Cxracing Coilover Kit Install

[TIZIO AKA 1 HND MEC]

*FIRST OF ALL I AM NOT TRYING TO PROMOTE COMPARE OR SELL ANY PRODUCT, I DO NOT HAVE ANY CONNECTION WITH THE MANUFACTURER*

*** TREAD UPDATED***

So after the harsh winter and a few trip to the pothole-land NYC I pull the "trigger" on the CXRacing set on e-bay, delivery was very fast and the whole package was quite heavy.

So I bring the whole deal to the NEU BB-Q"R" in Vienna in order to have other people opinion.

After a complete check-up I bring them back home to install them.

Word of advise: spray with dw40 or similar all the suspension bolts/nuts on front/rear lift the car and drop'it ON JACK-STANDS ( DO NOT WORK WITH THE CAR ON THE HYDRAULIC JACK)

get a beer/soda and wait or clean the rims for a while

I start with the sway link ,

then the ABS sensor in order to avoid any unwanted damages,

get loose the two big bolts (LEAVE ONE IN TO HOLD THE WHOLE SPINDLE)

support from underneath the spindle(disk/axle bearing ) in order to prevent from falling forward and damage the axle/brake hose.

now you can take the top 3 nuts off, slide out the big side bolt and carefully take out the heavy and rusty part.

THE NEW COILS. FRONT

Out of the box the front's are way shorter than stock shock/ipd black combination, only weight is almost the same.

do not get tricked by the length,out of box set up is very high.

I insert (screw in) the main cylinder until the bottom edge of the bracket holder, see pic

the silver circle is the bottom of the coil (still have apr 1 to 2 inch to get lower)

the coil is nicely painted/welded and for the biggest relax the sway link tab is positioned perfectly and welded professionally ,in short is STRONG!

after you choose your height tighten well the aluminium big nuts with the special keys that came with the set.

the coils fit perfectly in with no problems whatsoever, you crank up the jack/spindle until the links reach the tab

insert back the ABS sensor connector, tighten well the two big bolts, crank the jack a bit in order to install the 3 top nuts.

With the wheel on air or on to the ground (under full load) the gap in between the rim and strut/coil assembly still the same apr 1 inch with the Midir's 18x8 and 225/40 tires and 3/4 of inch with the OZ's 18x8 and same tires ALL this with the spindle assembly fully puled outward from top.

THE NEW COILS REAR

Take out FIRST the 18 mm on the bottom of the rear shock,

now take out the top 12 mm nut and have a pliers handy to hold the top.

take the 15 mm nut from under the spring seat, push downward with your foot the whole assembly brake/disk/hub and with a pry bar push out the old spring (do not put your bare hand down there, spring might still under load) IF YOU DO ITS UP TO YOU or your skin

on the CXRacing rear coilover the adjustable spring perch stay on TOP!

Shock is adjustable too ( I choose a bit higher set up do to running a temporary set of wheels )

Install on revers like the stock ones, perch with big washer and 17mm bolt/nut go on the bottom install this one FIRST on the spring area!

My car set-up:

front IPD track sway bar connected on the street load, IPD sway links, IPD cherry strut tower bar.

rims OEM 2013"MIDIR" 18 x 8 ET60? with 225/40 ventus tires.

First thing you will notice is that when you sit on the car the body of the car will not move/lower at all!!!

After the first test drive I can tell you the car is flat on the corners at any "legal" street speed, traction is way better than previous set-up and you will feel almost any road imperfection if you choose the extremely rigid bounce set-up!!!

I DO NOT HAVE any rubbing front or rear with the actual set-up high wise, with two people on the car and the trunk heavily loaded.

Working on the other pictures at the moment, hope this help others to understand better the safety/performance upgrade that a set of coilover bring to our cars!!!

Please keep the comments strictly related to the topic, if you can will excuse my grammar/language and length of this post !!! Ciao Tizio.

*UPDATE AFTER 800 Miles*

*I HIGHLY SUGGEST A ALIGNMENT BEFORE ANY JUDGEMENT*

In order to avoid any fears and confusion you might want to get rid of all the loose stuff ,coins/tools/bolts and what not you have in your door pocket, coins holder, trunk THAT WILL RATTLE.

You will find out the following : your dash its a mess , your wheels are far from round, your tires/rims need urgent balancing, rear OEM strut mount bushing are on the way out .

After a mix of city and highway driving I check all the new parts that I install for loose ends, missing bolts etc. I came out with empty hands, Is all there in place the way I install'it.

City and hills: half soft/front and full hard/back (current set-up), the car drives impressive on the tight turns

Highway: I turn toward SOFT 5 clicks/front and half way/back before a 200 miles trip and the car is smooth and ride close to the koni s.t.r.e.t.

