Boxman Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 Just a quick question. After getting my knock-issues sorted I'm now finally back on tuning. My question is, for my engine, what would be a relatively safe max RPM for a built engine that hasn't been balanced? It's a 2.3L 1995 T5 completely rebuilt with Maxspeedingrod H-Beams, Wiseco forged pistons, new OEM sputter big end bearings and new OEM (correct size) crankshaft bearings. When rebuilding the shop told me balancing of the rotating assembly (crank, flywheel, clutch) wouldn't be necessary unless I went in excessive RPM's. At the time I didn't have all the parts together yet, so it wasn't really possible either. Anybody care to chime in on some educated guesstimates for RPM values that shouldn't pose a problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 Head is going to be the limiting factor, not the balance of the RA. If you're keeping the hydraulic head then keep the RPMs below 7500, if you want to go higher go with upgraded springs and retainers and you can go to 8500. Revving even above 7200 isn't going to net you much benefit unless your turbo can flow enough air. Even with my EFR I find myaelf shifting around 7100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdog Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 5 hours ago, Boxman said: After getting my knock-issues sorted I'm now finally back on tuning. So what did that entail..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 If you didnt do anything to the crank, flywheel and clutch then those parts should be fine. What I am concerned about are the rods, your throwing a lot of weight around and if those rods were not checked you may get some vibration. As for max RPM for an unbalanced engine, who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 @Tightmopedman9 Thanks for the estimates! I've got a GT3071R so I should be fine up to at least that 7000 RPM mark. I was still shifting at 6 due to habit and not really knowing what my build could actually do. @gdog Combination of my knocksensors being overtightened and not clocked correctly, plugs that were of too hot a grade and and using 'premium' fuel that turned out to be RON95 with some nasty additives... @boxpin Crank was stock, flywheel came from my own car pre-swap as the engine I rebuilt originally came from an auto transmission, and the clutch is a drop-in Spec 3+. I forgot to mention the rods were indeed checked by the shop and (to their surprise) were within a gram or so of each other. Should be fine then, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 7 hours ago, Boxman said: @boxpin Crank was stock, flywheel came from my own car pre-swap as the engine I rebuilt originally came from an auto transmission, and the clutch is a drop-in Spec 3+. I forgot to mention the rods were indeed checked by the shop and (to their surprise) were within a gram or so of each other. Should be fine then, right? All sounds good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 From the factory these engines are well balanced, last 2.3 I had apart the combination of rods, pistons and bearing were all within 1 gram. I can't see how things would need to be re-balanced unless there was significant wear, and if there was I don't think you would reuse the components anyways. Last build I did I matched all RA parts, including rings to within .1grams. Set your rev-limit to 7400 and don't worry about it, there is no need for anything higher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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