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Installed new ETM, car immediately dies.


VIV

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15 minutes ago, RigsPGT said:

Mine would start and die immediately but that's how I bought the car so I had to start with ETM first (Vida didn't show any MAF code, nor the OBD2 scanner). After replacing the ETM CEL finally showed up and it was a MAF sensor code. Bought one off Ebay (used oem) and car has been running since. Did you check for any vacuum leaks? Non metered air could throw off the ECU and make it difficult for it to correct A/F ratio when MAF and O2 sensor are contradicting each other.

 

Yes I checked for leaks before I even went with the new ETM, initially I thought that was the problem due to the car jerking while driving. I'm picking up a new MAF in a few hours, hopefully that will fix it. 

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Don't get a generic one, instead use OEM on the MAF sensor, heck even used in working condition. if that doesn't work, well smth must have gone bad with the ETM or there's an software issue. It bothers me to hear the car ran fine for a day which might throw off the ETM itself being faulty. Do you have anyone you might know in your area with a Vida Dice scanner? That might show a thing or two otherwise you'll be replacing parts without any good result.

 

BTW, do an ECM reset and see if things change.

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29 minutes ago, RigsPGT said:

Don't get a generic one, instead use OEM on the MAF sensor, heck even used in working condition. if that doesn't work, well smth must have gone bad with the ETM or there's an software issue. It bothers me to hear the car ran fine for a day which might throw off the ETM itself being faulty. Do you have anyone you might know in your area with a Vida Dice scanner? That might show a thing or two otherwise you'll be replacing parts without any good result.

 

BTW, do an ECM reset and see if things change.

So I was reading through this and went back out to work, still nothing. So, I did what I should have done from the beginning, and that is work through the problem with the most basic issue first and get more complicated from there. I ignored the ETM and acted as though it was a good part. Pushed in the tit on the fuel rail and didn't even get a drip of fuel to come out. I ordered another fuel pump relay, and I'm going to get a new MAF as well, but obviously I'm having some sort of fuel issue. Hopefully it's the relay, otherwise I have to trace back to the pump and fix that, which I'm not looking forward to doing. Moral of the story: always start from the beginning and do not assume anything. Car mechanics 101. I don't know if AutoZone will let me use a scanner for free, that would be my only option there because I would have to get my car towed up there just to get it read.

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Final Update

Ended up being the Fuel Pump Relay. Checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail and no gas spurted out (Should have heeded gdog's advice from the very beginning). Ran a jumper wire between pin 15 and 87 where the relay went (labeled on the relay itself), car fired right up and idled steady at 900 rpm. Bought a new relay, plugged it in, car is running great. Also went ahead and replaced the MAF since so many have pointed out that their's went bad within 5000 miles of replacing the ETM (Bought a rebuilt one at AutoZone for $110, Volvo quoted me at $280 for new.) So in all, I replaced the Engine Management Relay ($20), Fuel Pump Relay ($60), and MAF ($110), but only the Fuel Pump Relay was bad. Just my luck that it went bad 25 miles after replacing the ETM. That's what really threw me off, but just goes to show that I should always start at square 1 for each new problem to save my time and money:ed:. Thanks to all of those that helped, it is sincerely appreciated. 

 

-VIV

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Wish i had followed this earlier, would have suggested the relay first.  Had my pump relay go bad after 360k and got all sorts of ETM codes because of it even after the ETM upgrade. Glad you found this cheapest issue, i now point the relay first thing when people have stalling issues. Interesting how codes can be set because of other issues, can make for chasing your tail situation. 

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