Factory vs. AfterMarket subwoofer & part numbers ?

[whoosh1568908312]

I was looking at the Infinty Basslink ll for a while.

It's a self-amped wedge that's meant for going

behind a pick-up seat, but it look like a nice fit for the R.

I think I wanna keep stealth though. But it's an option.

I had an original Basslink in my STi, and it was way too boomy. I don't know if they took care of that with the 2nd gen units or not, but I would definitely audition before buying, unless you're into BOOM BOOM hip-hop or something, and in that case it's way underpowered for what you need.

[mike_c70]

Humm, that's too much of a space sacrafice for me, and for $250+ I think I'd dpend the extra $50 and have the Volvo one from the factory, or the extra $200 and get the factory one aftermarket. The factory sub also includes software that alters the crossovers on the other speakers and is tone matched to the factory speakers as well so it provides a much better matched sound.

Care to share with me where you can get the Volvo OEM one for $300? Scania himself said his was $400+. The software you have to pay for extra. If you get it for free, you have a very friendly dealer.

How is the Kenwood too much of a space sacrifice? With the OEM one, you don't have a tray. The Kenwood fits in the tray nicely and you have room to spare for stuff.

You can use the software on the aftermarket sub such as the Kenwood as well based on the wiring. If you look at the wiring diagrams, the OEM subwoofer takes it power from the D pillar speakers, the same that you might do with an aftermarket one (such as the Kenwood).

[AlexD]

Care to share with me where you can get the Volvo OEM one for $300? Scania himself said his was $400+. The software you have to pay for extra. If you get it for free, you have a very friendly dealer.

How is the Kenwood too much of a space sacrifice? With the OEM one, you don't have a tray. The Kenwood fits in the tray nicely and you have room to spare for stuff.

You can use the software on the aftermarket sub such as the Kenwood as well based on the wiring. If you look at the wiring diagrams, the OEM subwoofer takes it power from the D pillar speakers, the same that you might do with an aftermarket one (such as the Kenwood).

You do loose the tray, but you don't loose much actual storage room since you can still put stuff under the hatch. Basically you loose the deeper section of the tray. I'd rather loose the tray than loose space inside the main cargo compartment.

The subwoofer is $300 if you buy it with the car, so as I said, an extra $50 to get it from the factory with it, an extra $200 over the Kenwood if you do as Dave did and buy it after the fact.

I'm more an audio purist (you could substitute snob here I suppose), and like Pete I prefer the subwoofer match the tonal qualities of the rest of the system, and indeed the Volvo subwoofer is a perfect fit. If you use the factory software on the aftermarket sub you have no gurantee that the crossover points are optimal for that sub and the factory speakers.

Also, the stock sub has a larger driver than the Kenwood unit. I think it's just a matter of personal preference and how much cash you are willing to lay down. If you get a really good deal on the Kenwood unit like you did, then it makes the factory sub that much more. My recommendation would be to new buyers that if you think you might want the sub: order it with the car in the first place.

Edit: The frequency response of the Kenwood is 50-150Hz with it's 6 1/2" driver, the Volvo unit is 20-100Hz with a 12" driver.

[mike_c70]

You do loose the tray, but you don't loose much actual storage room since you can still put stuff under the hatch. Basically you loose the deeper section of the tray. I'd rather loose the tray than loose space inside the main cargo compartment.

That's what I'm trying to say. With this Kenwood, you don't loose any space in the main cargo compartment. It fits IN the tray with room to spare. With the OEM sub, you have to take the tray out.

I'm more an audio purist (you could substitute snob here I suppose), and like Pete I prefer the subwoofer match the tonal qualities of the rest of the system, and indeed the Volvo subwoofer is a perfect fit. If you use the factory software on the aftermarket sub you have no gurantee that the crossover points are optimal for that sub and the factory speakers.

True. Since they are two completely different setups (one 12" vs 2 6.5"s), optimal results is questionble.

Also, the stock sub has a larger driver than the Kenwood unit. I think it's just a matter of personal preference and how much cash you are willing to lay down. If you get a really good deal on the Kenwood unit like you did, then it makes the factory sub that much more. My recommendation would be to new buyers that if you think you might want the sub: order it with the car in the first place.

Driver power is the same - 150W though the OEM sub has a lower frequency range (20Hz-100Hz) vs the Kenwood (35-150Hz) so OEM has lower oomph. For the cost I got the Kenwood sub for, I'm totally happy with the results. It's sound performance wise not optimal but it suits my needs quite well.

Definitely agree with you on ordering it from factory. It's totally worth the cost. Even if you don't like it, you can sell it for at least $350 to get even money.

BTW, is it possible to get the wiring of the subwoofer separate? I know the pn show as a kit but I'm only interested in the cables.

