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Sounds like a pretty good set up to me!  What's your feelings on the r manifold and h&r's?

 

i can't say for sure, as I'm still getting my car tuned for it, so I'm saving all reviews until tuning is complete 

 

my current set up is:

Manual boost controller I'm gonna run in line with my ipd tcv, sas and rear o2 delete, snabb intake pipe, msd ignition coil, ipd front and rear sways and hd endlinks, an intake manifold spacer, ipd turboback exhaust with a gutted cat, a RIP kit, green injectors, 19t, ARDs lightweight pulley, a bigger MAF sensor housing, a gates racing timing belt, a strut tower brace, an oil catch can, damn near all hoses converted to silicone.  I've still got an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, high flow fuel pump, and of course the water/meth to install.

 

i think I might have a problem lnfao

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The R manifold was on the car when I got it, so I don't have anything to compare it to. The H&Rs are good. Firm, but they certainly help with the handling. I can't wait to get the rear IPD sway bar on to hopefully take out the rest of the body roll. I have an IPD strut brace as well, and it made a really nice difference in the ride. Quieted a lot of rattles and tightened things up way more than I thought it would.

Sounds like your car is going to be nice. I would love to take mine that far, but I really need a reliable but fun daily driver. I don't want to blow things up. But I wouldn't mind of it was faster...  

I am still waiting to hear back from ARD, hopefully they will have some insight. 

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I like the lowered look and feel, but the bumps can be a little rough. I had a 98 V70 GLT that was stock and felt like driving a loaf of bread compared to this current car. The only difference is the springs as I am still running the stock shocks and struts. 

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Yeah i think I've heard of people saying the h&r's were a little rough.  I'm not sure if my shocks/struts/springs have ever been changed before, but right now my car is similar to a car with hydraulics when I go over bumps (exaggerating)

 

I'm not sure if I want the FSD's which I've heard great things about, or spend about the same for some coilovers and have adjustability 

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When I get around to the suspension I will likely go with Koni yellows and the H&R springs. I have heard nothing but good things about them and if I am going to spend, I might as well spend a lot. I put the ARD tune back in and it is terrible compared to stock. I am tempted to buy the IPD tune from you. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE:  Swapped out the old engine coolant temp sensor with a new Volvo part and also put in a new thermostat while I was in there.  I need to drive it a bit more to actually see what is going on, but my initial thought/feel is that it is not much faster.  It runs great, but it is not where it used to be.  The car did start much more easily this morning, so changing the ECT sensor was definitely worth it.  It is also worth it to me to have a baseline from which to troubleshoot.

I spoke to the people at ARD and they were very helpful.  They were more than willing to check out the ECU for me and they looked up the original programming (I bought it used) and let me know that it should be very compatible with my current set up, which is good to know.

Next step may be a professional rebuild of a 16T CHRA I have and then installing that.  Maybe the one I rebuilt is not up to spec and is not working properly?  I really just feels like the turbo is slow to spool.  It used to feel as though it pulled hard and was surprisingly fast once the boost hit, but now it feels less in your face.  I wish I could explain it better.

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I hope it's something as simple as something in the tune itself.  

Its hard to think I what may be causing this.  When I was closer to stock runnin the ipd tune, I was able to walk a newer (2008?) Daytona charger, and this was with a not yet found boost leak (which ended up being about a 2 inch tear in the intercooler pipes, where the iac hose branches off the throttle body hose). With a boost leak that substantial, I was still able to outrun a v8 from about 60-100mph.

i forget, have you checked the wastegate?  I'm sure you have (probably one of the first things you check)

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I hope it's something as simple as something in the tune itself.  

Its hard to think I what may be causing this.  When I was closer to stock runnin the ipd tune, I was able to walk a newer (2008?) Daytona charger, and this was with a not yet found boost leak (which ended up being about a 2 inch tear in the intercooler pipes, where the iac hose branches off the throttle body hose). With a boost leak that substantial, I was still able to outrun a v8 from about 60-100mph.

i forget, have you checked the wastegate?  I'm sure you have (probably one of the first things you check)

Yeah, I am starting to run out of things to check.  I have checked that the wastegate is operating, but maybe it is not fully seated?  How do I easily check that?  I have not checked the pressure it opens at either.  Basically it is set so the arm drops over the actuator easily.  If it is something as easy as the wastegate, I would be thrilled.  It seems like that is a likely culprit as it is slow to build boost and down on power in the middle of the rpm range.  So, in short, maybe I really haven't checked the wastegate as well as I should have.  Any links to procedures on how to make sure it is working right?

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Pretty much connect the wastegate line to an air source (I just connect to my front left tire) with a gauge and an adjustable regulator in the line somewhere.  Once it's all connected, start with the regulator closed, and slowly open it up.  Watch the gauge, and the moment you see the wastegate arm move, that's where you're at.  I could be wrong here, but I think you should wanna be at around 4 psi.

I know the cars with the conical flange turbo/downpipe, the wastegate can "unseat" itself.  This is cured easily by hammering down where the arm connects to.  I'm not too sure about our straight flanged turbos, but it's easy to check.  Where the wastegate arm actually goes down into the exhaust housing, everything should be level with each other.  When it unseats, the arm will rise up (not much, but noticeably).  I'd look at some pictures carefully of the 16t as I could be wrong, and compare to what yours looks like.  It's an easy fix however, nothing needs to be removed from the car

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Okay, so there really isn't that much to it.  I actually have an angled flange turbo going into a 1999 angled downpipe, not the stock straight flange, not that that probably changes anything.  I will take a look at my turbo this evening and see if I can see anything amiss.  

I went to lunch with a coworker today and had to merge in a pretty short distance so I floored it in 2nd gear.  He grabbed the door and laughed while saying "jesus christ" so maybe my butt dyno is off a bit.  It does feel better than it did before I changed the ECT sensor.  Maybe I just need a bigger turbo...

 

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Checked the wastegate and it seems to be fine.  It has no up and down play and moves freely.  I am at a bit of a loss as to what to do next.   I guess send the ecu back to ARD and have it checked out.  Maybe I need to find someone around here to drive my car and see what they think needs to be done.  I am getting frustrated at this point. 

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I may have finally solved this.  I redid my wastegate settings and the car actually seems to perform as it should.  Boost comes on when it should and how it should.  Holds 17psi at WOT and feels right.  I think I had the wastegate too tight, then too loose, but now it feels good.  There may be a 1/4 turn of tinkering left to do, but I am happy with how it is performing as of right now.

Thanks Wesdunn for all of your help.  If you ever get down to DC I will buy you a beer.  

 

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I may have finally solved this.  I redid my wastegate settings and the car actually seems to perform as it should.  Boost comes on when it should and how it should.  Holds 17psi at WOT and feels right.  I think I had the wastegate too tight, then too loose, but now it feels good.  There may be a 1/4 turn of tinkering left to do, but I am happy with how it is performing as of right now.

Thanks Wesdunn for all of your help.  If you ever get down to DC I will buy you a beer.  

 

Are you just adjusting it and driving it?  Did you set the WGA pre-load?

If you haven't seen this, watch the vid; Lucky actually explains it quite well...   @ about 3:40 he shows you how to set the pre-load..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShldMVI2_cI

 

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