woah4 Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Hey everyone, I could really use some help. my 2001 V70XC spun the number 5 rod bearing and toasted the 2.4T that was in it, so this past weekend I found a replacement and put it in, in my parents yard with the help of some friends lol. It's a 2004 RN 2.3 T5 with blue injectors and 16T turbo from a V70. Everything I know about this swap, and these cars in general, says that this should be a completely direct swap, and while it won't perform any better than the 2.4T without a tune it will run totally fine. Well, mine isn't. It idles almost perfectly, but runs almost as though it hits a rev limiter at 1500rpm, sometimes it will rev to 2000, but never any more. I have tried replacing the plugs, the coil packs, unplugging the maf (improves idle, but no other change) switching to the stock orange injectors and back, switching cam position sensor, crank position sensor, unplugging the front O2 sensor, unplugging the coolant temp sensor, all to no avail. It still does the same thing. It runs on all cylinder too, as you can hear a change in how it runs by unplugging any of the coil packs. We also tried changing the VVT solenoid, just because we were running out of options, and again, nothing. If you hold the throttle wide open it will backfire and spit bad enough that there were flames exiting the exhaust tip at one point. I have just about run out of options at this point and could really use any other opinions that people have, cheers Billy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Which ETM are you using? Volvo changed the ETM on the 03+ models and the newer units are not compatible with the older ME7 (99-02) models. You'll need to use the throttle that came with the car. Additionally, ensure the ETM ground on the front of the block, under the intake manifold is clean and free of voltage drop. Do you have access to VIDA? Speaking from firsthand experience here - a poor ground there caused serious rough running and inability to rev when we M66 swapped Apeacock's R in April. Spent some time scratching our heads and trying stuff to no avail, hooked up VIDA and were able to diagnose an unresponsive ETM. From there it was a fairly simple process to troubleshoot the ETM operation via the flowchart on Xemodex's website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 55 minutes ago, andyb5 said: Which ETM are you using? Volvo changed the ETM on the 03+ models and the newer units are not compatible with the older ME7 (99-02) models. You'll need to use the throttle that came with the car. Additionally, ensure the ETM ground on the front of the block, under the intake manifold is clean and free of voltage drop. Do you have access to VIDA? Speaking from firsthand experience here - a poor ground there caused serious rough running and inability to rev when we M66 swapped Apeacock's R in April. Spent some time scratching our heads and trying stuff to no avail, hooked up VIDA and were able to diagnose an unresponsive ETM. From there it was a fairly simple process to troubleshoot the ETM operation via the flowchart on Xemodex's website. Thanks for the heads up, I am using the ETM that came with the car, it is a yellow label and was changed fairly recently, my new engine never came with a throttle body. I thought my ground was good but that sounds like my issue so I will take it off and clean it and see if it helps, thanks Andy. The ground you are referring to I would assume is the one above the starter motor right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Yup, that's the ground I'm talking about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 36 minutes ago, andyb5 said: Yup, that's the ground I'm talking about Alrighty, I'll try and take it off and clean it up and see where that takes me, thanks. Any other tips or tricks to get the car out of limp mode? From my research it almost sounds like that's what it is stuck in, but it's weird since it doesn't throw any codes either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Is it throwing codes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruecatinat Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 To echo Andy, do you have VIDA / DiCE? It can be rather helpful to run tests on individual modules and pull hard codes that may not show up on a generic ODB II scanner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 51 minutes ago, Commander Riker said: Is it throwing codes? No codes thrown, other than ones I create when I unplug sensors. With everything plugged in, CEL is off and no codes are present on my scanner, though it is simply a generic scanner. 28 minutes ago, ruecatinat said: To echo Andy, do you have VIDA / DiCE? It can be rather helpful to run tests on individual modules and pull hard codes that may not show up on a generic ODB II scanner I ordered a vida/dice today, but don't currently have one. Using my generic obd2 scanner nothing is present that I don't create. Two things I do notice however are the boost control solenoid constantly clicking (though I don't know how that could be related) and once in a awhile, but very infrequently, it will flash ALL dash warning lights, with the exception of the CEL.... it's throwing me through a loop. Also as a side note, I should mention I have 13.8V at Idle, so I suspect the charging system should be cleared of fault also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruecatinat Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 1 hour ago, woah4 said: No codes thrown, other than ones I create when I unplug sensors. With everything plugged in, CEL is off and no codes are present on my scanner, though it is simply a generic scanner. I ordered a vida/dice today, but don't currently have one. Using my generic obd2 scanner nothing is present that I don't create. Two things I do notice however are the boost control solenoid constantly clicking (though I don't know how that could be related) and once in a awhile, but very infrequently, it will flash ALL dash warning lights, with the exception of the CEL.... it's throwing me through a loop. Also as a side note, I should mention I have 13.8V at Idle, so I suspect the charging system should be cleared of fault also Shouldn't be charging system. Do you have a vacuum leak? When does your VIDA/DiCE arrive? I have one but I don't think you want to limp a car all the way down to my area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 1 hour ago, ruecatinat said: Shouldn't be charging system. Do you have a vacuum leak? When does your VIDA/DiCE arrive? I have one but I don't think you want to limp a car all the way down to my area. It wouldn't limp there anyway, literally will not go above 1500rpm and stutters and bumps any time above idle, but I do appreciate the offer! Vida/dice will be late November 👎🏻 No vacuum leaks that I can tell, sprayed half a can of brake clean all over the place and it doesn't change sound at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyBrickIsSlow Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 What was the condition of the 16t? Do you have a boost gauge installed? Is the brake clean you used one of the non-flammable brands? (Silly but I will ask anyway) Does the idle climb to 1500rpm rough or smooth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 1 hour ago, MyBrickIsSlow said: What was the condition of the 16t? Do you have a boost gauge installed? Is the brake clean you used one of the non-flammable brands? (Silly but I will ask anyway) Does the idle climb to 1500rpm rough or smooth? 16T was used but still in useable shape, swapped the cbv and wastegate actuator from the 13T over also as they seemed to be in better shape and were known to work. No boost gauge, but I can hear the Cbv release pressure if I get off the throttle so I know it is building some anyway. Fair question, it is a flammable brand lol. Idle stays constant around 1000rpm, only goes to 1500rpm with throttle input and then it can be jerky and Eratic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 Here is a video of what the car is doing, maybe it will help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domo Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 sounds like its not running on all five cylinders, I had a problem like this on another car, threw no codes at all did a lot of research and took a chance on crank position sensor, fixed it turned out oil was leaking into and around crank position sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 31 minutes ago, Domo said: sounds like its not running on all five cylinders, I had a problem like this on another car, threw no codes at all did a lot of research and took a chance on crank position sensor, fixed it turned out oil was leaking into and around crank position sensor. It does run on all 5 though that's the weird thing, or at idle at least. If I unplug the coil packs one at a time I can hear a change in engine note with it at idle, from every cylinder. It also seems like the computer is telling the engine to hold back, because I took the throttle pipe off and just for curiosity sake had my friend hold the throttle pedal wide open, the throttle body plate barely opened at all and I tried opening it more with my finger in case it was stuck or something and it kept closing itself with the motor, so it seems to me as though the computer is telling the throttle body not to open all the way, which is why I think limp mode, it's super weird anyway that's for sure lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.