T5 timing question XC90 dual CVVT

[UncleBoost]

Looking at obtaining an 06 XC90 dirt cheap.. the issue with it is that the top half of the engine (5cyl with dual CVVT) is dismantled and removed from the engine. My question is this ...hasn't Volvo made it simple since the Front timing belt crankshaft gear has a reference notch in which to align with the cover notch, and the fact that Volvo has made it fool proof with the Camshaft locking process that things will be aligned once these criterion are met?...

Do the CVVT hubs need to be Loaded when timing the belt?

  When I did my T6 engine 4 years ago I did the same process, but I referenced TDC from Cylinder #5. Does anyone reading this know what Cyl Reference to use as TDC on the T5 engine? or is it even necessary? Everything i find during searching only brings up pre-2000 models...Thanks

 

UB

[wizzard_al]

Volvo doesn't set the engine at TDC when you set the cams on the 5 cylinder. It is close, but not there. If the engine is assembled, you are supposed to turn the engine 1/4 turn clockwise past the timing marks on the timing gear cover, and then turn the engine back until the gears line up with the cover. When you are starting from scratch, you need to do the following:

First, have the crank in the correct position with the notch in the crank gear matching the bump in the oil pump housing. .

Exhaust cam: leave the screws that hold the gear to the VVT center loose. Push the VVT onto the cam. Install the center screw, and tighten slightly. turn the VVT unit counter-clockwise as far as it will go. Remove the center screw. Put the upper timing cover. Turn the timing gear pulley clockwise until the screws on the holes are at the limit position. Continue turning clockwise until the timing gear pulley marking is 1 gear tooth before the marking on the upper timing cover. (That means 1 tooth counter-clockwise from the marking) The timing gear pulley should still be in the limit position in the mounting holes. Tighten the center screw in the VVT unit. to 120 NM (you MUST have the cams anchored with the cam tool to do this) Check that the VVT has not rotated when tightening the center bolt. Install the center plug (65 NM). Turn the VVT unit clockwise to the limit position. turn the timing gear pulley so that the markings match the upper timing cover. tighten the bolts on the VVT unit to the exhaust cam gear. (10 NM)

Intake Cam: same start, loose screws on the gear to VVT. press the VVT unit and gear pulley onto the cam. Install the center screw and tighten slightly. Turn the VVT unit counter-clockwise as rar as it will go. Remove the center screw. position the upper timing cover. Turn the timing gear pulley clockwise until the screws at the oval mounting holes are ath the limit. Continue turning clockwise until the timing gear pulley marking is 1.5 gear teeth clockwise of the marking on the timing gear cover. The VVT should still be in the limit position in the mounting holes in the gear. Tighten the center screw in the VVT unit and the cover cap (same torque). Don't let the VVT unit rotate while tightening. Turn the vVT unit clockwise to the limit position. Turn the timing gear pulley so that the marking matches the timing gear cover. 

Now you are ready to install the timing belt. Basically, you have the VVT units in a relaxed position. 

 

[UncleBoost]

Wizard_Al,

Thanks for this information... I will take pictures and post a write up if I go through with this deal. Thank you very much.

 

-=UB=-

[F250]

wizard_al, can you provide some clarifications for me on your first post... I'm in a screwed up situation and need some assistance along the lines of what you explained.

 

Context... 2007 S60 2.5T FWD.  Replaced both vvt cam hubs.  Forgot to mark the intake gear position with the hubs locked, before removing the hub from the cam.  The exhaust hub has the marks as it should (I caught myself between the two hub removal steps).  I can probably get the intake hub/gear back within 1-2 teeth marks, but I want to do better than that.

When locking the cams from the rear, I had to rotate BOTH the intake cam counterclockwise (top towards the rear of the vehicle) AND the exhaust hub clockwise (top towards the front bumper) in order to get the rear slots to line up for the locking tool.

Like I said, I can get the exhaust hub back in it's original position, but I'm going to be off on the intake hub.

The crank marks are in perfect alignment.

I have VIDA, but cannot get he Diagnostic tab to activate (even after trying to change the Partner Group setting).

