Seaway Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 The saga continues... I have a vibration only under hard acceleration which I can feel in the steering wheel and floor. If I let off the gas, the vibration stops. I have replaced the outer tie rods, and the control arms and the car has been aligned and tires balanced. It certainly seems to be a cv axle issue. I installed a passenger side cv axle from NAPA about 2000 miles ago and I am not sure the age of the driver side, or if it is original or aftermarket. Boots on the driver's side axle are fine with no tears or grease leaking out. How do I determine which axle is bad without removing them? I assume it is the drivers side, but don't want to rule out a bad passenger axle even though it is newer. And does the axle need to be specific to a manual transmission? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NEU Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 Could be wheel bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 I thought about that as well. How do I check that? There is no noise coming from anywhere, no clicks, clunks or grinding noises. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NEU Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 They get a lot of play, like a bad tierod when they are really bad and you can also get vibration. If they have over 100K mile they are due for a change soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 I just did the tie rod ends and control arms and had the car aligned. After installing the tie rod ends, there was no play in the wheels when I moved them back and forth by hand. Wouldn't there have been some if the bearings were bad? Would the vibration caused by the wheel bearings go away after a certain RPM? Under heavy acceleration I get the vibration between about 3,000 RPM (maybe a bit sooner) and about 4,500 RPM. After that it goes away. I get no vibration at all with the car in neutral. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H0lD mY d6InK Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 A bad Wheel bearing will give you a humming noise when turning in a direction at first. When it gets worse it will hum and then start making much more noise. I just replaced both my wheel bearings because my front right went out on me (started humming when making left turns only, then it just started making humming and grinding noises when it got really bad).Bad cv axle is indicated by grinding when you turn. So no noise at all? No resent work done to the car to start you off in a direction? I could throw you ideas lol.Could a major component to something as simple as a bolt isn't tight enough to give you just a tad of wiggle at a certain speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Vexed Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 hey dude, it's ABSOLUTELY your napa axle(s).how do i know?? because my wheel bearings made NO noise before swapping out to NAPA axles and now it *sounds like wheel bearings, but it's actually the axles.my tech lifted the car and pulled the passenger side and SHOWED me the play in it that causes the vibration/sound. he says he sees it all the time in aftermarket axles (esp napa).i know volvo axles are expensive, but they're worth it. i personally hate the noise these axles make, but i could buy 2 sets of napa with what 1 side a volvo costs lol.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 I just drove the car on a smooth road and it makes a humming noise as the car is turned left (sweeping turn @ about 45 mph) while coasting and not using the throttle. There is no creaking, groaning or popping at any speeds no matter how hard over the wheels are turned in either direction. The noise seems to come from the left front, but it is hard to tell. The vibration does not present itself until the rpms are brought up quickly. For example, I left my work and shifted up through 1st and 2nd, never getting over 3000 rpm's and then I floored it up a hill and the vibration begins. After that, it is present basically through the RPM range regardless of throttle input and can be felt through the steering wheel and the seat. To check the axles it sounds like I can just get under the car and try to twist them by hand, correct? Any play in the axle while it is connected to the hub is bad, from what I gather?And $415 for a Volvo axle is a tough pill to swallow. I may be getting close to being done with this car. I don't have the patience or the inclination to replace every major component. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 I've never had an issue with rebuilt axles from oreillys, there also only like $45 with a core. Also I would rotate the wheels just to be sure there not the cause even though you just got them balanced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 It is definitely not the wheels. They were balance and rotated and the vibration stays in the same area. Seems to come from the driver's side at the front of the car. There is no O'Reilly's in my neck of the woods, either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H0lD mY d6InK Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 I have an O Reilly's axle on one side. Doing just fine and for the lifetime warranty, I am happy. Best thing to do if you have the time is to send an original Volvo axle to raxles.com and he will rebuild them good as new for about 200$.Last time I spoke to him he said he doesn't have any Volvo axle's left, so you have to get him one. Like I said, must be an original Volvo axle, or he won't touch it (for good reason). Aftermarket axle's are known to be not as good as original.How would you describe the noise when you hear it? I read you said it sounds like it is coming from the front left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaway Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 I would describe it as a cyclical hum. Speed dependent. I can also feel it a bit when the car is turning.The vibration is just that. It vibrates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 I also had quality issues with aftermarket axles. After several replacements, I opted to buy used OEM axles from v & s auto dismantlers. You can also try erie vovo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csmartz Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 I had the same exact problem with aftermarket axles. Two different brands from O'Reillys, one from Autozone, and one from a (possibly local?) place called Discount Import Auto here in Portland, OR. I would definitely recommend going OEM with cv axles... You can find rebuilt OEM axles on fcpeuro.com for 70$ a pop plus a core charge of $75. Even if you don't send your cores back, $150 for an axle isn't half bad. The cores don't have to be OEM either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H0lD mY d6InK Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 Nothing wrong with FCP, but I would only use them to buy a new volvo axle. You are taking a gamble with those rebuilt ones from FCP as well. I gave it a try and got one (detroit axle I believe). They clarified it was an oem axle, but when I got it, it had the same dead joint as mine . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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