Ghost Shadow Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 It never gets old how people think Bosch is lesser quality than Blue Box Bosch parts... Must be Bosch's new marketing strategy to make lower quality parts and make higher quality Bosch Blue Box parts... in some instances this is true. Take a Milwalkee cordless drill from Home depot for say $200 Take same model drill same part number from a independant supply house, their cost is $200 and they sell it at $250. Why? Home depot dictates a price point they need to buy at. In order to get Home Depot's business they make a inferior product with less materials inside. Example is the motor inside the home depot unit has 3oz less copper in it than the one that comes from a indy dealer. We know for sure this is true with Walmart. I know for sure this happens on the electronics business. Best Buy has their own SKU's so it cant be price shopped with competitors. Samsung makes specific sku's for best buy and so does many other companies. I dont know enough about Bosch and their business practices to say that this is true with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBrick Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 i've never had an issue replacing with Bosch MAF. Did you disconnect the battery so the ECU can quickly readjust fuel mixtures? I don't know how long it takes the ECU when you don't do that, so I always do. And before you waste the time/money on another MAF, make sure to take out the Idle Control Valve and give it a good clean. A dirty one will totally F up your idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 I doubt your MAF is faulty. I fall into the camp of Bosch = Volvo Blue Box = absolutely no difference. Can you put in a fresh fuel pump relay and see what happens. Low fuel pressure/volume can cause stall-outs just like a bad MAF or vac. leak..... What is your LTFT? I'm guessing you don't have adequate fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3gGT Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 I had previously replaced the fuel pump and relay about 6-8 months ago. I had replaced the vacuum hoses that hook up to the IAC, but I should go back and recheck them. It normally idles fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3gGT Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 I didn't disconnect the battery after installing the MAF sensor, either one of them, but this all started in Dec when my OEM installed MAF sensor went south. At first I thought it was the Crank Position Sensor and replaced it and I couldn't even back out of the drive with this sensor and a new Bosch MAF sensor. I put the original Crank Position Sensor back in at that point. I really need to pull the IAC off and check it...100% rain for the next few days and my wife drives this car. She says the Vette will melt in the rain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3gGT Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Update: I cleaned the IAC yesterday. It didn't look too dirty, but it did seem like the inside mechanism could bounce a bit better. Once I cleaned it with carburetor cleaner, it did have that special rattle to it and would spring back nice and smoothly. I followed some of the instructions I found stating that you could remove the IAC hoses off the Bosch unit without removing the clamps. Nope, I couldn't, the outlet (smaller hose) broke right off. I ordered the OEM one from FCPEuro. Meanwhile, I glued the pipe back together with crazy glue and duct taped it using duct tape that I ripped into half the width of normal duct tape. I could immediately tell a difference in the idle, especially when the A/C is on. It seemed to hold a nice 950 RPM's. Normally that is where the car was more likely to stall, when the A/C was kicking on/off. It would dip really low on the RPM's and stall. I didn't see anymore dipping in RPM's. Even though this problem started when my MAF sensor when south and I replaced it and disconnecting the new MAF sensor connector seemed to fix the stalling problem, at this point I really believe that cleaning the IAC has fixed the problem. Thanks for everyone's help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBrick Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Cool, glad to hear! I went and cleaned mine last week just because, and even though I'm not stalling, my idle is a bit smoother, I can tell. Probably good to clean THE IAC (along with throttle body) once a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3gGT Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 My wife has driven the Volvo the last couple of days and it has not stalled at all. I believe since the ambient temperature now warrants the A/C to be on, it had started stalling on her, prior to cleaning the IAC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3gGT Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 I spoke too soon. My wife drive ~100 miles yesterday and it died twice. I received the new IAC outlet hose yesterday, but I doubt that will have any effect. I'm back to thinking it is the MAF sensor and that some how there is a difference between the Bosch and Bluebox Bosch. All I know is that this started when I installed the Bosch MAF sensor(s). I cleared the codes this past weekend, so I could check for any codes. Unless someone has another idea. 3gGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattyXXL Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Have you check for Vac leaks like was suggested numerous times before? When was the last time you did the PCV and flame trap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Have you check for Vac leaks like was suggested numerous times before?I'll 8th that. It sounds very much like a small-to-medium vac leak. Sometimes the car feels fine, maybe even gets slightly better gas mileage. Other times, the PRM's dive as you come to a stop. You might not notice it, and the rev's will come back up as you ease off the brake and come to a stop. But if you brake hard, it'll stall. I believe the reason it is not consistant as you are used to is that the car's ECU does a good job compensating most of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3gGT Posted March 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 No boost or vacuum gauge built-in, so I would need to tee in some place, probably near the IAC. I'm not sure what the vacuum should be at idle on an N/A engine. It sounds like I should clean a few more things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshdub Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 No, it sounds like you should check for vac leaks. Run a smoke test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Caller Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Considering that a turbo has around 22inHg of vacuum, I guess a N/A should be a little lower or around that value Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBrick Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 have you ever done a stage 0 on your vacuum lines? A cheap but time consuming (couple hours) job that should be done and could help. I did that on both my 850s when I bought them, and they had no vacuum leaks at the time. I used silicone, and never have had strange issues like this ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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