Seaway Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Car has been been running great on an ARD Green Tune with boost consistent at 16 -17 psi. Two days ago I had a boost spike to about 22 psi, it was the first time I have had a boost spike running this tune. After that spike I am now only hitting 10psi at WOT. No smoke, nothing obviously wrong and the boost holds steady at 10psi.I swapped my TCV with a known good one, reset the ECU and there was no change. Still boosts only to 10 psi and holds there. I have no codes, I did not see any loose vacuum hoses (all are silicone) or charge/intercooler hoses (also silicone). I rebuilt my 16t turbo under 1000 miles ago and installed a new CBV. After the rebuild the car ran great and always hit the targeted boost until this problem arose.Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burn-E Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Check your vacuum tree to see if cap popped off. If after you do all the obvious it's still happening I'll simply add that this is not an isolated situation with ARD Green tunes. It could be the ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Check your vacuum tree to see if cap popped off. If after you do all the obvious it's still happening I'll simply add that this is not an isolated situation with ARD Green tunes. It could be the ECU.I will double check the vacuum tree. I guess I can swap in my stock ECU in and see what results that yields. I have been thinking about a new tune anyway...What are the issues with the ARD Green? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loseR99 Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Seeing as you mentioned having replaced the CBV 1000 miles ago with the turbo rebuild, i'd look there. You said boost was fine and consistent until the spike event, which you saw 22psi, a stock cbv on a 16T probably isn't up to the task of diverting that much pressure and it may have a rupture. Did you upgrade the CBV or use a mitsubishi rebuild kit? Also with Burn-E, check the obvious. Charge pipe leaks, IAC hose, vac/boost tubing, vac tree...I realize you mentioned not "seeing" any noticeable hose leaks, but unless the system is pressurized you won't see a pinhole leak or tear. I've had small leaks in the past that still showed normal vacuum on my gauge, only under boost was it leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 I used the the mitsubishi rebuild kit on the CBV. If it is torn, will it simply bleed pressure off? Would the torn CBV still be able to hold an amount of boost (in this case the steady 10 psi)? I simply went through all of the vacuum hoses and the hose clamp connections for the intercooler hoses. I will start it up and try spraying some soapy water and see if I can see anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Aha I see you have a thread here too, good idea. Yes, a torn CBV will translate to a steady boost leak, all boost shifted downward, like what you observe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted April 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Aha I see you have a thread here too, good idea. Yes, a torn CBV will translate to a steady boost leak, all boost shifted downward, like what you observe.I like to try to cover my bases, so I thought I would ask all over the internet. I have yet to get a response from the knitting site I frequent, but you never know. Sometimes those older retired ladies have the answers. My priest told me to say three Hail Mary's and then pressure test the CBV. His advice has always been spot on.Knowing that a torn CBV will present itself with the symptoms I am seeing helps a great deal, so thanks very much. The new whistling noise I am hearing today leads me to believe air is being pushed or pulled out of something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loseR99 Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 I'm dealing with a similar issue on an ARD tune but with boost heading the other direction. That is why I said CBV. Apparently on mine, 01' T5, with the ETM the engine/turbo experience "run-on" or throttle hang, where between shifts the throttle plate stays open past the shift point and I get some boost creep. If i'm under WOT it will run right past the tune's designated 18psi and i've seen as high as 25-27psi spikes between shifts! I will be replacing mine with a piston style dump valve like the Forge motorsport CBV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted April 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 I may have to look into something like that as well. I don't want to modify the car too much, I just want it to be a solid runner. That is why, even though it has a 2.4L HPT motor from a 2000 R, I didn't rebuild the turbo as a 19T. 16T is plenty fast and I am trying not to push things too hard. From the reading I did before rebuilding the turbo I would have thought the stock 16T CBV would hold up, but I guess that may not be the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted April 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 I checked the CBV with a vacuum pump and it does not hold vacuum at all. I have another turbo laying around and I checked it the same way and it held vacuum fine. So it looks like I will be swapping out the cbv this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 I swapped in a different CBV and a different CBV cover and I have the exact same results. Now I apply vacuum with a hand pump it leaks down to about 7psi and then holds there. With he ARD tune it still hits 10psi and holds and the stock T5 ecu hits 7 psi and holds. I tightened EVERY hose clamp on the car so there should be no leaks from clamps. I suppose it could be a hole in a hose? The only hose associated with the turbo that is not a new Mishimoto hose is the couple from the OTE pipe to the turbo. Maybe it's the intercooler? How do I pressure test it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 Update: I disconnected the wastegate hose at the TCV and still cannot boost past 10 psi. Should I redo the CBV and make sure that it holds vaccum? When I insert the CBV diaphragm and spring, should the spring be compressed and in the "locked" position (held in compression by the plastic cap thingy)? I did not install it that way when I redid it the other night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loseR99 Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 The CBV plastic cap end should snap in place and the spring should be compressed when installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 The CBV plastic cap end should snap in place and the spring should be compressed when installed. Ha! That is pretty funny. It was late when I installed it. Twice. The first time the CBV cover was noticeably warped and it held no vacuum at all so I removed it and did it again. Looks like I goofed the second time too. The upside is I am now very good at removing and replacing it. I bet I can get it done this time in 30 minutes. For grins I guess I will go ahead and install it correctly... what an idiot.Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 Fixed. Put in a third cbv, swapped out the short hose between the ote pipe and the turbo, and put in a new hose from the cbv to the manifold. Boosted like it should and held like it should.Thanks for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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