2000 V40 Hard start, bad camshaft position code, replaced timing belt

[Vincent L]

Girlfriend's 2000 V40 was throwing Bad Camshaft Position Code (timing advanced) also starts hard (have to hold key for ~10sec sometimes). (Also throwing P1618 and P0705 tranny codes)

Car has 112k miles on it, and b/c the timing belt had never been replaced, I started there in lieu of the sensor itself (as it's $250 to have the sensor replaced, and I had the T-Belt done for only $425, which needed to be done anyway).

Also, and I know this is bade news, she was WAY late on her last oil change, I think it might have been upwards of 8k miles. It was so bad that I stripped the hex bolt on the oil pan that drains it. When I checked the dip stick, I ended up having to add just over 3 quarts of oil to get it to show correctly on the markings. (Which is concerning considering that that's over half of the 5.5 quarts it should have had).

So, what else might be causing this? And if it's oil sludging, can that be fixed w/o physically disassembling the engine (ie with some type of solvent oil additive?)

Finally, less expensive source for Camshaft Position Sensor? (Is this valid for the 2000 year? http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Volvo/2000/V40/Camshaft-position-sensor/1118043/30713370.html it comes up when you search for parts for a 2000 v40, but it says 2002 and upwards...)

[Ihatespeedbumps]

So the cam position fault was present before and after the timing belt replacement? Could be a few things causing that, I would verify my timing marks before doing anything else. Hard start could be caused by a fault fuel pressure regulator, pretty common issue on this model. Pull the vacuum line off the intake and see if any raw fuel comes out, if so you know you've got a bad one.

[Fran9690]

I've seen sludge clog up the ports to the vvt solenoid and hub, causing similar hard start issues. I've seen where the sludge was so bad that after replacement of the solenoid and hub, the CEL returned with the same code because the ports in the head were clogged. Lack of maintenance can cause some big head aches. 

 

But as stated above, verify timing marks are correct. Regulator also causes hard start issues, but I've never seen it take 10 seconds to start, usually just smokes out the tailpipe because of the raw fuel from it leaking past the diaphragm. 

[theForgottenone]

If you put key in the ignition, wait for 3 seconds before turning it over and it start right up, that is fpr.

 

you can try to replace the vvt gasket to see that help. I would try to do an oil flush with some solvent or seamfoam

[Vincent L]

So the cam position fault was present before and after the timing belt replacement? Could be a few things causing that, I would verify my timing marks before doing anything else. Hard start could be caused by a fault fuel pressure regulator, pretty common issue on this model. Pull the vacuum line off the intake and see if any raw fuel comes out, if so you know you've got a bad one.

 Yes, the P0014 code was present before and after replacement. The t belt was replaced by a shop I trust, so I doubt it's the timing. I'm going to remove and Chan the CVVT solenoid. Does the gasket really *have* to be replaced? At least can it be re-used to diagnose the problem and then be replaced if it's identified as the issue?

@Theforgottenone Also, how does one go about  doing an oil flush?

[Fran9690]

Gasket needs to be replaced. A lot of the times, it'll come apart when you separate the solenoid from the cam cover. If by some reason, it stays in one piece and you attempt to reuse it, it will more than likely leak upon reinstall. Spend the $3 or whatever and get a new gasket. A new vvt solenoid usually comes with it anyways.

[theForgottenone]

You can use the oil flush solvent of your choice. Out it in and drive for ~ 100 miles or less the then change the oil immediately.

[Vincent L]

Thank you for all of the replies. I have not had a chance to do anything yet. But it seems that changing the T-Belt did help some. The check engine light had not gone off AT ALL since we've owned the car (~1.5 years). It has now been going off intermittently, so I'm crossing my fingers that when the CVVT gasket comes and I can do that, that it will stay off completely.