i lower my power goal to 300-350whp or build it completely for 400+? here is some stuff i have found searching that might be helpful. been thinking of trying this 20g instead of the hahn racecraft and found this engine kit that seems like a great deal. http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/kinugawabilletturbocharger24td06h-20gandblowoffvalveand8cmt3housing-1-1-1-1-1.aspx http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/pek-volvo.html $1069.99 Complete Gasket SetROSS/Wiseco Forged Pistons (81,81.5,82mm bore) and (8.0,8.5-1,9-1,9.5-1 comp ratio) Performance Rings Performance Wrist Pins TOGA HP Main Bearings TOGA HP Rod Bearings TOGA Valve Seals Timing Belt (please specify if 148 or 142 teeth) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
540i6speed Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 if you go with the gt3076 what are your plans for the wastegate? internal like the atp or a custom external? thats one thing that has pushed me towards just getting the 20g with internal wastegate and integrated bov. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 I would probably go internal, with a billet actuator. I realize external would be better, but it would make life easier to keep it internal for sure. And yeah that's my dilemma, lower my goals or fork out way more money, and do I really need 400whp... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Did anyone figure out if Toga is still selling the Volvo bearings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Yes, just order the complete set, not the mains or rods individually, someone in here bought them recently. 20g will be tapped out before 350whp. You might get there with the TD06 version, but it will be a stretch and the hotside is still restrictive if you want to make any power over 6k. Of course, you will need to mod a RN turbo intake or go custom if you want it to flow up top anyway.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Yeah, that makes sense. Sounds like an internally gated gt3076 will be the ticket then. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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