I am not only brand new to Volvos and VIDA, but can't seem to get VIDA in a useful position as a resource.  Having now spent roughly $2,000 on parts (timing system and water pump, thermostat, upper/lower radiator hoses, complete PCV system replacement, spark plugs, both VVT hubs, enough oil and coolant for complete flushes and replacements, etc.), I can;t afford to take it to a shop for them to spend "3 hours at $110/hr" fixing my problem for me.

What do I do to get the timing in proper positions, and I hate to say it, but I need detailed explanations.  For example, when you talk above about the steps and get to the end where you say "Turn the VVT unit clockwise to the limit position. turn the timing gear pulley so that the markings match the upper timing cover. tighten the bolts on the VVT unit to the exhaust cam gear. (10 NM)"... I assume that the 10 NM torque setting is in relation to the three positioning bolts between the timing gear and the cam hub... and if that's that case, I sort of get lost reading through your explanation because I'm not sure when you're referring to the center bolt as opposed to the perimeter cam gear bolts.  

I'm sorry, but the VVT issues is just a whole new world to me, and I'm not fluent with the process or terminology, but I CAN and WILL do the necessary wrenching to work through this on my own.

Thanks, Pete.

 

 

[wizzard_al]

The 10 NM is for the bolts that hold the VVT hub to the cam gear. 

If you have the crank in the correct position, the cams should be positioned so that the slots in the cams are basically close to horizontal. The intake cam slot is above the center line of the cams, and the exhaust cam is below the center line of the cams. If you look at VIDA, and once you have entered your VIN number, and which transmission you have, you can then go to information - removal, replacement and installation, then go to engine, cylinder head/gasket, replacement, and party way down the instructions, under installing valve lifters and camshafts, you'll see a drawing of how the cams are supposed to be set. I think the approximately 30 degree angle of the cams might be slightly exaggerated, but that gives you an idea of how to proceed. When you install the cam tool, it will force you to rotate the cams into position, usually very slight movement if you've already rotate the cams a bit. 

If you had to turn the cams very far with the head on the engine, you had better be sure that you didn't run into a lot of resistance, and inadvertently bend a valve. Easy to do if you turn the cams too far. 

extra comment, the intake VVT hut is colored blue.

[F250]

wizard_al:  

Thanks  for those additional comments and details.  Since my initial post, I figured out that the trouble I was having in getting into Diagnostics was because I had not entered the transmission type in the vehicle profile, or so it seems at this point, anyway.  I spent some time this weekend re-reading your posted instructions with more care and thought, and believe I understand what you had first written up.  Again, though, your clarifications are helpful.

I basically spent the remainder of the holiday weekend putting everything back together (oil pan, PCV system replacement, air intake reinstall, intake manifold reinstall, fan reinstall, thermostat and radiator hoses, etc.), and I chose to leave the cam gears and timing belt for last so I could purchase some extra time to get my brain wrapped around exactly how I was going to proceed.  I still have the spark plugs to replace and one stripped oil pan bolt to tap & coil, fuel and cabin air filters to replace, and battery to check before I fill with oil and coolant to then move into the timing setup.  

When I initially aligned everything to lock the cams, I did have to rotate the intake cam slightly counterclockwise (roughly 10 degrees) and the exhaust clockwise by a little more than that (roughly 15-20 degrees).  It wasn't too difficult to rotate the cams, but the hardest part was simply getting a "grip" in the slots to make the movement.

Currently, I'm planning to take on those tasks in small chunks during the evenings this week and try to get more familiar with VIDA, and will chase down the procedure as you described.

Thanks again,

Pete

[wizzard_al]

Sorry, I posted in another thread that you have to select the transmission for your engine, or you can't get to the diagnostics or the parts/repair section! Forgot to add that here. 

