Jump to content
Volvospeed Forums

EST Downpipe


V70_R

Recommended Posts

Downpipe is installed. It took me 3 days to get it right. The dowmpipe sits on the other side of the ds. It sits near the tunnel but can be adjusted away enough. I had to relocate and weld the EGR tube and bend the lower connection in with a torch. I also welded the connection to the mid pipe as well because the fittings do not match the original exhaust coupling.

PITA, but I can hear the turbo breathing better. Pics to come.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Downpipe is installed.  It took me 3 days to get it right.  The dowmpipe sits on the other side of the ds.  It sits near the tunnel but can be adjusted away enough.  I had to relocate and weld the EGR tube and bend the lower connection in with a torch.  I also welded the connection to the mid pipe as well because the fittings do not match the original exhaust coupling.

PITA, but I can hear the turbo breathing better.  Pics to come.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Sweet! Congrats, now it's my turn to get in on!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Downpipe is installed.  It took me 3 days to get it right.  The dowmpipe sits on the other side of the ds.  It sits near the tunnel but can be adjusted away enough.  I had to relocate and weld the EGR tube and bend the lower connection in with a torch.  I also welded the connection to the mid pipe as well because the fittings do not match the original exhaust coupling.

PITA, but I can hear the turbo breathing better.  Pics to come.

Awesome!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 1998 V70R AWD (US market; auto trans). I bought an EST downpipe and went to a local muffler/brake shop to have it installed.

Here's the deal: we couldn't figure out how to remove the stock pipe without cutting it in half with a torch. The stock pipe makes an insane 180 degree turn right off the turbo to get over to the left side of the drive tunnel. Then it makes another turn to get back over to the right side. It's all one piece from the turbo flange to the midpipe--cat included. That makes it a bear to maneuver...we farted around with it for an hour trying to get it off in one piece--then I just said "cut-it".

The second problem is dis-connecting the O2 sensor lines---good luck! They made the connectors with some mysterious, counter-intuitive locking device--they go on but won't come off. It's bad enough that they are nearly impossible to reach.

The install of the EST downpipe/cat is easy--takes about 20 minutes. The union with the stock midpipe is just OK--the EST end is bigger than the stock midpipe end, so the clamp doesn't quite lock the two pipes together--you most likely will have leaks at this junction.

There is not much clearance for the rear O2 sensor, as the bung is angled so that the sensor wires bang up against the heat shield--that is a definite chaffing issue. After a while you will probably rub through the wire or it will break at the bend--giving you a "check engine". You might have to bend the hangers a bit to give it more room.

There is no way to re-attach the air injection pipe. This is a major issue, as your car will run with it disconnected but you will get a "check engine" light and your car will not pass emissions inspection.

The problem is the downpipe end of the air injection pipe has a compression fitting with a nut that has the same size thread as the bung on the downpipe...but we don't need a bung, we need a nipple--something to screw the air injection pipe onto.

I've searched a half dozen custom exhaust shops, auto parts shops, machine shops, in the area, and written to Frank, but nobody has this little bit of threaded pipe to make the connection.

If you try to remove the air injection pipe connection nipple from the stock downpipe you will see that the thread that goes into the downpipe is much smaller that the end that connects with the air pipe: so it's no good for using with the EST downpipe bung hole.

Right now I'm stuck--I'm going through the list of speed-shops in the area trying to find a solution. The problem seems to be that nobody has a bit of pipe with that thread--it's not pipe thread--it's metric, so don't think you can just get it at a plumbing supply...or any place that has pipe: it's not pipe.

UPDATE: Just got an email from Frank:

">>...There should have been a connector included in

your package which threads into the down pipe and then allows you to thread

the air pipe to the adapter."

Ok, that solves the mystery. Meanwhile, the last speed shop I was at suggested I try a McMaster catalogue.

51205k471_180x120.gif

This is like what I need, only the threads must be the same on both ends...same size metric thread as the O2 sensor....McMaster doesn't have it.

