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'11 c30 NeuCaR


NEU

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14 hours ago, Kevin. said:

I did an H11 55w 5000k kit, I have no lights or strobing of any kind. When I have the headlights on the 0 position I do get a bulb failure but I always have the lights on

I've got 3K and 4.3K bulbs and I've got 2 different kits I have check out. An old APEX kit from DDM without the bulb out "error code eliminators" box?? and the other is a cheap (weak) Amazon kit. When I ran them with 3k bulbs they looked green and 4.3k they were blueish, but 3k with the APEX were amber and with the 4.3k were white.

I'm guessing the bulb failure warning you get is due to the DRL?

I gotta say, I find the halogen low beams to be adequate, the high beams are AMAZING! At night my bug collection has been outstanding! :blink:

9 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

Makes sense to go with the IPD for that price.

The R Design is about the same ride height as mine (with the Eibachs)  - the steering itself is no different between R / T5. 

The dead pedal came off eBay, kit for auto, I just ditched the brake pedal cover.

Wheels are Advanti Hybris 18x8, ET45  w/235/40x18 Kumho - no rubbing at all. 

 I'm not sure if this is correct but according to Car and Driver "2011 the R-Design package adds stiffer springs, retuned dampers, and quicker steering.

About the swaybar any issues with the 28mm bar? I'm wondering if IPD 22mm is worth the upgrade. Seams like a lot of the companies are doing 25+mm.

Good to know on the tires. I'm thinking 245 to fill the tire gap a bit and get a bit more grip and maybe sidewall for the bumps. I'm going to stick with the stock 215/45 Bridgestones that are on there, but would like get my Ultras painted, just not 100% sure if I want them in silver again to have them bling! Or go with black to hide the brake dust.

 

Also got a TPS warning that I thought was due to needing air in one tire, but all are at 38psi and I've still got a warning... Need to investigate that and also noticed one of the rims has a decent blip in it. :angry: #used car problems...

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if i recall correctly, the stock rear sway bar is 21mm on the R design.  The ipd one is a waste of money IMO.  Because of the cross platform between ford and mazda there are lots of vendors for parts.  IPD is probably the weakest aftermarket supplier for the p1 platform.  Great for p80's and older since they've been in the game so long, but don't turn to them for the c30

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You're right about the IPD bar totally not worth it for 1mm. Thanks for letting me know the stock RD bar size. I think maybe a 25 or bigger is needed. And I just noticed that the CS bar is on sale for $198, the JBR is a good price but CS gets the billet brackets for free. I just wish I could run an IPD endlink style instead of the standard style with some of those bars.

I am really liking this cross platform Volvo! :wub: I've NEVER had so many options for performance part in my 20yrs of being in the Volvo game...:happy:

Also think I need to get new TPS since it sounds like the battery only last 5yrs.:dry: I'll get them for the Ultraleggera before I mount tires. And speaking of batteries both key fobs are dead too, can't lock the car! :angry:

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1 hour ago, NEU said:

You're right about the IPD bar totally not worth it for 1mm. Thanks for letting me know the stock RD bar size. I think maybe a 25 or bigger is needed. And I just noticed that the CS bar is on sale for $198, the JBR is a good price but CS gets the billet brackets for free. I just wish I could run an IPD endlink style instead of the standard style with some of those bars.

I am really liking this cross platform Volvo! :wub: I've NEVER had so many options for performance part in my 20yrs of being in the Volvo game...:happy:

Also think I need to get new TPS since it sounds like the battery only last 5yrs.:dry: I'll get them for the Ultraleggera before I mount tires. And speaking of batteries both key fobs are dead too, can't lock the car! :angry:

Earlier c30's had a 18 or 19mm bar, so in the beginning the IPD one was a decent upgrade.  Sucks about your remotes.  But I accidentally washed one of mine once and now I can't get anywhere near the car without the windows staying down.

Once you get your remotes working, press the unlock button three times and hold it on the third.  Windows come down.

 

Forgot to mention.  The aftermarket catch with the c30 is the tune.  Pretty much just Autotech via Elevate -  meh for US car support if you experience any problems, RICA - popular outside the US,  iPD - not very many c30's with these that I know of, Hilton - which i don't know all that much about, and Shark Performance.  I'm not trying to advertise for Shark, but from what I've heard they have the best customer service and will actively work with you to make sure you're happy with your tune.

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49 minutes ago, Kevin. said:

I mean you can get a Polestar tune from Volvo with free software updates and everything!

Oh yeah! I forgot about Polestar.  I've felt that one firsthand and it is a NICE bump.  The only problem is that it won't accommodate for a catless dp.  But if you're looking to keep the engine stockish, that's a good way to go for sure.

