XC70 T5 Swap

[woah4]

52 minutes ago, MyBrickIsSlow said:

Silly question #2: When you look down at the ETM can you see the sticker? Do you have a small mirror you can used to take a look at the charge pipe connection to the etm and the etm to plenum seal?

Yep, yellow sticker facing the rad, I never removed the ETM from the manifold so the seal there should not have changed, it's the manifold and ETM originally from the car, the connection from the pipe to etm is good

[woah4]

I'm starting to get REALLY fed up with this car. Still don't have my dice, but I went to the wrecking yard today and got a spare ETM (yellow label, from a 2000 S80 T6) and a spare Maf.

first thing I tried was plugging in the new maf, zero change from the maf I already had in the car. Great.

Then I started pulling everything apart to pull off the ETM, and I find that the hose on the throttle body has gotten damaged, and isn't sealing right. No matter, I have a spare! This makes me hopeful, but I still don't get why it never showed itself when I was spraying it down with brake clean.. anyway, put the new hose on and now it idles with the Maf connected, but still won't rev up. So I take everything back apart and swap the ETM, and still absolutely no change. The only improvement I had today was that it now idles with the maf installed whereas before it would die, probably because of the intake pipe. I FINALLY got it to run over 1500 rpm today though, by pedalling the gas pedal it would run 4500rpm, but it was clearly misfiring and triggered two codes for "knock sensor high input". 

Still fights to rev up, and my gauge cluster still flashes all the warning lights except the check engine at me. And today the screen that shows the gear selection decided to quit too. I'm really starting to hate this damn car.

Heres a video I took when I finally got it to rev up somewhat, and trust me it's not easy getting it to do so. If anyone has any more ideas I'm all ears, I'm running out of ideas myself.

 

 

[Ol' Dirty Noodle]

Sounds as though something is seriously wrong internally beyond your other problems and you're starting to kill that motor, also I'm curious as to why/how the t5 and t6 would have the same MAF/ETM

[woah4]

6 minutes ago, Ol' Dirty Noodle said:

Sounds as though something is seriously wrong internally beyond your other problems and you're starting to kill that motor, also I'm curious as to why/how the t5 and t6 would have the same MAF/ETM

Still runs at idle perfectly with no miss or anything. I'm completely confused at this point. It's backfiring and spitting as if it has a two step rev limiter on it. I think the engine is still good mechanically as I can't imagine I would run as good as it does at idle otherwise. From what I read any 99-02 ETM is interchangeable assuming it's a turbo ETM and it worked totally fine for me today, no change from the other ETM that was in the car, though I will probably swap them back and keep this one as a spare anyway as the one that was in the car is one of the refurbished ones from Xenodex and is fairly new

[woah4]

Also should note, not an S80 MAF, it's a C70 MAF

[Ol' Dirty Noodle]

52 minutes ago, woah4 said:

Also should note, not an S80 MAF, it's a C70 MAF

Yea no way anything t6 works on a t5,  tbh though just cuz it idles good doesn't mean it's not knocking like crazy when you start reving it

[woah4]

10 minutes ago, Ol' Dirty Noodle said:

Yea no way anything t6 works on a t5,  tbh though just cuz it idles good doesn't mean it's not knocking like crazy when you start reving it

I'm sure that a T6 maf would not work but the ETM seems to work no problem at all. And I know what you are saying, I'm sure it doesn't come through very well in the video, but it's not rod knock, I know that for a fact because that's exactly what the old engine was doing lol. It's definitely spark knock, the car backfires and on occasion I can hear it coming back out the intake. It's as though the ignition timing is WAY off but I can't imagine what would cause that with it being coil on plug, I have already tried two different cam position sensors and it still triggers no codes (with the exception of the knock sensors at higher rpm, but I would think that is because they are picking up the detonation)

[MyBrickIsSlow]

I had a s80 etm on my 99 v70 (r.i.p) for the last couple of years I owned it and it worked flawlessly.

Backfires through the intake are another sign of un-metered air. I hope you figure it out man.