Failing that, I'm going to hire a machinist and see if I can have the piece made. A plain piece of steel pipe, just a few cm long and threaded from end to end would work fine. Two nuts locked together in the middle would serve as the "hex" bit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi gang...

I'm glad I found think string.......my downpipe is on it's way.  I've waited years for this....

I have a 1998 V70R AWD on which I've installed the factory MY '00 dual exhaust (had the IPD/TME exhaust but didn't like the droning noise in the cabin at crusing speeds: 2000-3000 rpms)

01.jpg

There is a Mustang AWD dyno near me so I can do a before/after.  I'll post the results here as a reference for all of us.

Back in Oct of 2003 when the car had ~70,000 miles I was there, but we had lots of trouble getting a decent pull (as anyone who has these cars and has tried it likely knows) because the trans keeps downshifting... finally I locked the transmission in the "W" mode, and the car pulled 195 HP and 203 lb.ft. torque.

That's with Sunoco Ultra (98 RON),  IPD ECU tuning, and MY 2000 volvo dual exhaust.  Temp was ~60 but everything was hot because we'd been racing the engine for about an hour trying to solve the downshift problem.

Glad to see you here Pete! I still can't believe your results! How far away are you from lancaster PA? There is a dyno jet AWD dyno there, we did a dyno day there in the winter and will likely do one again soon. I pulled 202awhp stock. :o:lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you took it to AWE right? I didn't have mine locked in W, cause im dumb and forgot about it. I had a hell of a time getting a solid pull, really never did. With the chip you should be making more power than I. The 16T isn't much smaller than the 18T, I do have larger injectors though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today, this afternoon ........ I'm pulling in the drivway...

...there's a huge box leaning against the garage door with

EUROSPORT TUNING 

written all over it.......

...yep, it's the new downpipe...

life is good

SWEET Pete! You're dream came ture! They can make a DP for a '98 straight flange 16T! B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I got the EST downpipe/cat installed today.  Took about 4 hours.  It was very scary.

Yes, it fits perfectly......except for the bung for the EGR pipe...

Big issues are: 

>>>getting the O2 sensor wires disconnected is a major headache--that alone takes about an hour.

>>>you can't remove the stock headpipe and cat without cutting it.

That almost stopped me cold...we played around with the pipe for about an hour, trying to find a way to save it just in case the new downpipe didn't fit or some other problem arose...then finally I bit down hard and said:  cut me !  I gotta get back in the fight!  go ahead, cut me, Paulie!    Adrianne!

If you know what you are doing, have a lift, air tools, and a torch, and someone to help, it can probably be done in 2 hours...maybe less.  We wasted an awful lot of time trying to get the stock system out without destroying it.  Can't be done.

Now, about the EGR pipe....it's not just that the bung is in the wrong place, but you need a nipple to attach the EGR pipe to the turbo exhaust pipe...the one on the stock pipe won't do, and Frank didn't send one with the kit. 

So for now I just left the EGR pipe to suck air.  I'll work on finding a nipple later.  Did not get any check engine lights yet.

The car does not seem to be any louder than before...perhaps very very slightly--but it's hard to be sure.    Haven't noticed any performance differences yet...

The new system looks very nice--that's the main thing.

I wonder why Volvo designed such a convoluted exhaust system?

EGR? what the? You should have 2 or 3 bungs on the DP. 2 for o2 sensors and 1 for a wideband/EDT pyrometer. You can go to any exhaust shop and buy bung plugs( :lol::lol: , you should already have plenty of them though Pete, oh...wait...wrong thing..).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pete, two things, can you take a pic of the Bung and the Egr pipe you speak of? Also, move the ohlins are far over to the strut towers as you can. You need to get them away from the turbo. I blew out an ohlin a few months ago and had to have it repaired. When the guy repaired it, I had him relocate the hose on the pass. side. DO NOT LOOSEN THE HOSES ON THE RESERVOIRS!!! :lol::lol:

DSCN1347.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...