Cxracing Coilover Kit Install

[TIZIO AKA 1 HND MEC]

I've got about 1200 miles on mine. Love them so far. Set to about 25% from full soft still handles great

​Glad you make thaa Jump!!!

[blkaplan]

 

You mean the Koni race-insert based ones that are currently unavailable? Or do you mean the JRZ coilovers that are $2200+ for just the fronts, and not available for the rear of a FWD model?

FWD is no problem if you got the $$$   the stuff ain't cheap but it is some of the best shocks you can get.    I'm working on trying to get some better pricing on them so I can reduce the price listings on my website.   

 

 

[timsen]

How are the Cxracing coilovers holding up today?? Thinking about buying a set

[andyb5]

I've got a few thousand miles on mine (front only because I'm AWD) and I'll say I'm pretty impressed so far. 

For a coilover, these are pretty softly sprung and it's actually pretty good for the street. The ride quality at full soft is comparable to stock Sachs struts and OEM springs - firm but still very compliant. At full soft, I'd have no qualms about tossing my mom (who hates sports cars) the keys to my car and having her complain about the ride quality. I'm sure that once I get delrin subframe bushings and fresh control arm bushings ride and handling will only improve.  I'm running the stock front sway bar and there is still a huge reduction in body roll relative to stock. Crank the adjusters to full stiff and it becomes noticeably more aggressive.  I drove to Carlisle with the dampers set 1/4 stiff (8 clicks from soft) and the ride was still very tolerable for 5 hrs on the highway.  

I haven't had a chance to autocross with them yet, but the front end of the car is much more responsive than stock due to the reduction in body roll and deflection in the stock spring seat and strut mount.  From a performance standpoint, I would say my current ride height is set too low to handle well and has screwed up my suspension geometry.  Under hard cornering, the angle of the control arm (due to lowering) is introducing positive camber instead of negative camber like it should. Raising ride height (easy) or a roll center correction kit (no one makes one) would alleviate this and greatly increase grip at the limit.  The ride height is also the source of some funky bump-steer on rough surfaces, which is quite annoying.

My only concern is with longevity; both in terms of damper life before needing to be rebuilt and in terms of corrosion resistance.  There's not much I can do about damper life; but if/when the time comes they can be rebuilt for $75/shock by Feal Suspension. To help improve longevity and to prevent corrosion, I fully disassembled each coilover prior to install and coated each component inside and out with a rust inhibitor (Boeshield T9) and then re-assembled everything once it dried. I'll follow this post up with pictures of the Boeshield process and a further review of why I decided to use it instead of something like white lithium grease or a dry silicone spray.  I am also running Eibach external spring covers to protect the threads on the body of the coilover from road debris and should make routinely cleaning everything much easier. 

For the money, they're a good option but it largely depends on what you're looking to accomplish. KWs or D2s are going to handle much better (higher spring rates, D2s have camber plates) but these are a no-brainer over a strut/lowering spring combo if you're looking for better looks/handling and the ability to customize things a little bit. 

[TIZIO AKA 1 HND MEC]

Glad you enjoy yours Andy, when I gonna be up in CT/Boston I gonna stop by and let you drive mine with the full aggressive setting,  I am sure you can really tell me the difference  ( since my other is a wagon as well ,Stock ).