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CV axle vibration?


Seaway

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I am going to be checking axles, bearings and motor mounts today after work.  With any luck I will be able to isolate the problem and get it remedied soon.  I have a 6 hour drive to make this weekend and I want to do it without the vibrations if possible.

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I am going to check mounts tonight.  The front (passenger side) mount is new, the upper firewall mount is new, and the torque mount has about 7000 miles on it and is the only poly mount in the car.   

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I had the same exact problem with aftermarket axles. Two different brands from O'Reillys, one from Autozone, and one from a (possibly local?) place called Discount Import Auto here in Portland, OR. I would definitely recommend going OEM with cv axles... You can find rebuilt OEM axles on fcpeuro.com for 70$ a pop plus a core charge of $75. Even if you don't send your cores back, $150 for an axle isn't half bad. The cores don't have to be OEM either.

The rebuilt axles sold by FCP are not OEM. I would stay away from them. 

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I am going to check mounts tonight.  The front (passenger side) mount is new, the upper firewall mount is new, and the torque mount has about 7000 miles on it and is the only poly mount in the car.   

Huh. Those poly mounts can create excess vibration but that usually shows more at idle. Going out on a limb here, but check subframe bushings? Maybe you'll see something obvious. Not really sure how to check the two hydraulic mounts other than check for leaking, I've personally never had to deal with them. I tend to avoid autozone for anything other than last minute saves and brakes, but they do have lifetime warranty on axles. Might be worth swapping one out (not too huge a job) and seeing what happens. 

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The NAPA axle has a lifetime warranty as well, so I can always replace the passenger side if it is actually bad.  I looked at the hydraulic mounts when I did the front engine mount and they didn't appear to be leaking, but I will give them a closer look too.  

 

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The rebuilt axles sold by FCP are not OEM. I would stay away from them. 

I had them check before I even gave it a try, and they came back (FCP) and told me they were rebuilt OEM axles. I did get another Volvo axle that had been painted black. Like I said though, it had the same dead joint as my original did. So I question the quality.

That was within 6 months ago. 

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The rebuilt axles sold by FCP are not OEM. I would stay away from them. 

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-axle-shaft-front-left-c70-v70-s70-850-rebuilt-ax-8577

"Remanufacturing is only practical under certain circumstances, and is often the best option for car parts that were manufactured in low volumes (think exotic, limited production cars), OR where key components of the part don’t really wear out (think alternator cases and CV axels). In the latter is where USA Industries excels. They are a US based remanufacturing facility that is ISO 9001:2000 certified, meaning they have well developed processes to ensure quality throughout the process and test 100% of their units to ensure they perform at the OEM spec or better. Additionally, USA uses ONLY Original Volvo axles for its rebuilding process."

 

Are you sure?

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https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-axle-shaft-front-left-c70-v70-s70-850-rebuilt-ax-8577

"Remanufacturing is only practical under certain circumstances, and is often the best option for car parts that were manufactured in low volumes (think exotic, limited production cars), OR where key components of the part don’t really wear out (think alternator cases and CV axels). In the latter is where USA Industries excels. They are a US based remanufacturing facility that is ISO 9001:2000 certified, meaning they have well developed processes to ensure quality throughout the process and test 100% of their units to ensure they perform at the OEM spec or better. Additionally, USA uses ONLY Original Volvo axles for its rebuilding process."

 

Are you sure?

I am confident that the parts used to rebuild the OEM axles are not actually OEM (i.e., boots - which are most susceptible to wear and tear)

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I had the same exact problem with aftermarket axles. Two different brands from O'Reillys, one from Autozone, and one from a (possibly local?) place called Discount Import Auto here in Portland, OR. I would definitely recommend going OEM with cv axles... You can find rebuilt OEM axles on fcpeuro.com for 70$ a pop plus a core charge of $75. Even if you don't send your cores back, $150 for an axle isn't half bad. The cores don't have to be OEM either.

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I am confident that the parts used to rebuild the OEM axles are not actually OEM (i.e., boots - which are most susceptible to wear and tear)

You are definitely getting OEM Volvo cv axle hard parts. As for the boots, that makes sense considering the price difference between oem boots, grease, and axles themselves. At $70 an axle, they have to be cheaping out on the boots. Only reason I didn't pull OEM cv axles from a junkyard is because every axle I find is either aftermarket or has a torn boot and no grease and I have no idea how long the person was driving with no cv joint grease... Come to think of it, so is the case with these rebuilt axles... I should have just pulled some axles..

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After checking and double checking axles, bearings and motor mounts, I finally got a clue to the real problem while on my commute to and from work.  While sitting in traffic I was getting a little misfire at idle.  Not enough to set the CEL or throw a pending code, but enough that it could be felt as a little "tick" in the steering wheel.  So last night I swapped out the Bougicord wires (date stamped 6/14) with an old set I had in my garage and the problem is gone.  No more vibration and the power feels as though it is up a good bit.  The real test will be Saturday when I go on a 150 mile trip to visit family.  

I am a little embarrassed for having overlooked something this simple, but I would have bet money it was drivetrain related and not engine related.  I am just relieved that it is fixed.  Thanks for you help and patience.

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Glad you figured it out! 

Thanks for posting what you found; so many of these kind of threads just dead end..

The misfire is back. New cap and rotor will be going in tonight. Hopefully that will officially close the door on this whole thing. I am a couple hundred miles from home, so the drive will likely be a pain. I will have to stay off boost as much as possible. 

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