EST Downpipe

[gdizzle]

Yea I can do that.  I don't have a digital camera so it will take a while before I can post the photos.

If you look at the photo on the EST site you can see the bung on the left pipe right near the turbo flange--that's where it's located on my pipe.  Here's what Frank says: 

>>"**Please note some 98 C70/S70/V70 Turbo models come with a check valve which have a metal pipe that runs into the factory down pipe to recycle exhaust gases back into the engine. Our EST down pipes do not have the connector for these check valve lines but you can let the pipe vent into the atmosphere."<<

There is no flex joint, but the fit is perfect, and even though one of the exhaust hangers is not used the system is very tight and rigid. 

Took the car out tonight to get a feel for the new exhaust.  I'm pretty sure there's something new there in the higher RPM range:  it's always hard to tell the difference between what you want to feel and what is real, but I'm thinkin':

"...this is fun..."

The faster you go the better it feels.  I got out onto an empty highway and ran her up to triple digits in no time at all:  god these cars are fast!  Then I found some twistie bits...with the Ohlins set on 8.    Hey Greg, what number are you using?

Anyway the exhaust was wrung out pretty good at a variety of speeds and twisties and bumps--and there are no leaks, bumps, rubs, or issues of any kind.  Still no check engine light either.

...got the endlinks replaced (one was pretty shot) and the car handles better than any car I've ever driven--just an amazing automobile.  I can't believe the speeds I'm entering turns at now--no worries...total confidence.

Swear to Betsy this is the best sports car I've ever had ...

I'm wondering if I will be able to turn the hoses at the point where they exit the top of the shock towers, like what is shown in your photo?  Will I be able to just twist that connection with my hand, or is it more involved than that?  Right now the dampers are positioned directly on top of the turbo, in the center of the bar.

Pete, you will need to have a ohlins repair shop move the hose for you. Also, I have my ohlins set on 3 right now, I was on vaction a few weeks ago, haven't driven the car since then.

[petew]

That's wierd...I find that setting 8 is the both the most comfortable and best-handling. Now I'm fooling around with tire pressures to take some of the bounce out of the springs.

I think TME went a bit too far on the spring rates...I'm going to try it with the Volvo springs: 9481769-9

[gdizzle]

I think you'll like the volvo springs. Should be a bid difference. TME springs are always on the stiff side.

[petew]

[Sharma1568908303]

If you do find those springs, please let us all know.

Thanks.

[petew]

[petew]

Frank says he shipped the EGR pipe adaptor..."its in the mail!"

UPATE: Got the adapter on Saturday. It's not exactly what I expected...I was hoping for a 3cm bit of steel pipe, threaded on the outside, so I could screw one end into the bung on the turbo exhaust elbow, and screw the compression fitting nut onto the other end.

But no, this is really an adapter: it changes the bung hole to a smaller hole, so you have to remove the adapter from the stock downpipe and screw it into the EST adapter, and then connect the compression fitting nut from the air pipe.

But first, you have to straighten out the bends on the air pipe, and put a 90-degree bend right at the end before the compression nut. So I got a torch and heated the pipe and gently bent it in a vice.

Everything went together fine. But now the heat shield won't go on, because the adapter puts the air pipe up too high---you can't get the turbo heat shield over it or under it.

This turbo heat shield is critical...I'm stuck.

[defgh1]

Everything went together fine.  But  now the heat shield won't go on, because the EST adapter puts the EGR pipe up too high---you can't get the turbo heat shield over it or under it. 

This turbo heat shield is critical...I'm stuck.

Pete,

Sounds like you are going to have to modify the heat shield by drilling a hole or cutting it to clear your modified EGR pipe.

Doug H

[petew]

Pete,

Sounds like you are going to have to modify the heat shield by drilling a hole or cutting it to clear your modified EGR pipe.

Doug H

Yes, but the heat shield over the turbo is the most important heat shield on the car. It is a complex bit of engineering, with multi-layers, and an air gap between: not the kind of thing you can just snip with a pair of tin snips. It also protects the turbo bearing oil line, which runs above the heat shield it to keep the oil from becoming super heated before it hits the turbo bearing.

Tonite I took the car out for a run (my goodness, this car is now both fast and quick!). When I got home in the dark garage, I lifted the hood to let the heat escape, since I no longer have the turbo heat shield over it.

The turbo was glowing a very bright orange--lighting up the entire back side of the engine compartment. I suppose most people have never seen this, since the heat shield covers the exhaust side of the turbo...but if they did, even once, they would most likely never again shut down the engine after a hard run under boost.

Let that sucker cool down a bit...or the oil will boil!

I ran into the house to find a camera, and snapped some photos of the cherry-red turbo. I'll post them if they turn out.

cheers,

petew

[defgh1]

Pete,

Believe or not you can modify the heat shield with pair of tin snips or by drilling a hole. Something has to be better than nothing. I had to modify both my front and rear multilayer heat shield on my twin turbo Stealth to add locations for the wideband O2 Sensors and Exhaust Temp Sensors. I minimized the cuts and even with these mods the heat shields still have retained more than 90% of their effectiveness.

