tboyko Posted March 2, 2005 Report Share Posted March 2, 2005 Ok, I'm ready to buy new subs. I currently have a kenwood two channel amp that I plan to bridge (300W) to power either a single 10" or 12". I think I'll go with a JL audio 10w3v2 or 12w3v2 but am having a hard time deciding. Before I had two 12w0's and didn't like them. They didn't hit fast enough. Obviously I'm not looking to have KILLER bass in my car since I only want a single 10 or 12, but I want something that sounds good obviously and is more responsible than my 12w0's were. I currently have two crystal 615 kicks up front and thats it. SUGGESTIONS please. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jozone Posted March 2, 2005 Report Share Posted March 2, 2005 10w3v2 is a nice sub, and will be more responsive then your former 12w0's. What types of music do you typically listen to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850Tu2bo Posted March 2, 2005 Report Share Posted March 2, 2005 kevin got a jl for sale, its in the sales sectionclick here~!its a good buy, i woulda got it but i got a audiobahn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bogelo Posted March 2, 2005 Report Share Posted March 2, 2005 Ok, I'm ready to buy new subs. I currently have a kenwood two channel amp that I plan to bridge (300W) to power either a single 10" or 12". I think I'll go with a JL audio 10w3v2 or 12w3v2 but am having a hard time deciding. Before I had two 12w0's and didn't like them. They didn't hit fast enough. Obviously I'm not looking to have KILLER bass in my car since I only want a single 10 or 12, but I want something that sounds good obviously and is more responsible than my 12w0's were. I currently have two crystal 615 kicks up front and thats it. SUGGESTIONS please. Thanks!←Get a nakamichi (like mine) or a/d/s (RS 10 or RS12) for fast response sub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theunderlord Posted March 2, 2005 Report Share Posted March 2, 2005 Bigger is better! (someone told me that once) I'm a big big fan of my 12 W3D4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tboyko Posted March 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2005 well I just got rid of two 12w0's, so i dont want to go back down that route. the quality is good, but the output level and the responsiveness just sucks IMOkevin got a jl for sale, its in the sales sectionclick here~!its a good buy, i woulda got it but i got a audiobahn.← Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tboyko Posted March 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2005 unfortunately i'm pretty varied. as far as responsiveness needed...fast: the bled, moving units, hot hot heat, blodo brothers etc etc...medium: the notwist, pinback, etcslower: bright eyes, even some seal, ray charles, slower smooth almost r&b sometimes...so I'm pretty scattered. While I don't need crazy response or anything, I would like quite a bit more than the 12w0's gave. Will simply goin to the w3v2s do this for me or do I need to downsize to a 10? I really don't want the bass to sound hollow from using too small a sub.......10w3v2 is a nice sub, and will be more responsive then your former 12w0's. What types of music do you typically listen to?← Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veneficus Posted March 2, 2005 Report Share Posted March 2, 2005 IMO, 10" are better for rock and things that will be "hard hitting" where as 12" are more suited for all around music playing which is why I like to have a 12". 15" just for reference are just for the pound and hard more delayed hit. Basically 12" is the best all around sub and a 10" will be more suitable for rock. Go for the 10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theunderlord Posted March 2, 2005 Report Share Posted March 2, 2005 IMO, 10" are better for rock and things that will be "hard hitting" where as 12" are more suited for all around music playing which is why I like to have a 12". 15" just for reference are just for the pound and hard more delayed hit. Basically 12" is the best all around sub and a 10" will be more suitable for rock. Go for the 10.←yeah, but some rock really hits hard.. go play Alice in Chains - Rooster on a 12" .... sounds great.. "come to snuff the roooooster! awhh nooo! " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PyROZen Posted March 2, 2005 Report Share Posted March 2, 2005 has anyone ever paired two 10"s with one 12"? me and my friend have been talking about it and it seems like it would be a super-responsive setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veneficus Posted March 2, 2005 Report Share Posted March 2, 2005 yeah, but some rock really hits hard.. go play Alice in Chains - Rooster on a 12" .... sounds great.. "come to snuff the roooooster! awhh nooo! "←Yes, but then I've also heard some rock that sounds like poo on a 12". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh_S70GLT Posted March 3, 2005 Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 so if you load up a box with a 10, 12, and a 15 will you have reached bass nirvana? :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bing_0 Posted March 3, 2005 Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 guys, remember one thing, the sound quality of a sub in many cases, including transient response (how "fast" a sub is), is due to the installation and tuning...three things i have seen can make a sub see "slow"1. leaky enclosure2. massiver underpowering3. crossover set too high...(over 100hz)i would suggest that waht ever sub you get, you make sure to isntall it and tune it right...give the crsyatls 80hz and up, and the sub80hz and down...as far as good sound quality subs, JL makes good subs up and down there line, so i would say the transient response issue you experienced shouldnt be from the sub itself...but in general, a lower powered, light coned, loose suspension sub will appear to be "faster"some off the top of my head:1. Image Dynamics IDQ2. Aure Force (if you can find them any more)3. Old school nakamichi (no thte newer beefier ones)4. JL w3...there are tons of others, but something that is rated at 200-400 watts RMS, looks to not have a HUGE surround, and is relatively light, will usually be this kind of sub...b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tboyko Posted March 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 Ok, I think i got it narrowed down. It's going to either be a............:JL Audio 12w3v2 ORImage Dynamics IDQ 12 v.2 Any suggestions for me to lean one way or another? I have about 300W RMS to use, so I should be able to just about max out either?Question though. I have an old Kenwood KAC-829 that I aquired from a friend. I know that I can bridge it and get 300W RMS, but I don't know what impedance level this is at? Can anyone find anything out about this amplifier? I looked for a manual on kenwoodusa.com but they didn't have one??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest_The Reverend_* Posted March 3, 2005 Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 Ok, I think i got it narrowed down. It's going to either be a............:JL Audio 12w3v2 ORImage Dynamics IDQ 12 v.2 Any suggestions for me to lean one way or another? I have about 300W RMS to use, so I should be able to just about max out either?Question though. I have an old Kenwood KAC-829 that I aquired from a friend. I know that I can bridge it and get 300W RMS, but I don't know what impedance level this is at? Can anyone find anything out about this amplifier? I looked for a manual on kenwoodusa.com but they didn't have one???←I have heard (not experienced) that the IDQ subs are pretty low output Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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