the_nater Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 New member but long term Volvo fanatic here (owned everything from a '83 245 GLT to a '98 V70XC AWD so far)... Looking for some insight. I'm currently wagonless and need to fix that problem ASAP.. I'm looking at purchasing this jewel but don't want to buy it and then discover I'm in for a ride of throwing money away as I know the 99-00 models had some computer problems etc.. https://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/5813237835.html. It's one of the cleanest v70's I've ever seen. The interior/exterior is spotless and engine bay is clean as well. ETM has already been replaced and the tires, struts, and timing belt are all fairly new. As described in the ad, the car will start and idle but immeadiately sputters if given gas, I was able to feather/modulate the throttle enough to get it to rev up to around 3k and stay there but it acts up again as soon as you let off. The symptoms seem to indicate a MAF or fuel pump relay/fuel pump but there is NO CEL. Any advice/suggestions you could provide would be awesome! Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 I moved this thread from Performance, as this is more of a Maintenance question. I'm not as familiar with the 99-2000 cars, but I never thought of them as having computer problems. I thought the ME7 system was fine. It's the ETM that can cause trouble. $1k seems a little steep for a car that won't run. Even if it is an easy fix, it doesn't run. If the crankcase pressure is building, but sure to look for rear main seal leak, as that's a real involved repair. Are you sure there is no CEL? Is it possible the bulb in the dash is dead and/or removed? I'd also check for pending codes, which will show on a scanner but not set the light yet. Hard to believe if it is a sensor related problem that is bad enough to kill the engine that it hasn't set something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 I second the recommendation to plug in a scanner even if no CEL is present. It almost sounds as if a charge pipe has come of, but several things could be going on here. MAF and or ETM are also very likely culprits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_nater Posted October 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 16 hours ago, Fudge_Brownie said: I moved this thread from Performance, as this is more of a Maintenance question. I'm not as familiar with the 99-2000 cars, but I never thought of them as having computer problems. I thought the ME7 system was fine. It's the ETM that can cause trouble. $1k seems a little steep for a car that won't run. Even if it is an easy fix, it doesn't run. If the crankcase pressure is building, but sure to look for rear main seal leak, as that's a real involved repair. Are you sure there is no CEL? Is it possible the bulb in the dash is dead and/or removed? I'd also check for pending codes, which will show on a scanner but not set the light yet. Hard to believe if it is a sensor related problem that is bad enough to kill the engine that it hasn't set something. Thanks. Not sure how I managed to post this in performance lol. I agree that $1k is steep for a non-running car. It does very much feel like a charge pipe is loose or come off so that would be a nice easy fix. The CEL light could be burned out. I don't have a scanner tho I might be able to borrow one. The rest of the car is in such excellent shape that I feel like if I can get him down to $850 or so it would be a good buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 3 hours ago, the_nater said: I don't have a scanner tho I might be able to borrow one. A cheap, basic scanner isn't a lot of $. https://www.amazon.com/U480-CAN-BUS-Scanner-Diagnostics-Vehicles/dp/B005FJ0BRI/ref=lp_5691226011_1_2?srs=5691226011&ie=UTF8&qid=1475853608&sr=8-2 Actron makes a similar, but better look-n-feel and more reputable brand name. You might be tempted by the bluetooth/wifi options, but I'd go with a hardwired one because you want it to work when you're sitting in the guy's car. Not messing with stuff on your phone/laptop going 'it worked yesterday, why not now?'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_nater Posted October 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 1 minute ago, Fudge_Brownie said: A cheap, basic scanner isn't a lot of $. https://www.amazon.com/U480-CAN-BUS-Scanner-Diagnostics-Vehicles/dp/B005FJ0BRI/ref=lp_5691226011_1_2?srs=5691226011&ie=UTF8&qid=1475853608&sr=8-2 Actron makes a similar, but better look-n-feel and more reputable brand name. You might be tempted by the bluetooth/wifi options, but I'd go with a hardwired one because you want it to work when you're sitting in the guy's car. Not messing with stuff on your phone/laptop going 'it worked yesterday, why not now?'