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Transverse Arm Bolt removal?


Seaway

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I tried to loosen the nut for the transverse arm mounting bolt in order to install the IPD rear sway bar and the bolt broke.  I have new bolts, but I can't seem to get the old bolt out of the hole.  I am able to turn it with a ratchet and it will unscrew about half an inch and then it stops and just spins.  I tried to use a punch to get it out, but it doesn't move that way either.  It doesn't seem as if the mounting holes are threaded, but maybe I am wrong?  Anyone had this problem before?  Could it just be corrosion due to the dissimilar metals in the transverse arm?

I don't want to move forward with installing the sway bar because I am afraid if I try to loosen the other transverse arm bolt and it breaks and I can't remove it, I will be stuck.  

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First time you've installed the rear swaybar?  If it's the bolt(s) I'm thinking of, they're not threaded into the block; you just have to drive them out.  post a picture to be sure..

Squirt some BreakAway or similar on there and hit it harder; may have to loosen other bolts.  The front sway is almost easier than the rear..  :blink:

Once you've done it once or twice it becomes a lot easier..!

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Yes, first sway bar I have installed.  It is one of the two bolts used to adjust the rear toe in - they go through the delta link bushings.  I am going to get a bigger hammer and drive the bolt out.  My fear was breaking something other than just the bolt.  I douched the whole area in PB Blaster last night again and will continue that regimen until I can get this done over the weekend.  

I am just going to run the rear IPD bar for now.  If I don't like it, I will put in the front one as well.  Today I am replacing the control arms, yesterday I did new rotors up front as well as new front and upper engine mounts.  This is all in preparation for a 19T swap coming in a few weeks, I hope.  I have all the parts, I just need to find all the time.

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sorry in advance, but just can't resist..  it's hammer-time!!

Never pass up an excuse to buy a new tool, man!

Joking aside, let your budget be your guide (spouses tend to have input on this topic too for some reason..?)  I am sure you could get by w/o it for this job, but I am also sure you will use it for other jobs too in the future..

I am an ex-tech so I got all these pneumatic tools sitting around collecting dust, therefore i never pass up a chance to break them out when i can use them.  Working on cars is difficult enough IMO; w/o pwr tools it's just a PITA... to each his own..

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Ha! No spouse, so no problems there, and the dog doesn't seem to care what kind of tools I buy.  My son will probably shake his head at me, but he hardly even comments on the car parts on the dining room table anymore.

I actually just got a bigger compressor last week so I may pick one of these up.  Removing lug nuts is a couple seconds has changed my life.  The cost on these isn't bad either, I figure I would pay at least twice that to have someone remove the bolt, so it's probably worth it.  Would you recommend one with the quick release chuck? Any idea what size punch to get?  The bolt head is 14mm.

 

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Well I bought the air hammer so now I am prepped to try to get the broken bolt out of the hole.  

The car is currently at the mechanic because for the life of me I could not get the pinch bolt loose when trying to remove the passenger side control arm.  I tried everything I could think of short of removing the axle and cutting the bolt with a cutoff wheel.  I didn't have the air hammer yet, so I wasn't able to try that.  Finally buttoned it back up after a neighbor lady complained about the noise (my garage is in an alley across from a recently gentrified apartment building. I got no complaints ever when it was a low rent slum...).  It was late so I called it a night.  

UPDATE:  Mechanic got the bolt out using a zip wheel - $40 later the passenger side control arm is in!

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No opinion on the quick release chuck; mine's got the old style spring retainer.  Just get a name brand; CP (that's chicago pneumatic, not china pneumatic) or IR are good.  Need three attachments IMO; drift for pushing out frozen bolts (like that pinch bolt in the LCA ball joint fitting), and two sized pickle forks; larger one for ball joints, and a smaller one for tie-rod ends.  Note: you will destroy the boots when using the pickle forks so only do that if you're replacing the part w/new.  But instead of banging on the old ones with hammers and what not, you'll have it off in seconds.

Yeah, they're noisy; wear hearing and eye protection!  But I use them so infrequently it's usually not an issue; and you'll only be operating it for a few seconds.  My garage is insulated so if i close the door, I can get pretty loud before I disturb the neighbors..

Not hip to that zip-wheel jive..?  You mean a cut-off wheel on a die-grinder?  What did he cut?  :huh:

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I got the hammer you posted. Had good reviews everywhere I looked. I also got two drifts and three other attachments. I will have to get pickle forks at some later date. 

Yeah, cut off wheel on the die grinder. He cut most of the nut off, whacked the remainder with a chisel, and used a punch to get the bolt out. Took him as long as it just took me to write that all down. 

I am going to tackle the sway bar later today.  I will report my success when I am all done. Third time being the charm and all that. 

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The air hammer worked so well I wish I had other stuck bolts. Since it was such a success I got the sway bar in too. It was a huge pain in the ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD, but it was worth it. Thanks gdog for all your help! 

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