andyb5 Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 Jason, I love the new color. Is it dipped or wrapped? How is it to wash and keep clean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted March 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2017 On 2/28/2017 at 6:10 AM, andyb5 said: Jason, I love the new color. Is it dipped or wrapped? How is it to wash and keep clean? It's dipped. About 5 layer of Gunmetal, and 3 layer of a Peal/Black combo. It's easy to wash actually: I use a soap I got from DYC and wash it just like you would a normal painted car. Then, after it's dry, I use a Dip treatment that makes it less rubbery feeling (also from DYC). It's holding up ok, there are a few scratches and bubbles here and there (and lots of overspray in places), but it looks good from 10 feet away; which is what I was going for anyway. I spend last weekend replacing the last bit of factory Positive power wire in the car. The bit that goes from the battery to the Main Fuse box by the Brake Booster. The line that ran to the starter was replaced when the engine was out. But, I didn't replace this one because it looked fine at the time. But, over time the lines started to corrode, which cased the battery terminals to also corrode. I replaced the (4) 12ga lines with (2) 8ga simply because my aftermarket battery terminals have 2 8ga openings and I was tired of seeing 2 12ga shoved into each one. A shot of the old lines: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted March 31, 2017 Report Share Posted March 31, 2017 Cool thanks for the info Jason. Nice work with the battery cables - that's one of those projects I've been planning on dealing with but haven't started yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Alright, found the coolant leak! The drain return line was leaking from the turbo banjo bolt. Gave it a good tightening and took a look around to make sure that was the only place it was leaking while I was down there. So, after three weeks of it being parked because I was afraid it would blow a hose or something while I was driving around turned out to be a bit... overprotective. But, that's how I roll: Leaking oil, PHHHTT whatever. Leaking coolant, PARKTHATBIATCH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 On 3/30/2017 at 8:05 PM, FrankenMoose said: It's dipped. About 5 layer of Gunmetal, and 3 layer of a Peal/Black combo. It's easy to wash actually: I use a soap I got from DYC and wash it just like you would a normal painted car. Then, after it's dry, I use a Dip treatment that makes it less rubbery feeling (also from DYC). It's holding up ok, there are a few scratches and bubbles here and there (and lots of overspray in places), but it looks good from 10 feet away; which is what I was going for anyway. I spend last weekend replacing the last bit of factory Positive power wire in the car. The bit that goes from the battery to the Main Fuse box by the Brake Booster. The line that ran to the starter was replaced when the engine was out. But, I didn't replace this one because it looked fine at the time. But, over time the lines started to corrode, which cased the battery terminals to also corrode. I replaced the (4) 12ga lines with (2) 8ga simply because my aftermarket battery terminals have 2 8ga openings and I was tired of seeing 2 12ga shoved into each one. A shot of the old lines: Do you have any pics of the new 8ga lines? I need to do a similar fix for a bundle of small gauge ground wires, so I'm looking for ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted May 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 On 5/12/2017 at 7:21 AM, Oreo931 said: Do you have any pics of the new 8ga lines? I need to do a similar fix for a bundle of small gauge ground wires, so I'm looking for ideas. I'll see what I can do. Most of the cable is in the factory sheathing, so shots of the battery side is all I may be able to get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted June 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 So, last weekend I took the car down to IPD for the annual garage sale and car show, hoping to drum up some interest in the car. But as usual, for me anyway, I have some trouble getting there: On the way down I lost the Clutch, like completely. I went to downshift from 6th when we encountered traffic and BAM the clutch pedal when straight tot he floor. I had to try to bring it back up with my foot by getting around the pedal arm and pulling. Once it was back up, I tried pumping it to get anything, but no go. I did get it down as far as 4th by rev matching, then pulled over at a gas station to try to figure out what happened. Pop'ed the hood, looked around at the clutch line... no leaks, and the line looked fine. There was however some gear oil coming out of the top of the M66. I think this was coincidental however, and it was related to my overfilling the trans with gear oil when I replace the passenger side seal and bevel collar when they were leaking about a year and a half ago. The car has not been driven for long periods of time (1.5hrs +) to get the trams hot enough to expel the extra fluid since it was put in (at least that is my theory). Anyway, we stood around the car for about 10 minutes wondering what the F was the problem. I can't remember who decided to get in the car and try to see if there was a hole in the line by pumping the clutch, but someone did. And it was back... Full use. Like it had never happened. We monitored the lines while depressing the clutch to see if there was to much flex or any issues; and there was movement and some minor flex in the rubber parts, but not leaks. So, we decided to continue on to Portland, but carefully. Here's what I found out: If I drove at excess of 70mph, I would start to loose the clutch, up to half of the stroke did nothing, with the clutch engaging almost at the floor. BUT.. if I drove at 65mph, the clutch was fine. No play and full use. I figure it is one of two things: Either there is air in the 1/8th of the line that runs from the bleed valve to the Slave Clutch (which is hard