Today I try the set with 235/40/18 and I have no rub at full lock front ( no liners) and a bit of rub over big bums AKA speed bums on the rear ( no liners as well).

I still can lower the front at least 2" and 1/2 to 1" on the rear.

Depending on the rims offset and mfct/model of tires with the 235 I suggest rolling the rear fenders.

EDIT: here are the pics, thanks.

Front is at 24 1/2", rears are at 23 1/8" even, with half tank and empty trunk:

[laird]

Hat's off for a thorough write up. You may have spent more time putting this together than the actual install.

[TIZIO AKA 1 HND MEC]

Hat's off for a thorough write up. You may have spent more time putting this together than the actual install.

You nail'it!!!

[Ol' Dirty Noodle]

I see 2 hands...

[NEU]

Very nice write up Tizio! Even better pix! Do you know what the spring rate is on these compared to the D2?

One thing everyone noticed was that the enlink tabs are really beefy compared to the older D2 design. I'd pull the trigger on a set if the rear was a "coil over" set up and make them work with the AWD.

[DScottM]

Hmmm been waiting to see how this turned out.. May have to consider these. You mentioned fit and finish is pretty good. Im guessing you would buy the setup again if doing it over??

[andyb5]

Great write-up Tizio, and thanks for sharing all the pictures with us

[Chilled man]

smallest pictures ever ...

[Zappo]

The DW40 only matters if you live in the land of rust.

You may still have issues with the end link tab. It isn't that it is weak; it is the fact the end links themselves will contact the frame on full lock. If you start to notice worn off the frame directly behind the coils, it is contacting. If you break anything, it won't be in the next few months, and it won't be the tab. It will be a snapped end link bolt, but it would probably be years down the road.

If you went from stock suspension to these, then yes they are stiffer than what you had, but you should still be able to deal with the rough roads relatively well.

[TIZIO AKA 1 HND MEC]

I see 2 hands...

Well one is fake my friend, is helpful when you hug people !!!

Very nice write up Tizio! Even better pix! Do you know what the spring rate is on these compared to the D2?

One thing everyone noticed was that the enlink tabs are really beefy compared to the older D2 design. I'd pull the trigger on a set if the rear was a "coil over" set up and make them work with the AWD.

Front are 5K and rears are 4 k (was standard setup) you can choose from a wide selection from them or other sellers, end links are indeed very beefy!!!

You mentioned fit and finish is REALLY good. Im guessing you would buy the setup again if doing it over??

I would buy'it again for sure Scott!

Great write-up Tizio, and thanks for sharing all the pictures with us

You Welcome Andy!!!

smallest pictures ever ...

They came like that from my small phone, I bet you can fit a Canon D3 with a wide lens under a lowered car and take a better pic, just saying Justin ....

The DW40 only matters if you live in the land of rust.

You may still have issues with the end link tab. It isn't that it is weak; it is the fact the end links themselves will contact the frame on full lock. If you start to notice worn off the frame directly behind the coils, it is contacting. If you break anything, it won't be in the next few months, and it won't be the tab. It will be a snapped end link bolt, but it would probably be years down the road.

If you went from stock suspension to these, then yes they are stiffer than what you had, but you should still be able to deal with the rough roads relatively well.

I checked under the car today, no sign of rubbing (maybe yet), thanks for the head-up Zappo, my previous set-up was stiff to, the roads are the problem after 5 mth of snow.

[Zappo]

My D2's are twice the spring rate of those, but the roads I drive on are relatively smooth.

The contact point will be the closest point from the frame to the coilovers. On my car the repeated contact has hammered a dent in the frame, but it also destroyed the end link on that side of the car. Of course, I was racing the car so it will be different for you.

I would give it a few weeks of driving before you may notice anything though, and hopefully you find no contact at all.

[theForgottenone]

At least the end link tab are on the right location instead of D2, that is a plus.

The top mount seem to be in good quality also.

[Zappo]

No, they are actually in the same position as the D2s.

[Tightmopedman9]

Would this kit work for an 850? I'm not well versed in the differences between the 850 and S70 in terms of suspension setups.

[woah4]

Mine have worked very well, I installed them with the eBay pillow ball mounts also, and I ended up swapping the front springs out for a set of 300lb 8in Afco springs from jegs because the stock TA springs were far to stiff for daily driving, in my opinion. Other than the springs for my uses, the only thing I haven't liked about them is that they have rotted out like crazy. Seriously, it's terrible. And I rust checked them like mad before I installed them. Very disappointing in that regard