SeamusW Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 I have a 2002 s60 T5 with a little over 250k miles. Over the summer I replaced the Etm due to the car barely running, and throwing a code on vida for throttle valve faulty signal. A new Bosch etm from FCP euro seemed to have fixed the problem. maybe 4 months later I start my car, it immediately idles at a steady 1700 Rpms, and it hard to drive. On vida, I got codes for throttle valve faulty signal, air leakage, and a potentiometer one. The exact same codes at the old etm. If I disconnect the battery to reset the ecu the problem goes away until it occurs the next time. It happened twice this week. Does anyone know what would cause this? Thanks seamus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fran9690 Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 Could be a failed ETM again. An OE ETM is made by magneti marelli. I've never heard of any aftermarket ones being used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 The 99-01 ETM was Magnetti Marelli, from 02- it was Bosch. (except for NA cars). The local dealer told me that they sometimes have problems with the plug to the ETM and they even have set up a package that the dealer will sell that is a set of 6 wires, and 6 new wire ends, and the plug itself that connects to the ETM. Might want to investigate that before buying a new ETM. And the dealer also told me they have had occasional problems with the Bosch units, just nowhere near the problems with the Magnetti Marelli units. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeamusW Posted November 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 Thanks for the replies. The 02 and up turbo models do use the Bosch units, which is why I would be surprised if a new one had already started to fair. I also suspected the connector, as the clips that hold it in are broken, and it works 100% fine most of the time. Is there anything other than the connector to the etm that could cause this? The maf was also replaced less than a year ago due to another issue, and the engine has about 95k miles on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 Apparently the ETM itself will cause problems, but the dealer foreman told me that they discovered that most of the problems were actually the wiring plug, and they have fewer problems when they fix that first. But they still have problems, although I am told not very frequent, and I didn't inquire further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted November 18, 2015 Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 Definately replace the connector and terminals. I have repaired MANY vehicles with this fix and not replaced the throttle unit. Also, do not use butt connectors here. Solder and heat shrink is the only way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeamusW Posted November 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 On November 18, 2015 at 12:46:29 PM, Ihatespeedbumps said: Definately replace the connector and terminals. I have repaired MANY vehicles with this fix and not replaced the throttle unit. Also, do not use butt connectors here. Solder and heat shrink is the only way to go. Is there any way to test to see if the connector is bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 Try a new ETM relay before proceeding. Or swap in a used one. Not saying you don't have an issue with poor wiring/connectors but this is a 2 minute affair that could be an issue. Just popped in a relay to my '99 because the ETM was acting odd - seemed to smooth out my gritty idle and car is running pretty good. The old relay would get hot to the touch a few minutes after the car was started. My car is at 165k. At your mileage wiring and/or relays are definitely going to show their age. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 On November 22, 2015 at 4:37 PM, SeamusW said: Is there any way to test to see if the connector is bad? Not really, the terminals are prone to corrosion over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted January 6, 2016 Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 Testing connector.... You can test voltage drop through the wire / connector (or resistance). You will have to puncture the wire prior to the connector and check continuity between the wire and connector terminal. Friendly advice, try the relay first if you haven't already. Messing around with connectors and re-terminating properly is a time consuming affair and possibly unnecessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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