phunktified Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 Did u do a comp test? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 1 hour ago, phunktified said: Did u do a comp test? Not myself, but I bought the engine from a wreckers pre tested and with warranty so it shouldn't be a concern, again the issue seems to be electrical, because it idles almost perfectly and disconnecting the coil packs for each cylinder makes an audible difference so it is running on all cylinders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedrill Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 Check the coil pack wires are on the correct coils, I bought a c70 that someone had mixed up the plugs on a couple of cylinders..it sounded the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 7 hours ago, thedrill said: Check the coil pack wires are on the correct coils, I bought a c70 that someone had mixed up the plugs on a couple of cylinders..it sounded the same. I will play with that today, a friend of mine said the same thing, anything is possible but I will be pretty surprised because the harness is pretty stiff and formed to the shape I removed it from, but I will give it a shot for sure! Did it have the same issue with revving up also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 Update; cleaned the ground under the intake manifold, the two grounds by the coil packs, and the engine to chassis ground on the back of the head, all to no avail. Also tried switching coil plug wires, and it only made the situation worse. Tried unplugging the knock sensors, and interestingly enough this made zero change, didn't even set a code. I checked all fuses and none are blown, and I tried cleaning the positive connection at the battery boost point. The car still throws no codes at all, except for the mass air flow sensor because I have it unplugged. If I plug it back in, the car does not die right away, but instead starts dropping in idle and picking back up again after around 10 seconds of smooth running, until it stalls off. While plugged in the rpms still will not exceed 1500-2000. When a car is in limp mode, are the rpms typically limited like this? I have tried leaving the battery disconnected for around half an hour in an effort to reset the Ecu without success also, but I can't seem to find the typical symptoms of "limp mode" anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyBrickIsSlow Posted November 13, 2016 Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 It looks and sounds like un-metered air to me. Charge pipe, intake pipe, ets gasket, etc. Assuming all your sensors are functioning appropriately. Temp sensor could also be a culprit, if its not reading then the ecm wont add extra fuel for cold start. But if this were the case, then the issue should be less severe once the engine is up to temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ol' Dirty Noodle Posted November 13, 2016 Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 Might sound crazy but try starting and holding idle around 850rpms with your foot for 15 min, that's what I had to do with my S40 when I swapped the ecu set, all of a sudden RPMs started climbing and I slowly backed off the throttle and it held a perfect idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2016 4 hours ago, Ol' Dirty Noodle said: Might sound crazy but try starting and holding idle around 850rpms with your foot for 15 min, that's what I had to do with my S40 when I swapped the ecu set, all of a sudden RPMs started climbing and I slowly backed off the throttle and it held a perfect idle. That's the weird thing, it does hold a perfect idle, it just won't do much more than idle. And it is the ecm that was originally in the car, rather than the one from the engine. 4 hours ago, MyBrickIsSlow said: It looks and sounds like un-metered air to me. Charge pipe, intake pipe, ets gasket, etc. Assuming all your sensors are functioning appropriately. Temp sensor could also be a culprit, if its not reading then the ecm wont add extra fuel for cold start. But if this were the case, then the issue should be less severe once the engine is up to temp. The misfire does get better as the engine gets warmer, but would the coolant temp sensor create a condition that can actually limit the rpm like this? The gauge on the dash still functions properly as well. I have double and triple checked all my hose connections as well, everything is good, I have even tried disconnecting the pipes in various spots to see if that made any difference, and it didn't. I would think unplugging the maf should help in that situation too, but no matter what the car still doesn't rev up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venderbroeck Posted November 14, 2016 Report Share Posted November 14, 2016 Did you ever try a different maf? Without the maf plugged in it's never going to run properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2016 25 minutes ago, venderbroeck said: Did you ever try a different maf? Without the maf plugged in it's never going to run properly. Not yet, I think that's next on my list. I'm waiting for my dice now so that hopefully I can see what the car is thinking before I start throwing too much money at it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venderbroeck Posted November 14, 2016 Report Share Posted November 14, 2016 I would try to find someone closeby who has roughly the same car before buying new stuff. Or maybe try to find some sensors at the wreckers or smth. Throwing new parts at it can get pretty expensive even with a dice unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2016 1 hour ago, venderbroeck said: I would try to find someone closeby who has roughly the same car before buying new stuff. Or maybe try to find some sensors at the wreckers or smth. Throwing new parts at it can get pretty expensive even with a dice unit. Yeah that's my concern, im just pissed because it ran totally fine before I took it apart haha. I'll have to try and make a trip to the wrecker this weekend, get a MAF and maybe an ETM or two Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyBrickIsSlow Posted November 14, 2016 Report Share Posted November 14, 2016 The temp sensor would not prevent the car from revving once up to temp. but could while still cold. Have you let it get to running temp? If you are not throwing codes unless you unplug things, it has to be un-metered air, mistimed spark, or unregulated fuel, derived from a mechanical problem. Air is usually the most common suspect. I have had the same scenario with a new MAF and a leak in the system. I could rev to about 2000 rpm, This goes without saying, but until you have the proper diagnosis equipment all you can do is look for the easy and obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2016 4 minutes ago, MyBrickIsSlow said: The temp sensor would not prevent the car from revving once up to temp. but could while still cold. Have you let it get to running temp? If you are not throwing codes unless you unplug things, it has to be un-metered air, mistimed spark, or unregulated fuel, derived from a mechanical problem. Air is usually the most common suspect. I have had the same scenario with a new MAF and a leak in the system. I could rev to about 2000 rpm, This goes without saying, but until you have the proper diagnosis equipment all you can do is look for the easy and obvious. Yeah that's what I've been trying to do lol. Being coil on plug I'm not sure how the ignition timing could be off, and I've tried two different fuel rails with injectors and regulators and had no change. I have had the car running for around 45 mins to bleed the cooling system, it has been well up to temp a few times now, no difference. I have sprayed all the intake pipes with brake clean to see if I could get it to change and it has done nothing, I'll have to try again though and make sure I'm not missing anything I guess. Anything is possible, I'll have a look again this Friday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyBrickIsSlow Posted November 14, 2016 Report Share Posted November 14, 2016 Silly question #2: When you look down at the ETM can you see the sticker? Do you have a small mirror you can used to take a look at the charge pipe connection to the etm and the etm to plenum seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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