Doug H

[petew]

Pete,

Believe or not you can modify the heat shield with pair of tin snips or by drilling  a hole.  Something has to be better than nothing.  I had to modify both my front and rear multilayer heat shield on my twin turbo Stealth to add locations for the wideband O2 Sensors and Exhaust Temp Sensors.  I minimized the cuts and even with these mods the heat shields still have retained more than 90% of their effectiveness.

Doug H

Well I spent yesterday morning with the heat shield, tin snips, hack saw, several pairs of vice-grips, and a real vice. It was ugly. This heat shield is a piece of work--it's in several layers--four or five, and has all kinds of compound bends and folds and things tacked on...

Once you begin to go at it with the tin snips it's destroied. First, all the pop-rivits that hold the secondary layer over the primary begin to fail. Before you've cut into it just a few cm the entire top section falls off. Now you are down to less than 50% protection, because there is a large air gap between these layers.

The primary shield looks like one thick layer of Al, but it's really two layers--that means your tin snips won't cut it unless it's flat and you cut straight. That's impossible. You'd better get a whole set of tin snips--with the left and right curves.

In the end, you will have cut away one of the fastener points, the entire top layer, and about 1/3 of the primary layer. What you have left is a very nasty, jagged bit of Al that barely covers the turbo oil feed line. The adapter that Frank sent me sticks up so high that you have to cut way into the heat shield to get it back on at all. I'll shoot some photos and post them later.

[mccammon]

the ipd exhaust is not the same as the 2000 ome.

check out this link, this hero pretty much uncovered it all...

http://forums.swedespeed,com/zerothread?id=6539

although i do have to disagree with him when it come to the noise factor---i like it, iam living well with it.    also you have to figure the ipd system is an improvment over the 2000 ome--- its 2.5 in. pipe, breathing easier ya, iam feeling it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

But what this thread doesn't discuss is the EST dual exhaust. What do people think about EST vs. 2000 Volvo stock?

[V70_R]

Well, after months of owning a downpipe which I thought could not be installed, I fianlly got it on. 6 hours of work later and the garage got it on, bending and welding the EGR and all. Unfortunately the heat shield could not be reinstalled, the guy said he'd have to hack it up so much that it would defeat the purpose, plus it would rattle around like crazy. So any ideas on how I could protect the oil line feeding the turbo?

The car sounds fairly loud now with the combo of the dual exhaust and dp. I am enjoying the rumble for now, but I fear it may get annoying in the future, especially the droning at highway speeds.

[flyfishing31568908306]

i'm not running any mods but i lined my trunk with a dense padding and that did a great job of knocking down the sound levels.

mike

[petew]

Well, after months of owning a downpipe which I thought could not be installed, I fianlly got it on. 6 hours of work later and the garage got it on, bending and welding the EGR and all. Unfortunately the heat shield could not be reinstalled, the guy said he'd have to hack it up so much that it would defeat the purpose, plus it would rattle around like crazy. So any ideas on how I could protect the oil line feeding the turbo?

The car sounds fairly loud now with the combo of the dual exhaust and dp. I am enjoying the rumble for now, but I fear it may get annoying in the future, especially the droning at highway speeds.

Steve,

Note that after ~1000 miles the EST downpie/cat it is somewhat louder than when first installed.

I advise you to make the attempt to modify the heat shield to at least get some protection for the turbo oil feed line. It's not that difficult. If you have taken the heat shield off before you know that there are only 4 bolts involved, and they are easy to reach with an ordinary ratchet (although an articulated joint makes this even easier).

I used a combination of tin snips, a hack saw, and brute force to cut the firewall -side edge off the heat shield, so the air pump feed tube sticks above it. If you have a Dremel tool that would be much easier and neater. When I was done there were two bolts left to hold it on to the engine--and enough shield to protect the turbo oil line. I've driven the car hard over rough roads and there is no rattle--everything is tight.

You want to leave as much of the sheild there as you can, so cut off a bit and check for fit, to see where you need to cut more. You will probably have to cut more that you think so you can lever the heat shield under the turbo oil feed line--

A little protection is better than none. Try it, you have nothing to lose at this point. I'll post photos of mine when I get the film developed.

Last week I made a run up and down the AC expressway from Camden to AC. Air temp. was in the mid 90's F. The kick you get when accelerating from 65 up is pretty darned awesome, and there seems to be lots of room left way up there (I did not go beyond 120, but the car was still pulling hard when I backed-off. Note that I have the IPd ECU mod and no electronic speed limiter). I believe the downpipe/cat is a noticable HP gain at higher speeds, and with the stock 2000 V70R cat-back the sound of the system is not in the least annoying...quite refined, as befits a European luxury sports car.

Final note: My indy mechanic reports that he has reset the "check engine" light that came on a few days after the downpipe was installed and before I was able to reconnect the air pipe. He said the code thrown was because of the disconnected air pipe, and now that it is reattached everything is fine.