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P0014


1999MyC70

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I am a new owner of a 1999 C70 Convertible with 97k miles. I changed the timing belt doing it by the book, it all went smoothly as can be expected.  Then after a couple of starts I got the P0014 code so I went and rechecked the timing marks and they are dead on I am at a loss do I pull and check the CVVT Solenoid or is there something else I can check.  Thanks! 

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The cam might have shifted inside the VVT hub, so while the marks still line up, the cam could be in the wrong orientation than it should be. If the light and code only came on after t-belt and it wasn't on before, I'm inclined to think that's what happened.

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The cam might have shifted inside the VVT hub, so while the marks still line up, the cam could be in the wrong orientation than it should be. If the light and code only came on after t-belt and it wasn't on before, I'm inclined to think that's what happened.

So how do I fix the problem?  Thanks for the reply's

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Cam hub should be locked to the full clockwise position before you put the belt on. When the belt is off, you will be able to rotate back and forth a few degrees on the cam with the vvt hub. If the timing marks do not line up with the hub fully clockwise, then you know the cam shifted inside the hub. You would need cam lock tools to properly get the cams oriented and prevent the cam from shifting again while doing the t-belt replacement. 

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Cam hub should be locked to the full clockwise position before you put the belt on. When the belt is off, you will be able to rotate back and forth a few degrees on the cam with the vvt hub. If the timing marks do not line up with the hub fully clockwise, then you know the cam shifted inside the hub. You would need cam lock tools to properly get the cams oriented and prevent the cam from shifting again while doing the t-belt replacement. 

Thanks again, looks like I am in for lots more work, from the looks of it I will have to support the engine and remove the top mount and other items to get to the rear of the cams while awaiting for the alignment tool to come in. 

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That top mount isn't weight bearing, it's more for longitudinal (forward and back) movement of the engine under load. Most of the p80s I see the rubber bushing is completely torn. Anyway, no need to support the motor when you remove it. 

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Were you just doing a routine t-belt or did you remove the hub for some reason? Can't say I've ever seen a cam shift inside the VVT hub unless the center bolt was loosened. No need to lock the cams from the rear for a routine t-belt change.

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Were you just doing a routine t-belt or did you remove the hub for some reason? Can't say I've ever seen a cam shift inside the VVT hub unless the center bolt was loosened. No need to lock the cams from the rear for a routine t-belt change.

Afaik the cams need to be locked for a p80 VVT timing belt change. Otherwise it's near impossible to counterhold the spring loaded vvt gear while you put the belt on. How do you do it without locking the cams?

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Afaik the cams need to be locked for a p80 VVT timing belt change. Otherwise it's near impossible to counterhold the spring loaded vvt gear while you put the belt on. How do you do it without locking the cams?

No real difference between a P80 car with VVT and a P2 car with VVT, except the newer P2's have dual VVT. Routine T-belt procedure is the same and can be done a couple of ways. I find either way about the same, although some techs prefer #2

1) The motor can be turned clockwise by hand until you reach TDC (marks lined up) and then take the belt off. Doing it this way, yes, the VVT hub (on the exhaust cam) will turn back ccw about 2 teeth when the belt is removed. When installing the belt you will need to turn the hub cw ( yes, it's spring loaded) by hand until the mark lines up before installing the belt.

2) The motor can be turned clockwise past TDC and then backed up until the timing marks are aligned. This way when the belt is removed the VVT hub (on the exhaust cam) is no longer spring loaded and will not move. Simply line up all of the marks and install the belt.

If the VVT hub has never been removed from the cam, ALL you care about when changing a t-belt is the timing marks, not the cams position. The cam will not "shift" inside the hub.

With that said, I always check to make sure that the timing marks were lined up properly BEFORE removing the old belt. If some butcher has worked on the car before me, and taken the hub off at some point, then the timing could be whacked. Only thing to do in that case is start from the beginning and that would require locking the cams...

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I've had trouble getting the camshaft not to spin in the upper cover without using a locking tool. I've never had an issue with the cam spinning without the sprocket (not really sure how that would happen), but I have had the entire camshaft rotate when I try to adjust the spring loaded exhaust cam gear to proper timing. For that, I had to use a locking tool to hold the rear of the cam in place while I loaded up the sprocket and slipped the belt over. The second method seems like a viable alternative, but it still depends on having the intake cam advanced just enough to match the exhaust cam when the belt is rotated ccw and the exhaust gear takes up the slack. Even then, I'd want a holding tool to be sure the camshaft itself was held rigid while only the sprocket rotated. Have any other users timed a vvt car without the holding tool? 

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The second method seems like a viable alternative, but it still depends on having the intake cam advanced just enough to match the exhaust cam when the belt is rotated ccw and the exhaust gear takes up the slack.  

No need to advance any cam to match the other cam. You might be over thinking it. Line up the marks on the gears with the marks on the cover. That's all there is to it. Never ever had to lock the cams just to replace a t-belt. Other than maybe a B230F, these are probably one of the easiest t-belts to replace...

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Sorry for the delay in answering, I had a family emergency to deal with, things are ok.  Just to give a history, I watched a bunch of video's and the forums and I lined up all three timing marks pulled the belt, water pump. idler and tensioner then put everything back together. I test drove the car and had one hard to start episode then the CEL came on I have a checker that's when I saw the P0014 code. So I pulled the car back in the garage and checked the timing marks and they are still spot on.  Monday when I get a day off I think I will pull the belt off and check the VVT pulley and see if it will move clock wise or not.

I consider myself an above average shade tree auto mechanic, I have changed the ETM and had it rebuilt by XeModex with no problems.  I have changed timing belts and chains on different engines just never came upon this problem before.  And I listen and watch the videos that ppl on these forums suggest.  Someone suggested a video on the VVT cam hub removal and I watched it several times and I see the relevance. Now the big question if my cam gear goes easy for a few degrees which I suspect what is the fix?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The C70 is fixed, it was a simple problem, I wasn't getting the tensioner tight enough and it would slip a notch or two. I took it to Carl Dukes in Fort Collins CO. Thanks for the help and I did learn a lot.  Now when the parts come in I will be replacing the overflow bottle and level sensor.  The guys at Dukes also noticed the front strut mounting bushings are worn, Looks like another project to get done.

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