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BEST Oil for V70R


68GT500KR

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Gents and Ladies,

I have to change the oil I use in my 2004 V70R because Kendall GT1 semi synthetic is not available over the counter in my market. I was wondering if anyone had any particular recommendation on what type of oil to use, wheather it be oil, synthetic oil, a certain type of oil (manufacturer) etc. I would like to hear any recommendations and opinions on the subject. Thanks for your help!

68GT500KR :lol:

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Gents and Ladies,

I have to change the oil I use in my 2004 V70R because Kendall GT1 semi synthetic is not available over the counter in my market. I was wondering if anyone had any particular recommendation on what type of oil to use, wheather it be oil, synthetic oil, a certain type of oil (manufacturer) etc. I would like to hear any recommendations and opinions on the subject. Thanks for your help!

68GT500KR :lol:

I'm partial to Mobil 1 0W40

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I'm partial to Mobil 1 0W40

Same..Mobil 1 0W40 for the gents

Do not use Oil of Olay for the ladies

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Same..Mobil 1 0W40 for the gents

Do not use Oil of Olay for the ladies

Thanks RonR and AlexD. Will Mobil 1 0W40 work for a car in Texas. I know it will work but was thinking I might need a heavier synthetic due to the high temperatures down here.

Thanks again for the tips, any other ideas are welcome as well.

:lol:

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Thanks RonR and AlexD. Will Mobil 1 0W40 work for a car in Texas. I know it will work but was thinking I might need a heavier synthetic due to the high temperatures down here.

Thanks again for the tips, any other ideas are welcome as well.

:lol:

0-40 will be fine in your weather. Oil weights indicate how thick the oil is. The higher the number, the thicker the oil. Multi-weight oils indicate the weight when cold (first number) and the weight when hot (last number) so a 0W40 will be thinner than a 10W30 when cold, and thicker (slightly) when hot. The 40 weight Mobil 1 has IMHO a better operating range for the R and higher temperature performance. A good number of auto makers are using 0W40 these days, if you can find it, I'd say you should use it.

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i meant to tell you. i saw an auction where your mustang went for a ton. it wasn't jackson either. can't remember where i read it now, but it was alot.

mike

I have seen a few go for large numbers...none are mine, mine is still at the "spa" getting worked on, I think it will be complete a little after new years. The cars go for stupid money honestly, but I suppose it is supply and demand.

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0-40 will be fine in your weather. Oil weights indicate how thick the oil is. The higher the number, the thicker the oil. Multi-weight oils indicate the weight when cold (first number) and the weight when hot (last number) so a 0W40 will be thinner than a 10W30 when cold, and thicker (slightly) when hot. The 40 weight Mobil 1 has IMHO a better operating range for the R and higher temperature performance. A good number of auto makers are using 0W40 these days, if you can find it, I'd say you should use it.

ended up going with Pennzoil synthetic, 5W-30...I am going to look into the Mobil 1 from now on...we will see.

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yuk anything but pennzoil....

put the yellow bottle down and back away...

I wouldn't use that crap to lube a barn door hinge...

I'm still using the Castrol R semi synthetic that is factory recommended, next service it will be full synthetic.

Or Mobil 1 fully synthetic.

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yuk anything but pennzoil....

put the yellow bottle down and back away...

I wouldn't use that crap to lube a barn door hinge...

I'm still using the Castrol R semi synthetic that is factory recommended, next service it will be full synthetic.

Or Mobil 1 fully synthetic.

WHOA!

Depending on the miles, don't just arbitrarily change to a synthetic or you may develop (RMS) leaks.

There is much discussion about this all over the place so I won't bore you with the details but if you have over 30K miles I would continue to run whatever you have been running.

I would continue with the Castrol

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Not sure I've ever met or talked to anyone that going from synthetic from conventional caused oil leak's. * Not saying it isn't possible, So don't freak out* . . . But, as I have posted before, Any & all our customer's run synthetic now, weather they want to or not. because the repair shop no longer even stock's conventional oil. This has been for about the last year or so. Or atleast I haven't heard of any substantial increase in oil leak fix's. But I will run it by the tech's to be sure. Again, this is primarily on Saab's. . . . which are prone to certain oil leak's, but usually more of a mileage thing than a particular oil.

