NChoy Posted March 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 I'm keeping a lookout for an M66AWD box here in the UK for mine. Question is, do I need anything other than the trans itself to swap from my M58AWD manual?You need to fab up a rear trans mount (the attachment points on the trans are different), and your shifter cables may not work with the M66. That's all I can think of right off the top of my head... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 I'm keeping a lookout for an M66AWD box here in the UK for mine. Question is, do I need anything other than the trans itself to swap from my M58AWD manual?as Nick said, you need a new bracket Shifter cables just need to be reversed.......and the M66 bracket modified Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Karloff Posted March 4, 2009 Report Share Posted March 4, 2009 Cheers dudes, useful to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momof94850-tx Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 For those doing a M66 swap on a 2000 PM me before you start. There are a few details you need to know that those with pre '00 cars did not have to deal with that we just found out about. I'm not ready to post a build thread yet so just shoot me a PM.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NChoy Posted March 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 Update for 3/14/09:- Finally pulled the motor. What a chore! I was originally going to pull it out the top, but had no way to pick it from the passenger side. Then I realized I wouldn't be able to get the hoist high enough to clear the radiator support. I ended up dropping it out the bottom onto a dolly I improvised with two appliance moving dollys connected together.Another view:After working on the car all day (my wife came outside to help me and take some pictures in the afternoon), I was getting pretty loopy...Applying PB Blaster to a pesky frozen bolt on the motor mount...Head is off. Shortly after we took this pic, I called it quits for the night. It was about 9 p.m. Tomorrow morning I separate the motor and trans, pull the pistons and crank, and cart it off to the machine shop.Oh yeah, here's some H-beam goodness: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Will Posted March 15, 2009 Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 Good stuff Nick! Keep us updated of the progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 15, 2009 Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 Nice!Keep the pics coming!Don't forget to reuse the large seat washer for the side mount... (sequence - mount stud/height adjuster nut/seat washer/bracket/washer/lock nut) I wire wheeled the mount stud & put plenty of nevr seize in the stud - you'll need to adjust the height once the engine/trans weight is sitting on the mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NChoy Posted March 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 Thanks for the tip Hussien. Yep, that stud is pretty well frozen. I pulled the whole thing off as one unit, and I'll take it down to the shop where they have larger, scarier tools and table vices...After poking about in all the parts and the subframe assembly off the car, I thought of a few questions I would pose to the forum:1. With 186k on the car, do you think it's a good idea to change the subframe rubber mounts? Expensive? Hard to swap?2. I heard there was a "connection" to getting relatively inexpensive replacement steering racks for this car... mine is the original. Do you think it's a good idea to swap it out now? (with my luck, this one will fail a month after I put it all back together).3. I'd like to change out that left side motor mount while I'm in here... any aftermarket/heavy duty versions for this one? I know QBM has the HD mount for the right side (but they are not responding to my e-mails!).4. Anyone have a manual they can loan me (rent to me)? Or is there one online I'm not aware of? Need all the torque sequences and specs for the reassembly.Thanks for the support along the way. This task is not easy for one man who works a day job M-F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Will Posted March 15, 2009 Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 We did my swap at 155K miles and did not replace the subframe bushings. I've heard from other Nick that Volvo has/had a subframe bushings kit that was meant for heavy duty use (maybe a different material?) but no doubt putting some fresh bushings in is never a bad thing but I think they have to be pressed out so it might be a pain.There is no reinforced rear engine mount (I think that's the left side one you are referring to) but the Genuine Volvo ones are only like $40 now which is terrific. I think I paid $90 for mine! My mount on that side was the original and had a nice crack in it at 155K so it was good it got replaced.VADIS has all the torque specs buried in it if you have that on DVD. If not, I or someone else can probably post up a list of torque specs from it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NChoy Posted March 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 Update for 3/21 & 3/22...Shifter assembly removed:This little bastard fought me for hours. You guys weren't kidding about how difficult the OEM shift knob was to remove! And to think all I needed was the boot and the top plastic thingy!Pedal assembly installed:New shifter assembly (with B&M short-shifter) assembled:With boot and... (drum roll please), Heico shift knob!Steering rack and engine subframe cleaned and reassembled:And then the unimaginable happened. While attaching the shifter cables to the shifter assembly, I broke this little plastic part:It cracked in half, and I tried to glue it back together, and it seems to have worked. But I'd hate for this thing to pop off while I'm between Portland and Seattle or something, so I have to replace it. Hussein knows about this, and couldn't find it in VADIS. I'm sort of screwed now. My only hope is to see if my machinist guy can make me another one out of delrin or brass. Maybe I should offer them up for sale as a replacement?Anyway, that was it for me. Frustrated, dirty, and hungry, I found my wife pressure washing the back patio, so I offered to help her. Two hours later I was frustrated, dirty, hungry, AND wet (sorry no pictures). All in all, a great weekend. Next update one week from now... stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVL WAGN Posted March 23, 2009 Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 Dude....your the man bro!!! Awesome stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Will Posted March 23, 2009 Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 Great stuff Nick! I love the Heico shift knob. That's a nice touch. And holy stuff did you hack up that original shift knob which was in perfect shape if I may say so...ahem, cough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momof94850-tx Posted March 23, 2009 Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 Looks awesome; nice work.There is an upgraded subframe bushing kit- comes with everything you need. Getting the old bushings out is easy- a hammer knocks them right out. They have to be pressed back in. I used the Volvo press tool when I worked at the dealer. I'm sure you can figure something out at home too. Def. tightens the car up...my '94 850T drivers tighter than most '00 X70s with much lower miles.If your rack is not leaking I'd be half tempted to do inner/outter tie rod ends and leave it...seems the rebuilt racks like to leak.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NChoy Posted March 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 Looks awesome; nice work.There is an upgraded subframe bushing kit- comes with everything you need. Getting the old bushings out is easy- a hammer knocks them right out. They have to be pressed back in. I used the Volvo press tool when I worked at the dealer. I'm sure you can figure something out at home too. Def. tightens the car up...my '94 850T drivers tighter than most '00 X70s with much lower miles.If your rack is not leaking I'd be half tempted to do inner/outter tie rod ends and leave it...seems the rebuilt racks like to leak.NickDo you have part numbers on the upgraded subframe bushing kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momof94850-tx Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 Do you have part numbers on the upgraded subframe bushing kit?I do but not here in Shreveport, all of my files on my car are in Fort Worth. I can look this weekend. If you do a search on VS you can find it, maybe on here as well.Good luck, shoot me a PM if you can't find it via search.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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