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Tune wise, I'm going to keep it stock, for now. :biggrin: I do love how peppy this car is with the high compression motor and a quick spooling turbo, and I thought the 19t spooled quick! I see Shark and Elevate are around $800, I think Polestar is $1K+?? but you get the cool emblem... I like how it doesn't decrease the MPG and I can go to my local dealer to get it installed.  

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My friend's father has the Shark tune for his C30 (you C30Crew guys should know my friend Alan Dubcee) and they love it. Feels great and loves the customer service.

I would either go with Shark or Polestar. I know Polestar has the least gains but it's still something but I like that it's something you can get from the dealer without trouble.

Nice car btw, Neu! Glad you stuck in the Volvo game... oddly enough, the C30 is one that I've been dreaming of as a daily driver. haha

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Pretty sure the "quicker steering" was marketing hype, unless they deemed it a by product of the spring/damper/tire profile package...

dont forget the hubs are different size - so hub centric rings will be different than for P80 fitment

The TPMS can be had off Amazon for about $30 ea - cheapest source I found

VDO SE10004A REDI-Sensor 433.92 MHz TPMS Sensor

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1 hour ago, RBoy8 said:

My friend's father has the Shark tune for his C30 (you C30Crew guys should know my friend Alan Dubcee) and they love it. Feels great and loves the customer service.

I would either go with Shark or Polestar. I know Polestar has the least gains but it's still something but I like that it's something you can get from the dealer without trouble.

Nice car btw, Neu! Glad you stuck in the Volvo game... oddly enough, the C30 is one that I've been dreaming of as a daily driver. haha

Ah, you mean Canadian Alan as we call him in America.  Yes, I know him well.

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Hussein, you could be right about the shorter profile tires = quicker steering. I've not read anything else about that. I've found some TPMS on Amazon, but they were $50 each or getting them from Tasca for $80. Thanks for the part#. And I've got to order new hub rings for the Ultras, but that will be down the line when I order the TPMS.

I've seen SO many different companies make RSBs that it's overwhelming! :unsure:RaceBeat, JamesBaronRacing, CorkSport, Hotchkis, Cobb, ProgressTechnology, etc. etc. .... I'd like to stay away from tubular as it's hard to compare them to a solid bar unless you know the tube wall thickness and it's equivalent to solid bars. I've been looking at the RB 27mm non adjustable RSB, $155, my rotary friends would get a chuckle out that on my Volvo. I'm kinda favoring CS, 28mm it's adjustable and has the billet brackets and on sale!

So the keyfob issue continues after betting a new battery for one of the fobs. Still nothing works on it and not able to lock/unlock the doors... I've read it could be deprogramed or a door connection issue which seems to have a $700 fix. I'm going back to the dealer this weekend and ask for a refund on "refurbishment" charge as they obviously did nothing and just flipped the car...:angry:

If I do a tune it will be a very mild stage 1 and have to keep the same MPG. The idea of the Polestar is growing, I guess it depends on the dollars per smiles I get out of it. :biggrin: Maybe if I get a decent refund on the "refurbishment" deal cost I'll sink it into sways and tune...

 

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1 hour ago, NEU said:

Hussein, you could be right about the shorter profile tires = quicker steering. I've not read anything else about that. I've found some TPMS on Amazon, but they were $50 each or getting them from Tasca for $80. Thanks for the part#. And I've got to order new hub rings for the Ultras, but that will be down the line when I order the TPMS.

I've seen SO many different companies make RSBs that it's overwhelming! :unsure:RaceBeat, JamesBaronRacing, CorkSport, Hotchkis, Cobb, ProgressTechnology, etc. etc. .... I'd like to stay away from tubular as it's hard to compare them to a solid bar unless you know the tube wall thickness and it's equivalent to solid bars. I've been looking at the RB 27mm non adjustable RSB, $155, my rotary friends would get a chuckle out that on my Volvo. I'm kinda favoring CS, 28mm it's adjustable and has the billet brackets and on sale!

So the keyfob issue continues after betting a new battery for one of the fobs. Still nothing works on it and not able to lock/unlock the doors... I've read it could be deprogramed or a door connection issue which seems to have a $700 fix. I'm going back to the dealer this weekend and ask for a refund on "refurbishment" charge as they obviously did nothing and just flipped the car...:angry:

If I do a tune it will be a very mild stage 1 and have to keep the same MPG. The idea of the Polestar is growing, I guess it depends on the dollars per smiles I get out of it. :biggrin: Maybe if I get a decent refund on the "refurbishment" deal cost I'll sink it into sways and tune...

 

As long as you stay within stock boost range (9-10psi) you won't see any impact on mileage with a tune alone.  The worst thing you can do with the c30 for gas mileage is install an aftermarket downpipe.  The bolts tend to back out of the turbo connection (ask me how I know) and you run rich.  That being said, if you can actually get the bolts to stay in, there's zero negative impact on mileage.

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