[AlexD]

That's what I'm trying to say. With this Kenwood, you don't loose any space in the main cargo compartment. It fits IN the tray with room to spare. With the OEM sub, you have to take the tray out.

True. Since they are two completely different setups (one 12" vs 2 6.5"s), optimal results is questionble.

Driver power is the same - 150W though the OEM sub has a lower frequency range (20Hz-100Hz) vs the Kenwood (35-150Hz) so OEM has lower oomph. For the cost I got the Kenwood sub for, I'm totally happy with the results. It's sound performance wise not optimal but it suits my needs quite well.

Definitely agree with you on ordering it from factory. It's totally worth the cost. Even if you don't like it, you can sell it for at least $350 to get even money.

BTW, is it possible to get the wiring of the subwoofer separate? I know the pn show as a kit but I'm only interested in the cables.

Yep, it sure is. I'll pop it up here in a second, my laptop with VADIS is having "surgery" at the moment.

[Scandia1568908312]

Mike, U do realize that one of those 61/2's a baffle rite ? not an actual speaker. So I highly doubt you'd get the same response.

The crossover point is usually set & not messed w/ again. 80hz & above is pretty much jazz & classical. None of mine are set above 60hz Optimum if you have all seperates is 35-40. . .then the 6" door speakers become mid bass driver's & take over from there. . . . . & so on & so forth. w/ your mid's & tweet's.

I wouldn't mind hearing one, but I doubt it would have much kick to it. I prefer to Feel the bass. but that's just me.

..............Dave

[AlexD]

BTW, is it possible to get the wiring of the subwoofer separate? I know the pn show as a kit but I'm only interested in the cables.

For 2004 models it is: 9499482, for 2005+ it is: 30730120

[mike_c70]

For 2004 models it is: 9499482, for 2005+ it is: 30730120

Sweet! Thanks!

Mike, U do realize that one of those 61/2's a baffle rite ? not an actual speaker. So I highly doubt you'd get the same response.

Yes I do. Hence, my comment about the software working "optimally" with aftermarket subs is a hit or miss. Theoretically, it should work since it's essentially using the same feeds (power and hookup wise), but the question is does it work well? most likely not since it's not optimized such as the OEM sub. But for my needs, it suits just fine.

[Scandia1568908312]

welp. . . . .thats ALL that matters. that it suit's your needs & your happy with it.

...........Dave

[EnterTheR]

Well here is my take on the subject. I have owned an 04 with aftermarket sub and an 06 with factory and 2 different aftermarket setups.

Factory sub performance: (9 out of 10) The phsycal design is awsome as it uses the minimal amount of space neccessary to accomplish its job. Very easy to install and remove if you need to get to the spare or just tired of having the sub in there. I give it a 9 only because fo the foam tool/jack holder. it can only take so much of a beating.

Factory sub sound performance: (6 out of 10) The sound from the sub sound decent when played at low to medium levels but cannot keep up with the rest of the system once you turn up the sound. the driver seems to bottom out before you hear distortion from the amp. I hooked up a seperate higher quality amp and the same effect occured. This is all rated with the sub volume knob in the default position. For a 12" driver it should play alot lower then it does. Volvo should have went with a 8" or 10" driver for the 10L enclosure that it uses.

Factory sub amp: (4 out of 10) Real poop! It is rated at 150W@10% distortion. That falls in line with the rest of volvo's audio products, but this is the worst sounding one I have heard yet.

So my overall impression of the factory sub is that is great if you want to keep your floor space and add a "little" low end to the music. But for a jam session I would hit the skip button.

Now on the the good stuff...

In the 04 I had 2 JL Audio 10WO's being pushed by 500 watts. Took up half the trunk area but I didn't care as I designed it to be removable in 5 minutes. It sounded good for what it was and cost me around $375 when it was all said and done. There was no hacking into the vehicle what so ever.

Used the same setup in the 06 until the drivers had seen enough abuse and decided to part ways with me. They were replaced with a single Alpine SWX-1242D 12" driver. Although it is only getting 500 watts, it sounds much better then the 2 10's.

Now I don't know if this "software" thing is some kind of volvo download scam but I did not have it on my 04(HU-803) and the output to the main speakers sounded good as well as there was a full range output on the sub cable. On the 06(HU-850) I just had to plug it up and press play. Everything was ready to work with very minor tweeks to compensate for the different stereos. There is also full range signal on the sub cable.

If you decide to go the aftermarket route, there are several things you are going to have to make a decision on.

1. Where am I going to get my signal from? Hu-xxx or PA-xxx

2. Do I need a convertor for the PA-xxx? Amp with speaker inputs or convertor

3. How do I control turn-on & turn-off? Toggle switch, relay, fuse panel

4. How much space am I willing to lose and where? Trunk, spare tire well, tray

These are just some of the things that are out there. The best thing to do is type "volvo subwoofer" in goggle and see what is out there. I got a lot of good ideals even if I did not like the entire setup.

