erikv11 Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 So just the last week or so, when I floor it the CEL illuminates. When I let off the throttle the CEL goes away. Never stores a code, no codes pending. Car seems to be running fine. If I floor it when coasting in neutral the CEL just blips for an instant, never stays on. Any ideas? This is the GLT in my signature. The engine still has the GLT red injectors but I adjusted the injector constant about a month ago, a couple weeks after I loaded the tune. LTFT is consistently between 0 and 0.8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 When that happens, it simply means the ecu is detecting knock and is pulling 15 degrees or more of timing from all cylinders. When the sum is 15 degrees or more it will illuminate the cel and then Turn off when it's done pulling timing. Things to do are make sure the plugs are gapped correctly and are clean... They need to be oem or equivalent, retarding the intake cam a few degrees, using a true cold air intake, running at least 91 at the pump, and last but not least if all else fails your gonna want to reduce the timing in the higher load cells on the ignition map... Wich has worked great for me. Also richening the mixture is key but if your using stock injectors and fuel maps and boost it should be around 11.5 to 12 at wot.Which is plenty rich. Oh and if your using the t5 map on your 2.4l I highly reccomend reducing the ignition map at least 2.5 degrees in high load areas to start with. That's what I did and I have no timing pull at all with 15lbs of boost and the car hauls ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD for a 15g Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted June 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 Thanks, good stuff. OK well plugs are almost new Volvo at 0.028 so that's OK, all ignition parts are almost new. Always 91 or 92 at the pump, depends where I go. Yes it is the T5 map on my 2.4 so I will see about the ignition map. Can retard the intake cam easy enough may try that too. I don't have a wideband installed ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 Cool I would definetly start off with reducing the timing 2-3 degrees and retarding the intake cam it should take care of your problem. If you still experience the pull add a little to your wot enrichment table and see how that goes. I would try to get a wideband as soon as you can it's critical to know what afr's your producing. These m4.4 have low threshold for knock and are really sensitive so exhaust rattles or bad mounts may have an impact also.. Good luck!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davejunia Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Ive been running inro this also. The person doing the tune for me is a bit baffled as to why im getting so much knock, its typically rght around 3k rpm. Most of my gnition parts are new, putting in a new coil tomorrow. Any truth to the exhaust rattles or bad mounts triggering the knock, has anyone actually seen this happen? My exhaust does rattle and my top engine mount is essentially missing....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 I'm sure it doesn't help but it seems logical since m4.4 is so damn sensitive to knock. Since the weather has gotten more humid and hot around I'm now experiencing the same symptoms as everyone else and I'm running only 9.25 degrees of ignition advance at the 3k to 3.6k area of the map. This is so damn annoying because I don't feel like the car is actually getting any knock. You go to floor it and bam the cel comes on and you loose power.. I did advance my intake cam back when I got it to go away the first time cause I seemed to make more power with the factory cam settings... I guess I'll retard it again and see if I can get it to go away. By the way if the motor is vibrating more then it should(bad mounts) you would think the ecu would detect the extra vibration as knock at wot. But then again some people run solid mounts but who knows if there running m4.4 idk pretty frustrating though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattyXXL Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 It seems that the 2800 to 3500 is the typical place for the knock cel. Aaron and I have been battling this, I've done a lot to make it better but it seems to be coming back little by little. I've replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, front o2, fuel filter, maf, coil, fuel pump, and installed a rip kit. All oem but the rip kit of course. It has gotten better every time. I'm going to ask him if I should retard the cam. You talking about retarding the actual cam right not just in tp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davejunia Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Im currently working with Aaron also. Ive replaced most of the stuff you listed, except pump and RIP kit. New coil is going in tomorrow and im going to replace my torque mount bushing for good measure. Its been weird, yesterday it was bad, today it didnt seem to happen. Real PIA ,really..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Yea I was talking about the cam. My ignition map is already very conservative...imo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattyXXL Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 I just want to clarify, its my car not Aaron LMAo... I dont want people getting the wrong idea.. Its a labor of love, I was good from sunday to this evening. then I got on i95 to come home, went to pass a van, dropped a gear and it showed its ugly face. Not severe just limits boost then once it passes 3500 its a fucking rocket Im going to try to duplicate it tomorrow and actually get a log for him. By the time we are done every bolt and nut on the car will be tight lol Im currently working with Aaron also. Ive replaced most of the stuff you listed, except pump and RIP kit. New coil is going in tomorrow and im going to replace my torque mount bushing for good measure. Its been weird, yesterday it was bad, today it didnt seem to happen. Real PIA ,really..... Where do you live BTW? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davejunia Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 No i know what you mean,he's tuning for me as well. And what you described is exactly whT i have going on, sometimes its fine, but if i try to kick it down a gear the light pops on until just after 3k, then the boost kicks in and the thing goes ballistic lol. Weve been going back and forth, i think 5 flashes so far and about 13 logs, trying to get it right. Ive started suspecting the issue is with my car, hence getting the new coil, plugs, and mounts. Also, im in Massachusetts, the land of many taxes :- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horses With Gas Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 This is the GLT in my signature. The engine still has the GLT red injectors but I adjusted the injector constant about a month ago, a couple weeks after I loaded the tune. LTFT is consistently between 0 and 0.8. So the injector constant is set for the stock GLT red injectors, injector constant 1.000. Are the injector voltage values unchanged from the -607 Bosch White (347cc/min) values? Is the injector constant the only change from the 607 rev5b bin? I've got some of the same issues. I've got no problems with the stock ECU ("stage zero"), but using a spare flashed ECU the midrange rpm running -607 rev5b with moderate to high load brings knock or misfire. WOT fuel enrichment and reducing ignition timing seems to help in some ranges. I've got the knock issue even running a LPT ignition map with LPT VE Part load map. One possible factor is that that the boost maps from -607 rev5b aren't agreeing with the the LPT. Volvoguy23, did you change anything in the 607 boost or VE Part Load maps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 I'm running a mbc for right now because my tcv is bad. So I've never had a chance to mess with the boost maps. I did however adjust my VE map finally so that right when I start building boost my afr's get into to the 13's and 12.5 range just to be on the safe side. My ignition map is also reduced in other areas besides the highest load row of 8.02 so that the ignition isn't too aggressive when getting into boost and going into wot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davejunia Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 Honest to God, the stuff you guys are talking is way over my head, hence why im having someone else do my tune. For what its worth, as discussed earlier in this convo, i changed out my coil, plugs, and torgue arm bushing today, with no change. Carry on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horses With Gas Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 davejunia, I've replaced that stuff, too. Otherwise I'd probably still be wondering if the old parts could be contributing to the issue. That said, the knock sensors are detecting frequencies we don't hear. I knew about the detonation/knock by the CEL and the datalogs - I never heard any knock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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