Boxman Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 While taking apart my car for my long overdue engine swap with a Garrett GT3071R on my 94' 850's B5234T (modified internals), I noticed my OEM Radiator was leaking - I need to replace. I know an all-aluminum radiator has better longevity due to not using plastic reservoirs, though they are a lot more expensive than the OEM Behr radiator (over twice the price), which, in all fairness, did last almost 20 years. My question is rather simple: Is the OEM radiator, performance wise, adequate to cool a 400HP build? Does an all-aluminum radiator actually provide significant performance improvements (as the core of the stock radiator is aluminum as well)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 It's not needed. The stock radiator can handle a lot of heat. However, now might be a worthy time to upgrade so you never have to think about it again. I remember reading that you could use an older mustang aluminum radiator, as long as you didn't need tranny/oil coolers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NEU Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 Try a lower % of coolant or straight water w/Water Wetter type product. It really does help keep the temps down. I never hear my fan run with I have water vs coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 400 crank or wheel ? It's not just the tanks at issue, though. A better aluminum rad will have a deeper core and most importantly, the optimum heat transfer where the tubes attach to the end plates. Howe Racing does a great job. Running just water on a performance build is not ideal since it's the water that will boil around the sleeves creating the air pockets (that cause localized hotspots) that crack the liners.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ConorV70R Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 did you do yours through howe racing? i just looked them up and they are right up the road from me and look like a good option for a better intercooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 I think you're moreso faced with do you want to buy a radiator that has plastic end tanks, capable of leaking... or an all aluminum radiator that is likely to last forever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 did you do yours through howe racing? i just looked them up and they are right up the road from me and look like a good option for a better intercooler. Yes. They would have the spec on file, mine is designed for FMIC - it's too deep a core to fit the stock IC. I didn't know they made IC's also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted November 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Thanks for the replies. I know about the considerations of the plastic end tanks leaking, but like I said, I just want to know if dissipation-wise OEM would be sufficient. I have not seen any actual data of all-alu vs alu-core, hence my question. Seems like OEM will do fine - not sure what was meant by "heat transfer where the tubes attach to the end plates" though. I'm installing a 50MM intercooler replacement, so a thicker rad is not an option. I'll also be using Volvo coolant, i'm not going to put regular water in there at any time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin. Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 I would get the all aluminum radiator if you are going to have the car with a manual transmission. Like others have said no plastic end tanks eliminate failure points. If it was my build, I would do the all aluminum radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Seems like OEM will do fine - not sure what was meant by "heat transfer where the tubes attach to the end plates" though. Heat transfer from the tubes to the end tanks is dependant on the quality of the connection. A poor quality attachment will result in lower heat transfer, which means lower efficiency. Howe makes a point of ensuring theirs meet very high standards. Not true for cheap aftermarket plastic tank rads, and to a lesser extent OEM spec brands. As with any performance build, you want to err on the side of caution, and make sure your components exceed your anticipated needs. Otherwise, you just end up doing things over, I've been there, done that any number of times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VulvaS40T4 Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 I have stock T4 radiator similar size to 850 T5 stock radiator and no problems even with 700hp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted November 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Thanks VulvaS40T4, that's the kind of info I'm looking for @lookforjoe, still not sure what you mean by 'from tubes to the end-tank'. You mean the hose connectors? Heat transfer there seems negligible to me compared to water->core heat transfer. I'm going for OEM replacement though. @Kevin, I get that, but if it's not necessary then I'd rather go with OEM, as I've already got an intercooler upgrade there and a thicker alu rad (full alu seems to be thicker, which is the only way they could have improved cooling) would make that not fit anymore without modifications, or giving up my A/C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 Thanks VulvaS40T4, that's the kind of info I'm looking for anytime you have plastic radiator endtanks that are crimped to a core or fused heater-core vs all aluminium radiator or heater core "hussein ;)" there is MO comparison....and for someone to make a statement " I run 1000 hp on my plastic radiator without any issues" and for someone to reply "tttthats the anwers I am looking for ...well thats just ....lololol...to me.... I know, not what you were looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 I have stock T4 radiator similar size to 850 T5 stock radiator and no problems even with 700hp. Indeed - however you are not running pump gas on a turbo that spools much lower in the rpm band.... I didn't see anywhere the OP mentioned switching to E85. @lookforjoe, still not sure what you mean by 'from tubes to the end-tank'. You mean the hose connectors? Heat transfer there seems negligible to me compared to water->core heat transfer. I'm going for OEM replacement though. . You need to read up on radiator construction if you still don't understand, regardless of your purchase choice. I have limitless patience for my students, people on here who can't do a little research outside a thread, not so much . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 everyone can learn something from mr. miyagi ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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