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I bought a worn out 98 Volvo S70, aka how older cars can get so expensive so quickly


TryingBe

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I came across a 98 Volvo S70 for sale, 254k miles, turbo with manual transmission. Stock, they make 236hp, 5 speed manual options was rare. I went to check it out and it has non-torn front seats!!! The car was sold with an engine with dead cylinders and I have a working engine at home, so that is not big deal to me. I was told the car have its clutch changed a few years ago, there were also around $1800 worth of receipts of radiator change, struts change, brakes, and etc done few months ago. After a short negotiation, car was mine. Plan was to fix it up and sell it for profit.

After I took everything apart, here is what I found:

Has two dead cylinders on the engine.
Clutch disc worn to the rivets (factory 254k clutch, most likely)
Leaking heater core
All vacuum hoses have cracks
All torn boots on CV shafts
All torn boots on ball joints
Motor mounts are all broken, yes all 5. Transmission mount is ok.
Steering wheel light tan leather is worn to grey
Arm rest skin is all cracked
Rear main started to seep a little
Exhaust gasket are all in pieces
8 rivets are missing on the front mud flaps
Wire plastic insulation crumples when you touch them
A/C clutch gap is at .6 mm
Cracks on the coolant surge tank
PCV system is plugged
Hand brakes adjustment is way off, due to one side brake shoes have no meat
Dead fuel pump
Air pump code
Turbo coolant hoses are old and worn
Dual mass flywheel is worn
Volvo heater hose junction came apart when I undo the heater core hoses

 

S70a.jpg

pic50.jpg

See the shiny rivets? The disc is worn down to the rivets!
clutch9.jpg

pcv.jpg

steering1.jpg

armrest1.jpg

controlarms3.jpg
 

ebrakeshoes1.jpg

Plan was to change/upgrade the below

Newer engine with 142k miles, change cam seals, both front and rear main seals, change intake/exhaust manifold gaskets
Single mass flywheel conversion and R 240mm clutch.
New heater core with heater core hose conversion
New silicone vacuum hoses
CV shafts with good boots
All new OE engine mounts
Vinyl steering wheel
Re-skin arm rest
Put in new rivets for the front mud flaps
Wireloom and tape all wires
Re-gapped the A/C clutch gap to .4mm
Change the coolant surge tank
Change PCV system and upgrade the hose
Put in new hand brake shoes
Put in new fuel pump
All new coolant hoses
New fluids for everything, oil, brake fluid, manual trans oil, and coolant
New o-rings for the engine oil cooler hoses


Engine out
empty.jpg

Old engine and new engine
outengineout.jpg

New Aisin timing belt kit with Aisin waterpump
timing.jpg

Changed to single mass flywheel so save $150 - $200
flywheel.jpg

240mm R clutch
installclutch2.jpg

installclutch3.jpg

New style exhaust manifold gasket
exhaustgasket6.jpg

New engine in
newenginein1.jpg

Almost ready
newenginein3.jpg

Ready
newenginein4.jpg

Newer brake shoe and adjusted the e brake
ebrakeshoes2.jpg

New armrest skin
armrest2.jpg

Interior done
interior.jpg

Newer steering wheel
steering5.jpg

A/C works!
ac.jpg


18 years is a lot of tolls on parts, and they seems to all worn down to nothing at the same time. This is how things can get so expensive! I expected to do maybe 80% of the work that I've done, and I was definitely expecting to see a newer clutch in there instead of a 254k original Volvo clutch. I was not expecting the fuel pump to be dead, nor that there was no meat on one side of the brake shoe.
 
The moral is, when work claim is made, unless the seller have the receipts of the work done, expect the work not done.

I finished up late afternoon couple days ago and drove the car for 3 miles today. A/C and the transmission works flawlessly.

Abs/trac light came on after I got the engine running, common issue for these cars. Solder joints needs to be re-solder, bad news is that the unit on the car is already re-solder by someone, that means I need to get a new one and solder it myself.

Yesterday, I went to junkyard to get a better looking seatbelt, a master windows switch, and ABS module.

Today, I put in the new seatbelt and windows switch
seatbelt.jpg

Someone failed at repairing the ABS module.
old%20abs.jpg

Opened up the NEW ABS module and redid all the soldering.
new%20abs.jpg

Fixed the ABS/TRAC lights!
abslightgone.jpg

Found both shifter bushings are broken!
shifterbushing.jpg

Homemade bushings to the rescue! 5/8 heatercore hose, 5/16 silicone hose, and stock bushing sleeve in the center with a bracket preventing the cable to come loose.
homemadeshifterbushings.jpg

Had to put in a spare 850 info switch, the S70's switch came apart when I touched it.
850infoswitch.jpg

All I have left is finish the coolant flush and fill it with coolant.
69hrs into it.

 

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You know the air pump can be dealt with via a resistor on the ECU right?

They're interesting sedans, but that's a pretty comprehensive list of all the common failure points on a neglected or well worn 850/X70. Fuel pump isn't terribly common, but doubt they last forever. I'd think they usually don't have ALL that wrong at once. It definitely can add up quick. You might want to check the rubber diaphram compressor bypass valve (CBV) on top of the compressor housing. The rubber may have dried out.

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4 hours ago, Fudge_Brownie said:

You know the air pump can be dealt with via a resistor on the ECU right?

No need for any hardware changes. I got this.

flashstation.JPG

 

Car is sold and picked up. I made $20.08/hr for the hours I worked.

Now, on to my other non-car projects...

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On 7/14/2016 at 5:12 PM, Meek said:

Great work.

Stupid question: What's this ac clutch gap thing you speak of? How do I measure it and what are the symptoms of being out of spec? Thanks.

You use feeler gauge to measure the a/c clutch gap between the a/c compressor housing. When the gap is too big, a/c will work when the car is from a cold start, for about 5 minutes then the a/c will stop working.

Spec is .03 - .04  mm. Mine was .06 mm.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/downloads/Volvo-850-S70-V70-AC-Fix.pdf

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this image shows the front of compressor & clutch with a fix for the worn, widened gap.  this is what i'm going to try on mine.  however a valid question is: if the gap on the clutch is worn how long before the entire unit needs replaced?  (these are a real bear to rebuild and i'm not even sure its possible to rebuild them to like new state...any input on this is appreciated.)

 

some folks use bread bag clips & some monkey glue or favorite epoxy glue.  i'm going to try zip ties since my attempt with bread bag clips failed .  (this image looks like zip ties).  

ACClutchshim1.jpg

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