VulvaS40T4 Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 I have run with this same stock radiator from year 1998->2014 and havent had any problems. Originally i had only 200hp->chipped 230hp->18T 280hp->Masterpower 52/52mm 350hp->HX35 54/60/12# 459hp->HX40 60/65/16# 525hp->HX40 60/65/18# 592hp->HX40 66/68/20# 700hp. So i think i can say you can run with stock radiator without any need for upgrade. I have also run 3 standing miles with 525hp 280km/h, 592hp 292km/h and 666hp 308km/h. On standing mile you run about 30seconds WOT run and they measure speed on 1mile marked 1609m. With current setup with 2.6bar boost and 666hp my coolant temp rised from 86c->92c which is only 6c degrees. If you want to upgrade radiator i think it will be better than stock but is there any need......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 I have run with this same stock radiator from year 1998->2014 and havent had any problems. With current setup with 2.6bar boost and 666hp my coolant temp rised from 86c->92c which is only 6c degrees. If you want to upgrade radiator i think it will be better than stock but is there any need......... That certainly is impressive. I can't see how the coolant flow would be significantly different than on the 5cyl. version. The idea of blowing out a plastic end tank on a hard pull is still enough of a motivator to use all aluminum though. IMO you are tempting fate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VulvaS40T4 Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 Coolant max pressure should be 1.5bar which is limited by coolant expansion tank radiator cap. I havent heard anyone blowing radiator with that low pressure. If engine blows headgasket then it could be possible. With 700hp every WOT pull is a finger crossed situation. But yes aluminium radiator would be better. If it aint broken dont fixit!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 Not sure about the S40 radiators, but the x70 stock radiators have a tendency to split the endtanks wide open. Mine did that when it was idling in the driveway Luckily I caught it and saved my motor, otherwise my bone-stock car would've ruined a motor sitting at idle...! Regardless of coolant types, temps or pressures, I definitely plan on an all-aluminum radiator solely for the peace of mind knowing that it won't decide to split open on a whim. I'd hope people see the wisdom in that as a preventative measure, ignoring any performance benefits of upgrading the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 Yeah, you definitely don't want to leave an x70 running unattended. I've had two cars blow their plastic radiator tanks, my 850 GLT and my V70 base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted November 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 You need to read up on radiator construction if you still don't understand, regardless of your purchase choice. I have limitless patience for my students, people on here who can't do a little research outside a thread, not so much . That's cute Joe. Maybe if you were less ambiguous in your choice of words, people would understand what you mean. If you mean thermal conductivity between the tubes of the core and the radiator's end-tanks, performance-wise that's going to be of minor importance (<9%). Of importance is the amount of surface-area in contact with the flowing hot coolant, ergo mostly the quality of the core itself. As apparently the core of the OEM is adequate, my question has been answered. The end-tanks add just a minor amount of surface area to what the core provides. Also by no means consider me your student though. Thank you VulvaS40T4 for providing some numbers and insight into you build, which is what I was looking for. I feel confident to use a new OEM radiator on my build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 Also by no means consider me your student though. I don't consider or treat anyone on here a student of mine. The reference was simply in terms of repeated questions that simply needed a little outside reading to cover. Clearly you now have that covered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 That's cute Joe. Maybe if you were less ambiguous in your choice of words, people would understand what you mean. If you mean thermal conductivity between the tubes of the core and the radiator's end-tanks, performance-wise that's going to be of minor importance (<9%). Of importance is the amount of surface-area in contact with the flowing hot coolant, ergo mostly the quality of the core itself. As apparently the core of the OEM is adequate, my question has been answered. The end-tanks add just a minor amount of surface area to what the core provides. Also by no means consider me your student though. Thank you VulvaS40T4 for providing some numbers and insight into you build, which is what I was looking for. I feel confident to use a new OEM radiator on my build. just curios with all this knowledge you have now....if both (all aluminum and the one with plastic end-tanks) were the same price , which one would you get ? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fwdGTP Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 How do you blow the plastic end tanks? Does the plastic actually crack? I've lost pretty much every coolant hose at least once either on the street or track but never had an end tank go. I've also killed a couple oil coolers inside the radiator too. I did have one endtank crack on my first 850 I got, but that's because the radiator mounts were broken and it was just laying against the frame and was bound the have some issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 How do you blow the plastic end tanks? Does the plastic actually crack? I've lost pretty much every coolant hose at least once either on the street or track but never had an end tank go. I've also killed a couple oil coolers inside the radiator too. I did have one endtank crack on my first 850 I got, but that's because the radiator mounts were broken and it was just laying against the frame and was bound the have some issue. you dont...they last forever...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 How do you blow the plastic end tanks? Does the plastic actually crack? I've lost pretty much every coolant hose at least once either on the street or track but never had an end tank go. I've also killed a couple oil coolers inside the radiator too. I did have one endtank crack on my first 850 I got, but that's because the radiator mounts were broken and it was just laying against the frame and was bound the have some issue. Radiator end tank split while idling Heater core split while on lunch during autocross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fwdGTP Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 you dont...they last forever...lol "> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 Radiator end tank split while idling Heater core split while on lunch during autocross see there Andy, I bet you wish you have kept both those good old plastic end-tanks cores and used that " fancy nylon heat gluer " to repair those babies pop them tight back in your car and be on your way to a super high HP built? no? lol i know i've made up my mind...I am going back to plastic OEM style radiator and heater core end-tanks... '> http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?195389-Heater-Core-Upgrade-With-Oil-Cooler&highlight=oil+cooler+heater+core '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> i was think going back to that plastic end-tank inter-cooler as well...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 Those radiators develop cracks also... I think the biggest issue with both the plastic and the alu radiators is the way the IC is mounted to it. If mounted to rigid they work on each other causing a plastic end tank to work itself out of the alu clamp seal. An alu radiator will eventually develop a crack somewhere where is flexes the most. My S70 at the time with the Autotech intercooler turned out to be a rad eater because of that. Once it blew a new radiator a couple of days after mounting during a dyno session. Working of the material had pulled it out of the tank clamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 My S70 at the time with the Autotech intercooler turned out to be a rad eater because of that. Once it blew a new radiator a couple of days after mounting during a dyno session. Working of the material had pulled it out of the tank clamp. was your radiator all aluminum construction? if so please post a pic of this cracked all aluminium radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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