hankbates Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 Car has 146k, yellow ETM installed at end of warranty by Volvo about 5 years ago. It has been idling rough intermittently for a few months after I replaced the failing bosch MAF with an aftermarket which doesn't throw any codes.Yesterday when in a shopping center, it started up with very rough idle, so I turned it off. When I restarted, it had a very smooth idle but no response to accelerator pressure. Restarting 3 or 4 times and disconnecting/reconnecting battery had no effect.I looked in the user manual under fuses and saw that fuse 8 in the engine compartment services both the ac compressor and the accelerator pedal position sensor, so I restarted and turned on the AC and it blew warm air, no compressor running. Pulled the fuse, saw it was good, and was disappointed, but I pushed it back in and tried again. Started, ran fine, went home with no issues.It appeared to me then that corrosion on the fuse contacts may well have been the issue, so I pulled the fuse, sprayed some deoxit d5 on it, and put it back in. I have used deoxit on control panel contacts, even a light switch in a desk lamp, with good results.I realize I may need to replace the ETM (or rebuild it), but I would like to delay putting more money into it. Transmission still mostly ok after flush 5k miles ago. Anyone with similar experience? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertone262coupe Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 hello my car was doing kinda the same thing i have a 2001 v70 t5 it was the throttle it was kinda expensive and it threw no codes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankbates Posted July 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 After pulling the 10A fuse for the accelerator pedal + ac compressor, spraying with deoxit, there was some improvement but still a lot of stumbling at idle.Next to this fuse was a 10A for the etm; after the same treatment the car now idles well and is much easier to drive. It appears to me that there was enough resistance in the fuse contacts to interfere with the etm's ability to move the shaft. If the problem comes back soon, I will post an update.Deoxit has now resurrected a desk lamp switch (I was going to throw the lamp out), the control panel switches on my Hottop coffee roaster ($200 for a new panel) and now it is keeping a $500 Volvo ETM going. If it acts up again, the next step will be to use it on the wiring connector. Thinking back to when I replaced the PNP switch on my 96, it probably would have worked there too..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankbates Posted August 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 A more thorough cleaning of the MAF sensor was also needed to restore "normal" driveability. My problems probably have been caused by several weaknesses: Corrosion on fuse contacts, aging ETM, and a fouled aftermarket MAF sensor. It was so much easier when cars were much less complicated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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