. Holy SH*% that's cheap lol! I didn't realize they had come down in price so much.. That's getting added to my Amazon car right now lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 Quality models from bigger brand names are usually $50+, and anything that does live reading, or translates the code to text on screen etc is ~$150-300. But for a basic DIY'er, the no-name special should get the job done. If you go out there and it's got codes stored, and you both learn the light 'must be burned out', I'd call that a pretty big red flag. By the ad, I'd think the owner should know to look for codes, or have at least wondered about the CEL light. It's interesting that it isn't mentioned at all in the ad, but there is talk about MAF, ETM, FWD, etc. It's possible they've just never gotten in to the diagnostic aspect, but I'd call that reasonably suspicious if they claim they never knew anything about a light or codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdog Posted October 8, 2016 Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 OP, have you ever bought a non-running vehicle? It's a big gamble; you have to assume the seller is lying about what he knows (and is telling you) about the car. A non-running car could have any number of serious issues which will quickly become evident once you're actually able to drive the car. i.e. don't assume the trans works, or the suspension is not shot, or the frame's not bent, or etc. etc. You may get lucky and score big-time, but you need to know what to look for, and like FB said, watch out for the red flags going up.. Beyond all that, are you aware of all the known issues with this vintage? They're numerous.. That looks to be a 421 paint code (dark olive pearl) which is very attractive; best color these cars came in IMO, but don't let that seduce you. Unless you want it for parts and/or willing to gamble, I would walk. FWIW. ..and aren't those 850 turbo wheels on there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
540i6speed Posted October 8, 2016 Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 Hey this is my car for sale. I'm usually on here for my 850 but have never posted about the v70. It does have 850 turbo wheels, the v70 had 15" wheels stock and i moved these over from my 850. The car is really nice I just haven't kept up on the maintenance this year due to having so many other car projects, so it is needing the pcv job done, motor mount, and oil leak fixed. Other than what i'm guessing is a sensor issue the car is great as far as the suspension, transmission, and everything else which is why i think i'm better off trying to fix the car and then either sell it drivable or part it out if i'm unsuccessful after a couple hundred into it. I get buying a non-running car is such a gamble, so everyone that looks at it will probably assume the worst and that everything else is shot. I haven't done much diagnostic work on it, I have other vehicles to drive and haven't had much motivation to work on the v70 especially not knowing exactly whats wrong. I did check the charge pipes and checked that fuel was spraying from the test port, i don't have a fuel test gauge though. Would a failing fuel pump cause these symptoms or do they usually just stop working? It kinda feels like its running out of fuel, but it will idle all day. I have replaced the ETM before but the symptoms were different, now it will idle steady where as the ETM failing gave me the jumping idle. I'm surprised it has no CEL and i remember it also had no CEL on when i replaced the ETM . Is the light supposed to come on 2-3 secs when ignition is first turned on? Maybe it was messed with when traded into the dealer i got it from since i think it needed an etm at that time. I know the dealer and he wouldn't tamper with it over a relatively low $ sale. I have lost my elm327 bluetooth, does anyone know if there is a way to pull codes using my VAG-COM 409.1 cable with any free software on windows? I have the cable for tuning my 850 but know the 99+ is different. I don't think the op is still interested and I only have one other interested who hasn't come to see it yet so I'm going to start working on it soon, ill start with trying to get codes, then a maf if no codes. I kinda hate to sell it and have thought about selling my 850 instead but i just have way too much time and $ into it. Then i also have another 850 i'm parting out, 2 trucks(one is a project too 66 c10), and I'm getting an 2010 murano passed down from family to replace the v70 as my daily driver as soon as i can make room for it so something has to go soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_nater Posted October 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2016 On October 7, 2016 at 10:59 PM, gdog said: OP, have you ever bought a non-running vehicle? It's a big gamble; you have to assume the seller is lying about what he knows (and is telling you) about the car. A non-running car could have any number of serious issues which will quickly become