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Question about the clutch and cluster


Brad2015

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Hello,

 

I have two questions in regards to my newly acquired 2003 Volvo S60 n/a manual.

I bought the car knowing it will need a clutch job. I got a LUK clutch kit. Installation went well, doing it in an apartment complex lot with limited light is no fun but we did it. I bled the clutch with a power bleeder but the clutch pedal still feels kind of soft. The car drives fine but it feels like there is barely any resistance especially comparing to my truck. Do volvos generally have soft clutch pedals or should I maybe reverse bleed the clutch?

 

Another issue I am having is the cluster goes out at random. I know it's an internal issue. I found a cluster at a local junk yard that's within 2000 mile range to mine in terms of odometer reading but it's from an automatic car. Are the two compatible or do I need a cluster strictly from another manual s60? 

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Yes on the reverse bleed,

as far as the cluster goes, see if you can tighten the screws holding it in, I removed mine for a different reason and didn't put loctite on the screws when I put it back and a few days later they'd vibrated enough that bumps would knock my cluster lights on and off

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Your old clutch was worn and as the clutch disk friction material wears, the clutch cover must position the pressure plate closer to the flywheel to compensate for the disk thickness reduction. This results in a geometry change in the diaphragm spring that will raise the pedal effort required to release the clutch. Most new clutch jobs will result in a softer pedal. If the pedal engagement point is low, then definitely bleed it again.

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@ihatespeedbumps:  Interesting video.  This is first I've seen or heard of reverse pwr bleeding a clutch slave.  I've never bled a volvo clutch hydraulics, but did tons of bmw's back in my days as a tech.  As I remember, never had an issue when using a pwr bleeder, but IIRC I would slowly pump the pedal while it was being bled by the pwr bleeder.  The pressure applied by the pwr bleeder, combined with the pumping action, was always sufficient to blow out any obstructions or air pockets.

Another point; if you're going to use an oil can pump, make sure there is no oil or any other petroleum products in it!  Be a shame to contaminate a new system..

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@gdogthis is the ONLY way to effectively bleed Volvo clutches. Done in the old fashioned way on other cars, these were always difficult or impossible without reverse bleeding. In regards to the oil can it was purchased solely for this job, no concerns of cross contamination.

@Brad2015 transmission disposition does not effect the cluster, you should be concerned with matching the OEM part numbers. A great alternative would be to have xemodex rebuild it though.

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I've failed to mention that I tried to reflow the original cluster but with no success. I've done abs modules and other electronics in the past but this time it went from working sometimes to just being blank, minus the check engine light which illuminates before starting the car. I find it odd that I lost my windows, blinkers, keyless and ability to turn off climate which I am sure they all tie into the cluster. I checked the fuses but everything is fine. Is there something else that controls power to all these?

i do not have access to vida

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