[woah4]

2 hours ago, Ol' Dirty Noodle said:

 

1 hour ago, MyBrickIsSlow said:

I had a s80 etm on my 99 v70 (r.i.p) for the last couple of years I owned it and it worked flawlessly.

Backfires through the intake are another sign of un-metered air. I hope you figure it out man.

Thanks man. Yeah I'm hoping it's still something simple but I don't know at this point. I don't want to risk damaging it by running it more until I get the dice, but I need to get this dang thing sorted out. 

[andyb5]

Here's a potentially dumb question. What plugs and what gap are you using?

 

[woah4]

2 hours ago, andyb5 said:

Here's a potentially dumb question. What plugs and what gap are you using?

 

Never a dumb question, I appreciate any help I can get. I have had three different sets in the car, all with the same results. The engine had a set of Volvo plugs in it that didn't look very good, I switched them for the new-ish NGK iridiums that were in the 2.4 that was in the car (I don't personally like these plugs anyway in turbo cars but I wanted to try them) and finally I switched to a brand new set of Bosch platinums (no coppers available when I bought them) gapped at 0.28

[Ol' Dirty Noodle]

Get OEM coppers however you can

[woah4]

35 minutes ago, Ol' Dirty Noodle said:

Get OEM coppers however you can

I intend to eventually, they are definitely my plug of choice also, but I have run these plugs before without issue except for some spark blowout at high rpm with a 19T and since I have tried three different sets I would not expect them to be the issue in this case

[gdog]

late to this thread but just read the whole thing...

That engine is NOT idling perfect; it's missing on at least 1, 2, or more cylinders from what I heard in your vids.  Maybe not consistently, but nevertheless..  And why are all those dash lights flashing?  I've never owned a P2 car so don't know what that indicates?

My thoughts:

1. Check the compression; don't assume it's good because you think it idles.
2. Double ck all your engine electrical connections.  It almost acts like some connector is plugged into a wrong mate.
3. Ck for vacuum leaks but use carb-clean instead of brake-clean.  Brake-clean does not burn; carb-clean does (make sure you get the pretrol based stuff).  When you spray something that burns over a vacuum leak, your idle speed will change.  What about your idle vacuum; checked that?
4. If none of that yields anything, ck the fuel pressure.

[woah4]

47 minutes ago, gdog said:

late to this thread but just read the whole thing...

That engine is NOT idling perfect; it's missing on at least 1, 2, or more cylinders from what I heard in your vids.  Maybe not consistently, but nevertheless..  And why are all those dash lights flashing?  I've never owned a P2 car so don't know what that indicates?

My thoughts:

1. Check the compression; don't assume it's good because you think it idles.
2. Double ck all your engine electrical connections.  It almost acts like some connector is plugged into a wrong mate.
3. Ck for vacuum leaks but use carb-clean instead of brake-clean.  Brake-clean does not burn; carb-clean does (make sure you get the pretrol based stuff).  When you spray something that burns over a vacuum leak, your idle speed will change.  What about your idle vacuum; checked that?
4. If none of that yields anything, ck the fuel pressure.

I also don't know what the dash lights are, and I can't find anything related to them from an internet search. I don't have a good video showing the idle, I'll have to get one. I can assure you the idle is steady, and fires on all cylinders, unplugging coil packs individually makes a change in note also, regardless of which pack, to back that up. I'm familiar with how these cars sound, this is my 7th Volvo, all of which have been whiteblocks and quite a few have Been heavily modified, I don't want to come across as someone new to these cars. I agree and I will likely do a compression test anyway, but I was sold the engine tested and guaranteed so it was on the bottom of my list. I have double and triple checked the electrical connectors and everything seems tight and correct, again it's strange because I still have no codes visible to me with my obd2 reader unless I create one by unplugging sensors myself. My brake clean is flammable but I get your point and will probably get something more potent. A vacuum gauge is probably going to be my next step, I'll just have to pick one up. I have used two different fuel rails complete with regulators and injectors with no difference, the misfire sounds more like ignition cutting out rather than a lack of fuel because it smells rich and it does on occasion backfire, but I will certainly measure it if nothing else pans out. I appreciate the input