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'04 V70 2.5T Awd Turbocharger Replacement


babyclaude

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At the end of last summer, we bought a 2004 V70 2.5T AWD with 140k miles for my brother, who lives about 3 hours south of me. It needed some work (PCV, timing belt, etc, etc), and at the time I thought the price was reasonable. With the help of my buddy, we replaced the PCV system, and I had a Volvo dealer replace the timing belt and some other odds and ends. After this, the car ran strong until a month ago.

Fast forward to about a month ago, and I get a phone call from my brother saying that after the car is started, it blows a lot of blue smoke for a couple minutes (I mean A LOT), then it subsides. He says the gas mileage has gone to hell. I told him to take it to our family mechanic since I am far away and am unable to look at it myself.

Mechanic says the turbo is filled with oil and the catalytic converter is bad. Head gasket is still ok.

Do you guys think it is worth it to replace the turbo with a used one from Erie Volvo? My mom is on the fence about fixing this V70 or getting another car. That being said, a lot of money was spent on the wagon in the first place between buying it and doing the PCV/timing belt for us to get less then a year out of it. Personally, I'd rather do the work myself to minimize the cost. I haven't done a turbo before, but I have replaced the exhaust manifold of my 850 N/A and done various things to my c30 and other cars. Along with the turbo, what gaskets,o-rings and associated things should I replace along with it? I can only assume a used unit wouldn't come with all that stuff.

Thanks for the help.

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you can just do a hot side turbo replacement =4 hrs

make sure to buy all new copper orings and drain tub gaskets and you should be fine.

- now since your car is awd make it 6 hrs since the angle gear makes getting the dip tube to the turbo and such a utter pia LOL

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You know I'm always game to lend a hand!

Outside of the coldside/center thrust assembly, you'd need the drain tube gasket, drain tube o-ring, and about half a dozen copper crush washers for the oil and coolant fittings on the turbo.

As for the cat, get it unclogged (ie, ram a pipe through it a few times :lol:) and then throw a rear 02 spacer on and it shouldn't throw a code. Turns a $$$ fix into a $25 fix. I passed inspection this winter with my cooked stock cat and a rear 02 spacer.

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The car will be fine, just run it hard and it will clean right up. I've put tons of oil through these cats without a single issue.

In very surprised that the turbo went but if so, like stated above. Get a used turbo and swap it over. These are bulletproof turbos so any used one will do. This is just rare.

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The car will be fine, just run it hard and it will clean right up. I've put tons of oil through these cats without a single issue.

In very surprised that the turbo went but if so, like stated above. Get a used turbo and swap it over. These are bulletproof turbos so any used one will do. This is just rare.

Thanks. That's definitely what I was hoping to hear. We bought the wagon in the first place because of my years of good experience with Volvo. I was really hoping this was a fluke,

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Agreed with the above statements, get a used turbo and throw it on. One word of advice, make sure you remove the oil supply line that runs from the back of the block (behind the right axle) to the turbo and make sure it's free of sludge. This is the most common reason for turbo failure on these models.

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^^ Good to know. Given the state the PCV was in when we replaced it, I wouldn't be surprised if that line was full of sludge and caused the turbo to fail.

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Agreed with the above statements, get a used turbo and throw it on. One word of advice, make sure you remove the oil supply line that runs from the back of the block (behind the right axle) to the turbo and make sure it's free of sludge. This is the most common reason for turbo failure on these models.

Good to know! That will definitely be looked at.

Thanks for the pics Andy, what a fun day that was! So many deer on the drive back...................

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yea your gonna need to pull the pan on that guy and hey i can give you a hand if this hasent been done yet with a lift i can drop and reinstall a oil pan in 30 mins less on a r because if the pick up tube

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gosh, seen so many motors like that, just run it!

change the oil with a quality synthetic every 5K (which is a short OCI depending on driving) and it will make it. Cleaning the pan doesn't change much since most of the build up is actually in the head, and you would have to pull that to really get a good cleaning.

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