2001 V70 Heater core and O-ring change out

[JesterKB]

Here are some lessons learned I'd like to share after doing a heater core change out.  While the work was spread out over a few days, actual "work time" was about 2 hours.  This doesn't include failing for hours trying to get the O-rings to compress to get the pins in.  I solved that problem by making a simple tool.  More on this further down.

Removal was straightforward.  I followed the advice given by Mr. Winky for O-ring replacement from Bay 13 (http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how_tos/climate_control/s80_heater_core.html)

I did things just a little different, such as removing the 2 10mm hex head bolts on the fire wall where the heater hose go through.  This seemed to give me a little more wiggle to move the tubes out of the core.  To get the clips out, I had a small pair of channel locks that I put one jaw on the plastic housing, and the other on the tip that was protruding.  Once squeezed, this moved the clip to a point where I could get a flat screw driver head on the "loop end" but not in the little loop and using a twisting motion, get the clip out the rest of the way.   I then used a screwdriver to leverage the tubes out.  I then followed the instructions to position the steel tubes, except I used a cord attached to the steering wheel and going through a hole at the bottom of the dash portion I tied a truckers knot and pulled the tube out of the way.

I removed the core as I didn't know where the leak was from.  However I later determined it was the O-ring when I pressure checked the core.  Too late, I had already bought a new one since they were not all that expensive.  Getting the core out went well until it hit the steering universal joint. (I'd already pulled the brake light switch by pushing in the bottom tab and wiggling it out).  I've seen posts that say to remove the steering column, but I didn't.  I turned the steering to get the flat of the joint in the proper position, which gave me just enough room to force it.  The core still received minor damage at the bottom, but not enough to do any harm.

The new core (after putting on the foam seals) whet right in pretty easy which surprised me.  Now comes the TOUGH PART (well at least for me).  The Upper tube just refused to seat.  I tried using a screw driver to force it in, but perhaps I’m a bit too weak (I’m 66), so I tried to leverage it in.  Even after leveraging it in, it would pop out (I was warned not to bend the tube, but apparently I did).  After several failed attempts, I made a tool from a piece of 3/4 inch PVC pipe.  On the end was a 180 degree connector that a glued in tube had broken off.  I cut out a ¾ inch wide U on top using a 4 inch grinder, and cut the tube length to 24 inches as measured from the bottom of the “U”.  A picture of the simple tool is attached.

Using my improvised tool, I could push in the tube and wedge it so it would stay.  Unfortunately the tool gets in the way when putting back the clips.  To get around this, I installed a finishing nail instead of the clip.  On the top tube, I did this from the firewall side, and then pulled the tool.  I then easily installed the clip and as it went in, it pushed out the temporary nail.  The bottom tube was done in a similar fashion, except the nail was from the steering wheel side as I reversed the clip orientation to like was shown in the “how to”.

I hope this summation will help those that want to give this a try, as when I started I had serious doubts since the Reno Volvo dealer quoted me $1100 to do this.  However with the great write up from Mr. Winky in Bay 13 it seemed simple enough to give it a try, so a Special Hats Off  to Mr. Winky for giving me the encouragement to go for it.

Jester

[MrWinkey]

So my worthless crappy pics post years ago was worth something then!

 

Glad it helped!