aharres Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 I have a set of 17" team dynamics pro race 1's which I have tried test fitting a few times, but I am having two issues. 1) They will not work with the guide pin in the rotor. However, without the guide pin, the rotor will not be centered on the hub and will be resting on it. 2) The rear hubs have large caps over them which is hitting the inner lip of the wheel where the center cap goes. Do i need the hub cap? I'm sure spacers are the easy answer, but I don't want to run wheel spacers. Is there a way I could persuade the hub cap with a hammer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshV70 Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Remove the guide pin from the rotor - the wheel bolts will keep the rotor in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 How did you get Volvo center caps to fit? Is the center cap area larger on the TDR 1s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Those caps look some of the smaller/older s40 ones. Or maybe I am making this all up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 I run TDR Pro Race 1.2s, I just removed the guide pins, it's only there to keep the hub and rotor lined up for wheel removal/installation. Putting wheels on can be a bit trickier since you can accidentally rotate the rotor and cover the bolt holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob82pigdog Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 You could potentially countersink the guide pin hole in the rotor, then use a flathead screw to hold the rotor on. That way the screw will sit flush and it still helps keep things lined up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshV70 Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Those caps look some of the smaller/older s40 ones. Or maybe I am making this all up. Yep, looks like an S40/V40 centercap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aharres Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 The caps are from a first gen s/v40. I noticed the clips on the team dynamics center caps were similar to the s40 ones. I looked up the diameter, and it was the same as the team dynamics center cap. So what do I do about the rear hub cap? Do I even need it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 I'll have to get myself some nedcar center caps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 I counter sunk the dowel hole on my rotors so that an allen head screw would sit flush. Just because lining up wheel, rotor and hub can be a PITA sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalvin Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Curious, why no spacers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aharres Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Curious, why no spacers? The rear track is intentionally shorter than the front to help reduce understeer and because the suspension allows the wheels to move horizontally quite a bit. I also like how it looks with the wide front grabbing the road. Maybe 10mm won't affect the handling much, but I would like to consider more choices before giving in and getting spacers. I also read having spacers on the front wheels will affect the scrub radius and could potentially mess up the geometry of the front suspension. Although I actually don't know what the offset of my wheels are (either of them) so maybe I would actually need to use spacers. Since I need hub rings to fit these wheels, I think it would be easier to have hub centric spacers with an oversized outer center bore. Does anyone have any knowledge on the effects of having spacers on a fwd car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalvin Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 First off, what are you trying to achieve? Are you trying to keep the exact geometry from the showroom? Not really sure I'll have the knowledge you want but I do have a brief understanding of spacers/adapters/wheel offsets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Changing the offset of the wheel away from stock will change the scrub radius. Putting spacers on will have the same affect as decreasing the wheel offset and thus will make your scrub more positive. However, lowering your car will decrease the scrub radius, so if you want to retain factory suspension specs the two would effectively cancel each other out (depending on size of spacer and amount of lowering). I think that you could benefit from increased negative scrub to help reduce torque steer, so in that mindset you wouldn't want wheel spacers. However, I think that increasing track width would have a greater positive impact than making the scrub radius more negative. Consider all this, you might be forced to space the wheels out, depending on the tire size you choose. BTW, the wheel offset spec is cast into the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZT5 Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Effective net offset is the only thing that matters when it comes to geometry, whether or not the effective offset was achieved with the use of spacers is irrelevant. You seem like you are reasonably well educated on this stuff from a theoretical perspective, so you are probably aware of this already. I ran OEM pegs and 15mm spacers in front and 25mm spacers in the rear with effective offsets of 31mm and 21mm respectively, maybe it had more torque steer, maybe it didn't... I couldn't really tell. The back felt more planted and stable with the spacers, I liked them. The truth is the car handled and felt like a FWD Volvo regardless of whether or not the spacers were installed, but aesthetically it made a night and day difference so I stuck with the lower offsets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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