I Would however agree with the Pennzoil statement. . . . . I'd run the generic gas station brand before Pennzoil. There filters have been the cause of numerous engine failure's. They were at one time leader's in the oil industry, Now, IMO . . . .they're just there to make a buck.

Stick with either Castrol or Mobil 1 . . . . Mobile as some refer to it. with or without the e it work's yust fine.

Sam's club & Costco out here (The NW) sell a case of 6 quarts for 29.90 so it's a pretty good deal. Compared to the auto store's. . . but this is just on Mobil 1. I've been running it, haven't noticed any oil lose like other's have mentioned. Engine seems quiet & smooth. will keep checking tho. . . . see if the oil level drop's as it gets closer to being changed.

Prior to the R. I was always a Valvoline guy. ran it in my street car's, Rally car's that spin 9500rpm all day long. & never had an issue. not oil related anyway.

Good luck, hope you find the info your looking for, ...........Dave

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Not sure I've ever met or talked to anyone that going from synthetic from conventional caused oil leak's. * Not saying it isn't possible, So don't freak out* . . . But, as I have posted before, Any & all our customer's run synthetic now, weather they want to or not. because the repair shop no longer even stock's conventional oil. This has been for about the last year or so. Or atleast I haven't heard of any substantial increase in oil leak fix's. But I will run it by the tech's to be sure. Again, this is primarily on Saab's. . . . which are prone to certain oil leak's, but usually more of a mileage thing than a particular oil.

I Would however agree with the Pennzoil statement. . . . . I'd run the generic gas station brand before Pennzoil. There filters have been the cause of numerous engine failure's. They were at one time leader's in the oil industry, Now, IMO . . . .they're just there to make a buck.

Stick with either Castrol or Mobil 1 . . . . Mobile as some refer to it. with or without the e it work's yust fine.

Sam's club & Costco out here (The NW) sell a case of 6 quarts for 29.90 so it's a pretty good deal. Compared to the auto store's. . . but this is just on Mobil 1. I've been running it, haven't noticed any oil lose like other's have mentioned. Engine seems quiet & smooth. will keep checking tho. . . . see if the oil level drop's as it gets closer to being changed.

Prior to the R. I was always a Valvoline guy. ran it in my street car's, Rally car's that spin 9500rpm all day long. & never had an issue. not oil related anyway.

Good luck, hope you find the info your looking for, ...........Dave

"Freak out" not at all.

However, if you do some searching this happens a LOT and not just with Volvos.

Synthetic is thinner so after time when dino oil has "set" in an engine, adding synthetic can find the oil trickling its way thru old or dry seals, etc.

This isn't me. Seriously do some searching on oil threads everywhere, this happens a lot

Heck, my street rod which has a (Chevy) crate motor started to leak after at 400 miles I changed to Syn. Switched back, no leaks

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JRL is correct, Synthetic oils do not "cause" leaks per se, they cam under the right conditions cause the removal of buildup from conventional oils that "hid" leaks. Depending on your point of view it is uncovering something that would eventually rear its head anyway. I would say switching to a synthetic from a conventional oil would be fine in a car with more than 30,000 miles depending on the age, and condition of the engine. Time and wear effect seals both, so a 10 year old car with 30,000 miles will have more deteriorated seals than a car with one year and 30,00 miles on the clock.

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JRL is correct, Synthetic oils do not "cause" leaks per se, they cam under the right conditions cause the removal of buildup from conventional oils that "hid" leaks. Depending on your point of view it is uncovering something that would eventually rear its head anyway. I would say switching to a synthetic from a conventional oil would be fine in a car with more than 30,000 miles depending on the age, and condition of the engine. Time and wear effect seals both, so a 10 year old car with 30,000 miles will have more deteriorated seals than a car with one year and 30,00 miles on the clock.

wasn't it Jim's post that said it could cause leak's ? ?

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