[F250]

From what I've read, there appear to be two different transmission models for my car, and I wasn't sure how to narrow it down to which specific one I have, or if it even is that critical since I'm not doing drive line work right now.  This link ( https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=volvo+S60+transmission+model+numbers, updated on 01/11/2015) indicates that the model name for my transmission is "5spd_automatic", but that does not show up in the 2014D VIDA list of options for transmission type.  The list I find at ___ only shows model names for 2003-2006 model years, and since mine is FWD, that particular list indicates that it may be "AW55-50SN" which I believe is in the 2014D VIDA list.  Since my model year, though, is 2007, perhaps my particular transmission model name is "AW55-51SN" which is also in the list on 2014D VIDA?

WELL... I broke down and called a Volvo transmission specialist over in Sacramento (Bravo Motors) and spent about 15 minutes talking it all over with one of their Master Techs, and got some good details.  Short list of what I learned from him.

- Since my S60 is FWD, the transmission model name is "AW55-50SN"

- VIDA can actually tell me a good idea of how much off and in which direction I'm off in the timing.  I need to chase down through Diagnostics, and on the Fault Tracing window, I select "Parameters" on the right side of the display and scroll down to look at the "Target" and "Actual" and "difference" values for the intake and exhaust timing values.  These values are either positive or negative, and that will tell me not only which direction to make adjustments, but also by how much.  I do not know what the units are (degrees, miliseconds, etc.), but now I know at least I can get some form of numerical value to indicate how much difference my trial and error process will be making as I chase the "difference" down to zero. The only reason I even mention this is because up 'til now, I was told by one of my local shop guys that I can't get numerical values for any aspect of being out of time and would simply have to rely on 100% guesswork & trial and error, but I guess that was incorrect.  At the same time, though, the local guy probably has enough experience to not necessarily need to rely on numbers as much as I would.

[wizzard_al]

The only problem is figuring out what moving the gear clockwise does, vs counter clockwise. Which one is positive, and which is negative? Have to figure that positive probably means that the cam is advanced, so you rotate it a tooth counter clockwise to get closer. 

[F250]

Yep.  That is exactly what I was expecting... that there will be an initial "trial and error" adjustment just to verify which directional movement effects a positive or negative movement.  I'm all up for that, though, especially since that initial "test" move will give me the road map for future adjustments.  As an engineer, I'm completely an "analytical numbers guy", so that kind of procedure right in my wheelhouse, and I'm actually looking forward to digging into it on Friday afternoon once I leave the blueberry patch ('Tis that time of year for our family to do our annual blueberry picking event.  Last year, we picked over 32 gallons of blueberries, but we over did it and still have 10 gallons in the freezer right now.  Consequently, we'll only pick about 8-10 gallons this year.  The ONLY things which beat my wife's homemade blueberry-lime jam is her homemade cherry-almond jam, grapefruit marmalade, and apricot jam! ).

[wizzard_al]

You make me jealous abut the blueberries and jams. 

[F250]

Sorry, but I have to say it... We picked 10 gallons of berries on Friday morning, and my wife put up 8 batches of blueberry-lime jam on Saturday, which now leaves us with a total of about 16 gallons of berries in the freezer for Blueberry Crisp, Blueberry Muffins, and smoothies throughout the coming year..  The fresh jam is simply AWESOME!

[F250]

Timing adjustments.

VIDA reports the cam positions in degrees, both positive and negative.

My exhaust cam is almost dead on, which means I made and followed my marks correctly.

Given my guesswork markings on my intake cam, it's running -11.2 degrees "slow" which means I need to adjust that hub clockwise by 11 degrees.

Tomorrow, I'll start final adjustments and test driving.

[wizzard_al]

So nice when you have VIDA to figure out what you did, and determine if you did it correctly. I've diagnosed multiple problems that way, and love it. 

[UncleBoost]

***UPDATE ***

So I bought the 2005 XC90, $900 Ish... Got it home,  turned over but no start... After a couple of days of diagnostics,  I decided to check the terribly cracked insulated coil pack wires... The ECU pulse wires were all brown... So I had to remove all of the melted wire looming to get the actual original colors visible. . And as I suspected packs 1&2,  3&4 were reversed... Swapped them back and presto!!! SHE RUNS!! The definition of "Mechanics special"..