Well hope you work things out, and I highly encourage you to listen to the sub before you buy it.

[Scandia1568908312]

Factory sub's in. . . .will post info & pic's either tomorrow or Monday. . . . . . 0 - 10 difficulty scale. 4 . . . hardest part is figuring the wiring. once you have that. . . your $.

Work's with out the download. . . Imagine I still need it (I'll get it when I have the SUM calibration done) . . but it is working & Only playing bass. . . .so ? ? ? rear's sound more like they're playing mid to highs. . . maybe like that before ? ?

Enter, I'm guessing your 10's where 8 ohm's ? 2 -4ohm 10's bridged Mono with that much power usually will out hit 1 12. . . specially if you have an amp stable down to 2 or even 1ohm. Not familiar w/ that alpine woof. . is it a dual voice coil ? . . if so, that bridged down to 1-2ohm's would have some pretty good kick to it. people that here my isoberic square 12 swear it's 2 round 12's. . . . . . .anyway, good info.

......................Dave

[AlexD]

[Factory sub sound performance: (6 out of 10) The sound from the sub sound decent when played at low to medium levels but cannot keep up with the rest of the system once you turn up the sound. the driver seems to bottom out before you hear distortion from the amp. I hooked up a seperate higher quality amp and the same effect occured. This is all rated with the sub volume knob in the default position. For a 12" driver it should play alot lower then it does. Volvo should have went with a 8" or 10" driver for the 10L enclosure that it uses.

Factory sub amp: (4 out of 10) Real poop! It is rated at 150W@10% distortion. That falls in line with the rest of volvo's audio products, but this is the worst sounding one I have heard yet.

So my overall impression of the factory sub is that is great if you want to keep your floor space and add a "little" low end to the music. But for a jam session I would hit the skip button.

Now on the the good stuff...

What type of music do you listen to? I went out and tried mine today and I can make all manner of things shake rattle and roll in the car. I listen to just about every type of music there is. I am wondering if perhaps there is something wrong with your sub? Software? Amp? Crossover?

[Pedestrian A]

My factory sub ratings.

If you want real bass, go aftermarket! The factory sub is 5/10 in my scale with no surprise. Just slightly more bass for the real passengers and not much of improvement for the front seats. My car was ordered with the sub by the dealer so I couldn't make my own choice. If I could, I wouldn't consider ordering it.

[Scandia1568908312]

[Factory sub sound performance: (6 out of 10) The sound from the sub sound decent when played at low to medium levels but cannot keep up with the rest of the system once you turn up the sound. the driver seems to bottom out before you hear distortion from the amp. I hooked up a seperate higher quality amp and the same effect occured. This is all rated with the sub volume knob in the default position. For a 12" driver it should play alot lower then it does. Volvo should have went with a 8" or 10" driver for the 10L enclosure that it uses.

Factory sub amp: (4 out of 10) Real poop! It is rated at 150W@10% distortion. That falls in line with the rest of volvo's audio, but this is the worst sounding one I have heard yet.

So my overall impression of the factory sub is that is great if you want to keep your floor space and add a "little" low end to the music. But for a jam session I would hit the skip button.

Now on the the good stuff...

What type of music do you listen to? I went out and tried mine today and I can make all manner of things shake rattle and roll in the car. I listen to just about every type of music there is. I am wondering if perhaps there is something wrong with your sub? Software? Amp? Crossover?

Alex, I listen to all type's of music. . . .depends on what I'm doing. I'll listen to Jazz or classical if I'm tuning a system. (yes, I worked at a car stereo shop) . .So going from a system like I have in my truck, 1600 + watt's all seperates, all crossed & tuned. while the Volvo system sound's Very good for a factory sytem. . . it still doesn't compare to a 10K + system. It hit's, rattles the rearview. but U can't feel it through your chest like U can my Truck or my Saab.

I'm beating that when you hook the sub up it takes it's signal from the rear speaks. . .once U do that, the sub changes the crossover point's for the rest of the system. & the reason I say that is. if U unhook the sub. . . .the front 6's that use to play pretty good bass, no longer do. they seem to have been change to a mid bass speaker. & the rear speak's def are only playing high end now.

I'll have the software updated while the car's there getting the SUM & other updates. see if it does infact change anything. IMO . .it was worth the coin to me. pic's are on the puter at the shop. I'll post um up tomorrow.

Have a good Sunday, it's beautiful here in Washington, Daughter's Bday party today ! Woo Hoo lol

..................Dave

[Scandia1568908312]

Some pic's. not great. but hopefully U can get the idea.

I found this to be helpful, as I miss placed my direction's. . http://forums.swedespeed,com/zerothread?id=15351

& this as well. . . http://vccs.volvocars.se/accessories/ii/de....asp?DocId=2537 Downloaded the instructions.

..................Dave