to bleed out, since it is after the bleed valve), or it is a faulty Slave Clutch. I drove it back to Seattle at a modest 65mph most of the way, and stopping a few times to rest. Now I'm going to try to bleed the clutch line again to see if that solves the issue. If not, it's a tear down to get to that Slave. JOY. And, the gear oil pouring out the trans is all over the back bumper and tailgate. It's deep in the Dip and will not come out. So, it looks like the Plasti-Dip is coming off as well... ('cause it looks like ASS back there...) Also, on a side note: I really didn't push that the car was for sale while at IPD since it was having issues. I do not sell cars that have issues. But, after talking over the lack of interest in the car as a whole, I am now milling over a possible part out of the car. Maybe selling off the good bits and systems, or Kits to install in others. In fact, I think the statement "People don't want to buy built Volvos. They want to buy stock Volvos and build them themselves." was said by a few people that weekend. Only pic I took at IPD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdog Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 3 hours ago, FrankenMoose said: So, last weekend I took the car down to IPD for the annual garage sale and car show.. Jeez, I didn't even make it this year.. which is unusual, since I'm local. Did i miss anything cool? Is it me or do they (ipd) need to do something about this event to create a bit more interest/excitement? Good luck with your clutch; does sound like air in the line; maybe exhaust is getting hot enough @ 70+ to cause the air to expand, etc.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted June 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Thanks, if I had the time, I'd wait it out and sell it as a built car. But, I am running out of time to get her gone; so a possible part out it could be... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 18 hours ago, FrankenMoose said: Maybe selling off the good bits and systems, or Kits to install in others. In fact, I think the statement "People don't want to buy built Volvos. They want to buy stock Volvos and build them themselves." was said by a few people that weekend. Dang. Does sound more like an issue with the slave than just air in the 'vent tube', but maybe you'll get lucky. Did you check around the base of the master (inside car, under boot/gaiter) for any signs of weepage? Definitely get more by selling 'kits' for others to use than selling the car whole, in my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Glad you were at least able to make the event. Very weird about the slave cylinder. You would think the opposite would happen if it was getting hot or something... binding up. Instead of dead pedaling. You're kind of confirming that our projects aren't worth to others what they are to us. If you do part her down, let me know... but a piece of me is hoping that doesn't happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted July 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 Well, it's come to this: After a short time for sale, and a shorter time frame to have it gone; I have realized that its not going to happen in time. With that said, its time for a... PART OUT!!!! I'm taking the car for one last hoorah this weekend to PNW WagonFest. The Dip has been removed from *most* if the car (still on the bumpers and side door trim), and the rear seat is back in the car. If it does not catch someones attention and get herself gone, she's going to have all the good parts removed, cataloged, and processed for shipping to the new owners, whoever they may be. I'll setup for sale posts for each system and they are defined: like Engine with port matched intake manifold; Transmission with Quafe LSD, cables, shifter, and pass axle, possibly the Bevel Gear if waned; Big Brake mounting kit and stainless steel lines (I may be keeping the Porsche Big Reds to put on my Audi allroad); etc. I'll try to get as much off the car in the next 3-4 weeks before the carcass is sold off. Then, the only thing I will try to replace is factory suspension parts and wheels to replace the Ohlins/IPD/TME setup so that the car can be rolled onto a flatbed when it comes time to get it gone. We'll see how WagonFest goes, but I'm pretty sure it will come to a part out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 It is unfortunate, but parting out is the way it was always going to happen. I don't think you have anything I want, but I will keep an eye on the thread. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredR1 Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 19 hours ago, FrankenMoose said: Well, it's come to this: After a short time for sale, and a shorter time frame to have it gone; I have realized that its not going to happen in time. With that said, its time for a... PART OUT!!!! I'm taking the car for one last hoorah this weekend to PNW WagonFest. The Dip has been removed from *most* if the car (still on the bumpers and side door trim), and the rear seat is back in the car. If it does not catch someones attention and get herself gone, she's going to have all the good parts removed, cataloged, and processed for shipping to the new owners, whoever they may be. I'll setup for sale posts for each system and they are defined: like Engine with port matched intake manifold; Transmission with Quafe LSD, cables, shifter, and pass axle, possibly the Bevel Gear if waned; Big Brake mounting kit and stainless steel lines (I may be keeping the Porsche Big Reds to put on my Audi allroad); etc. I'll try to get as much off the car in the next 3-4 weeks before the carcass is sold off. Then, the only thing I will try to replace is factory suspension parts and wheels to replace the Ohlins/IPD/TME setup so that the car can be rolled onto a flatbed when it comes time to get it gone. We'll see how WagonFest goes, but I'm pretty sure it will come to a part out. PM incoming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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