German850R Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Hi, fellow Volvospeeders, I thought it's about time I shared a little insight into my current project. . First, let's start with the car itself: 1997 850R M59 Estate (build date 06.12.1996) Dark Olive Pearl Bought in February 2014 with 418000km on the clock, full service history, one owner. Restoration started out with new clutch, all front and rear axle bushings and work has been ongoing since then. This is how the car looks like: I'd say the car has good exterior and good interior. Not like new but almost perfect. The best I have seen so far, to be honest. The previous owner took good care of it. Mods so far: - Motronic 4.4 (thanks to VS and many contributing members!) -> guestimated 290hp, 460Nm at the crank - 320mm genuine Volvo performance front brakes - exhaust modification - Ferrita 3" DP 100cpi - everything else was just repairs/maintenance In November 2014 I wanted to replace the exhaust manifold due to a leak there. Turns out one of the studs was missing but a piece of it remained in the head. Removal with the engine in the car: difficult. So we decided to take the head off -> cracked one bolt. 30mm of bolt still left in the engine block. So, why not take the engine out of the car? After some analysis it was decided to put a new engine in. I manged to source a B5244T3 with head gasked failure for cheap. This is where it started.... The plan is as follows: Engine & drivetrain: B5244T3 bored to 83.38mm and 0,7mm shims 93.2mm crank from B5254T4 Sten Parner 83.32mm forged pistons cxracing 143mm forged H-beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts Glyco main and rod bearings (sputter) B5244T3 head with new exhaust valves, 20 new valve guides, 1 new inlet valve, optimized valve seats, ported exhaust channels VVT delete with machined cam wheel V2A Valve cover with 2 vents added. Will be closed in the beginning to see how it goes N inlet manifold with 960 throttle body RN oil pan with MPRE oil baffles (would prefer stock B5254T4 oil pan, to be honest) FiveOmotorsport 750cc/min injectors 4 bar FPR (to be decided which one) New style R exhaust manifold with EGT probe Turbo: EFR 7064 T3 with internal WG (not purchased yet but seems to be the best package for my goals) DO88 Intercooler with DO88 RIP Sachs 707 clutch with lightened SMF Stock M59 (for a start. Probably M56 with Quaife after all) Ferrita 3" DP with added vband flange and 100cpi cat TME 2,5" catback or KL racing 3" catback. TME is probably more compatible with local law enforcement Bosch 044 or Walbro fuel pump BMW 540i MAF housing with 3D printed adapter flange to fit stock P80 air filter cover Suspension & brakes: KW V3 IPD Track spec ARB AP Racing BBK (Heico branded) On paper that sounds quite nice, I guess. Currently working on the engine, measuring everything, ordering parts etc. The ultimate goal is to generate about 400+ hp and 550+ Nm torque at the crank on 102 octane pump gas or E85. Car should be streetable and the Nürburgring is not far away. Another requirement is 100-200 km/h has to be in the 8-9s range. I will tune the car myself using Tunerpro and the relevant sensors. Might want to go standalone at some point, but first the car has to be up and running again. First engine start will hopefully be in March. Let's see how realistic that is. I have one guy with a small shop in the back of a farm which everything I need which I can use. And I am very lucky to have a very capable engine builder as a friend who builds the engine with me. I really enjoy working with him and it makes the whole build process a satisfying experience so far. It is my first ever build so I might not have the perfect solution for everything. But so far, many people also here on VS have helped me a lot answering some of the questions I had. Thank you for that! Anyway, enough text for today. This thread will be updated as things progress. Feedback and suggestions are always welcome. Some pictures: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piet Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 The exterior really is in an exceptional good state judged by the picture. Sounds like it is going to be a thorough and good rebuild. And.... 3D printing is AWSOME !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
German850R Posted February 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 And.... 3D printing is AWSOME !! Which you will be able to find out in 2 weeks time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod'sT-5 Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Looking good, like the color! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashvolvo Posted February 4, 2015 Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 Looks like a great project! I'm looking forward to reading your updates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 4, 2015 Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 Nice opening post Great looking wagon, I like that green. Keep the pics coming as you go along! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
German850R Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 After the first prototype where 2 critical dimensions were not correct, this one is perfect: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Looks good, but why such a long snout on the outside of the center bolt mount? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