evident once you're actually able to drive the car. i.e. don't assume the trans works, or the suspension is not shot, or the frame's not bent, or etc. etc. You may get lucky and score big-time, but you need to know what to look for, and like FB said, watch out for the red flags going up.. Beyond all that, are you aware of all the known issues with this vintage? They're numerous.. That looks to be a 421 paint code (dark olive pearl) which is very attractive; best color these cars came in IMO, but don't let that seduce you. Unless you want it for parts and/or willing to gamble, I would walk. FWIW. ..and aren't those 850 turbo wheels on there? Buying non-running vehicles has kinda become a hobby of mine lol.. Bought a '79 BMW e21 and a '98 XC70 within the last year that both needed work. I sadly no longer have either but I'm used to buying vehicles and fixing them up. I have a pretty good ones for telling when a seller is BS'ing or being honest. I'm also aware of the electrical/computer issues these can have but this one seems to be pretty solid and have been well maintained. I think it's a good buy for me for the $. Hoping to bring it home tuesday. On October 8, 2016 at 2:07 PM, 540i6speed said: Hey this is my car for sale. I'm usually on here for my 850 but have never posted about the v70. It does have 850 turbo wheels, the v70 had 15" wheels stock and i moved these over from my 850. The car is really nice I just haven't kept up on the maintenance this year due to having so many other car projects, so it is needing the pcv job done, motor mount, and oil leak fixed. Other than what i'm guessing is a sensor issue the car is great as far as the suspension, transmission, and everything else which is why i think i'm better off trying to fix the car and then either sell it drivable or part it out if i'm unsuccessful after a couple hundred into it. I get buying a non-running car is such a gamble, so everyone that looks at it will probably assume the worst and that everything else is shot. I haven't done much diagnostic work on it, I have other vehicles to drive and haven't had much motivation to work on the v70 especially not knowing exactly whats wrong. I did check the charge pipes and checked that fuel was spraying from the test port, i don't have a fuel test gauge though. Would a failing fuel pump cause these symptoms or do they usually just stop working? It kinda feels like its running out of fuel, but it will idle all day. I have replaced the ETM before but the symptoms were different, now it will idle steady where as the ETM failing gave me the jumping idle. I'm surprised it has no CEL and i remember it also had no CEL on when i replaced the ETM . Is the light supposed to come on 2-3 secs when ignition is first turned on? Maybe it was messed with when traded into the dealer i got it from since i think it needed an etm at that time. I know the dealer and he wouldn't tamper with it over a relatively low $ sale. I have lost my elm327 bluetooth, does anyone know if there is a way to pull codes using my VAG-COM 409.1 cable with any free software on windows? I have the cable for tuning my 850 but know the 99+ is different. I don't think the op is still interested and I only have one other interested who hasn't come to see it yet so I'm going to start working on it soon, ill start with trying to get codes, then a maf if no codes. I kinda hate to sell it and have thought about selling my 850 instead but i just have way too much time and $ into it. Then i also have another 850 i'm parting out, 2 trucks(one is a project too 66 c10), and I'm getting an 2010 murano passed down from family to replace the v70 as my daily driver as soon as i can make room for it so something has to go soon. Didn't realize you were on here. lol. Thanks for the info and clarifying some things. Not sure why you didn't think I was interested in the car any more but I definitely still want it for that price. Looking forward to seeing you Tuesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdog Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Well heck, a fellow VS'r you say; that's changes everything.. Fuel pressure related issues often don't set codes; I would ck that first.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyBrickIsSlow Posted October 16, 2016 Report Share Posted October 16, 2016 Unplug the MAF and see if it starts. I just went through the exact symptom with my 2000 coupe. I was able to get it up to temp by working the throttle, but it would die once up to temp at the slightest touch of the go peddle. When the MAF was unplugged it would start and stay running when cold. My circumstance turned out to be the intake tube not fully seated on the compressor housing. However the same symptom can occur with a bad MAF. Either scenario can happen without a CEL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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