German850R Posted February 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 It was on the drawing that I procured from another member here on VS. I never really thought about it as I focussed on the important dimensions like the exact outside diameter and the diameter for the cam seal. But now that you say it, it could probably be shorter. I guess it is based on the dimensions of the actuator it replaces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 There's a big space at the top of the opening post - was there supposed to be a pic of the intake porting? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 There's a big space at the top of the opening post - was there supposed to be a pic of the intake porting? Just 34 line feeds. Fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdog Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 German850R: am very jealous; been looking for clean green wagon for years; definitely my fav color for these cars. Ended up w/blue one which is nice, but it's not green.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
German850R Posted February 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 News: Got the block back from machining: Then yesterday we attempted to assemble the cx racing rods to the SPM forged pistons. Sounds easy, right? Well, the rods only fitted ever so slightly into the pistons that there was no room for axial compensation. The pistons wouldn't even move. There are several reasons for that: - the pistons have a very narrow gap for the rod to be fitted - the rods are too wide for these pistons - the bores in the pistons are not perfectly aligned as you can see on this picture: So what we did is we machined the rods at their thin end to allow for about 0.6mm clearance in axial direction of the bolt. Of course, the bushing gets damaged doing so, so some rework was required. Ultimately we managed to put everything back together: Maybe we will increase the gap even further, currently doing some research on it. Additional comments on the cx racing rods: - the bushing inserts are very thin. Looks like they are machined from 21mm to 23mm bore (guess) - the material hardness of one rod was much different from the others on one side of the thin end (for the lack of a better term) Quality of SPM (Sten Parner) pistons: - minor marks and scratches from handling visible. Should not be the case but can be reworked - no big deal, just not nice. - bores for the bolt not perfectly executed (they align perfectly but are not "straight"). Rework of the rods took care of that, again: not nice Normally I would ask for new parts from SPM. But I don't want to wait and have all the hassle so I accept what I have and sort it out myself. Another topic: fuel supply I have the 850's fuel line setup with the FPR in the rail. I also have an RN rail available if needed. What would be your recommendation how to set the fuel supply up? I was thinking: - Walbro or Bosch 044 FP - stock lines under the car - at convenient location connect new fuel lines which go to an adjustable FPR (want to run 4 bar), recommendation? FPR to be mounted on the firewall. - connect boost pressure hose to FPR - new fuel lines from FPR to fuel rail. N or RN fuel rail to use? RN rail has a damper built in and no return hose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 Very hard to 'see' the problem with the SP pistons. a Pic with a vernier caliper at each end of the inner casting shoulder would indicate precisely to us the taper of the casting. Either way, that's a real problem. Sounds like the quality of the CX rods further is called into question if there is variation in material hardness from one side of the rod to the other(!). How much end float do stock pistons have on a stock rod? That would be a sufficient guide, no? For the fuel system, since yours in M4.4, doesn't it have the FPR pod down by the PS rack? Or is yours in the fuel rail like M4.3 850's? If it's in the pod underneath, you can just get an adjustable pod from EuroSpecSport (used on VW/Audi also). RN rail has extra orifice underneath, since fuel inlet is under rather than on the end like 870's. 850 rail has very poor ID sizing - get a x70 rail & ideal situation is to get rid of any 90 degree fuel junctions and use radius elbow fittings -weld a bung on the x70 fuel rail (already has the pulse damper where the current FPR would be on a 850) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
German850R Posted February 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 I have the 850 M4.3 rail. I found that it is a challenge to find a capable welder who doesn't charge unrealistic amounts round here so I won't have anything welded to the RN rail. Maybe the Nuke rail is a good option. Thanks for the recommendation of FPR. In terms of the rods/pistons issue: yes we will check the clearance of the stock setup as a guideline. I don't have a better picture atm but look closely at the left side where the bolt exits the bore. There you can see that the bore is not perpendicular to the casting surface. Only on this piston. The piston rings and rod bolts that came with the pistons appear to be of good quality, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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