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Let the games begin...


NChoy

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Lookie what I picked up today...

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Lovely...

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Will drop them off at the machine shop Saturday. After they've been pre-fit, I'll take them, the H-Beam rods, polished crank and oil pan to Finish Line Coating to have a ceramic coating applied to the piston crowns, and oil shedding coating for the piston bases, rods, crank counter weights, and oil pan. Then back to the machine shop for blueprinting, balancing, and reassembly.

This weekend I start on cleaning up the head (light polish to intake/exhaust ports and combustion chambers. If I have time, I'll finish installing the shifter assembly, and rear suspension's new springs.

Updates to come Sunday night!

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Lookie what I picked up today...

Will drop them off at the machine shop Saturday. After they've been pre-fit, I'll take them, the H-Beam rods, polished crank and oil pan to Finish Line Coating to have a ceramic coating applied to the piston crowns, and oil shedding coating for the piston bases, rods, crank counter weights, and oil pan. Then back to the machine shop for blueprinting, balancing, and reassembly.

This weekend I start on cleaning up the head (light polish to intake/exhaust ports and combustion chambers. If I have time, I'll finish installing the shifter assembly, and rear suspension's new springs.

Updates to come Sunday night!

Very nice!

Since you have the manifolds off, it's not hard to port the intake - you can use the new gasket to mark the outer dimensions, and then dremel/file away quite an amount of material. I didn't bother with the head, since those are always larger than the manifold, but you could enlarge them a little....

The exhaust is more difficult, and if you already have an R manifold, I don't see it being worth the effort.

XCV70TB9600008.jpg

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Very nice!

Since you have the manifolds off, it's not hard to port the intake - you can use the new gasket to mark the outer dimensions, and then dremel/file away quite an amount of material. I didn't bother with the head, since those are always larger than the manifold, but you could enlarge them a little....

The exhaust is more difficult, and if you already have an R manifold, I don't see it being worth the effort.

XCV70TB9600008.jpg

Ah yes... way ahead of you Hussein! When I had the head off about 3 years ago being rebuilt, I slightly ported and polished the intake, and when I swapped to the S60R exhaust manifold, I did a fair amount of cleaning it up (removed slag and did a "knife-edge" on the collector point just inside the turbo housing). Also polished all the exhaust inlets as far as my dremmel would reach.

Now I'd like to see about what I can do on the head, without incurring too much expense. I may just do a bit of cleanup and polishing and call it good.

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Update for March 29...

Uneventful weekend. Mostly cleaned dirty parts, and tidied up the garage.

Modified the shifter assembly base so the bottom will clear:

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Then spent a couple of hours modifying the trans for the custom mount Hussein made for me. Drill this hole out to 1/2":

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Oh yeah... I tapped that ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD!

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Insert the "quick thread" (this little thing blows away helicoil):

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Bracket installed!

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I then loaded up the head, oil pan and intake manifold into the 245 for the trip back to my house. I'll do some light polishing and cleaning of the intake/exhaust ports, then get the intake manifold and oil pan coated (thermal coating and oil shed coating, respectively), Friday at Finish Line Coatings in Milwaukie, Oregon, along with the pistons and rods after they've been machined, balanced and blueprinted. I'll be sure to snap some before and after pics for y'all. Next weekend is a big one: Shifter assembly and cable install (with delrin and brass bushings all over the place), and new rear springs go on.

Oh, on a totally unrelated side note, my wife just came back from a week in St. Louis for work. She took this really cool panoramic shot from the top of the St. Louis Arch:

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Lookin' good, Nick!

LMK when the disc arrives, BTW....

It got here today. Let me fire up the PC laptop and see what we can see...

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April 4:

Long day. And it was beautiful weather too... 70s and sunny all day! Tomorrow is supposed to be more of the same.

Yesterday, I spent the entire day running errands. Ran out to the machine shop building my motor and picked up the rods and pistons. Dropped them off (with the oil pan and intake manifold) at the coating shop. Piston crowns will get ceramic coating, skirts will get dry lube impregnation, and bottoms and rods will get oil shedding coating, as will the oil pan. Intake manifold will get a reflective/thermal coating to keep intake temps down. Should all be ready in about 10 days.

And now for the real fun:

My indie machinist Bob is a genius. Rather than try to recreate that plastic "thimble" I broke last week, he made this bushing out of brass:

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Here it is installed:

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He also made me these shifter assy bushings out of delrin (should really take the slop out of the linkage):

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Of course if you've done this swap on a P1, you know you have to adapt the '00 shifter linkage to the M66 trans shifter controls (Hussein knows what I'm talking about). I had Bob make me these brass trans bushings. I used this type of bolt and some washers, plus a nylon bushing trimmed to the right height. This entire thing will be lubed up with grease to allow unimpeeded pivot:

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This is what it'll look like on the trans/shifter cable:

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I was pretty stoked with all the cool machined parts. My cat wasn't so impressed:

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Oh, then I got distracted by this thing:

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It's a '69 1800ES rear axle (with disc brakes). I spent a few hours dismantling it, pulled the axle shafts, scraped off 40 years of gunk and undercoating. It is going to be rebuilt, locker installed, cleaned up/painted with all new seals and hardware and installed on our '67 122. Front hubs will be machined to match the 5x108 bolt pattern. Wheels will be 5.5 x 15 ES wheels (same as on the 123 GT). Should be fun. Okay, back to the program...

Shifter assembly installed:

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Swapped out the rear springs. Here they are next to each other (blue was cut to 8.5", red is cut to 9"):

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Interesting thing about these two springs: The blue one has 7 coils from end to end (cut), and is rated at 450# as a 10" spring. The red one has 8 coils from end to end (cut), and is rated at 600# as a 12" spring. So I curious to see how the car will handle with these new springs. I also cranked up the rear adjustable Koni shocks to the #2 setting.

Here it is installed:

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And here's the parting shot. Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulley next to the OEM model. Note: OEM damper weighs 5.0 lbs. UR pulley weighs .8 lbs! I'll drop it off at the machine shop next time I go there so they can "zero" it too (though I think it's already been balanced, I want to be 100% sure).

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Tomorrow, I spend the day installing all the stereo stuff (cables, amps, speakers, etc.) If I'm inspired, I'll take some pics of that too.

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And here's the parting shot. Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulley next to the OEM model. Note: OEM damper weighs 5.0 lbs. UR pulley weighs .8 lbs! I'll drop it off at the machine shop next time I go there so they can "zero" it too (though I think it's already been balanced, I want to be 100% sure).

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Just a word of Caution! You are replacing a Harmonic balancer with a solid underdrive pulley. Sure in the short run it will help the motor spin-up faster but IMO it is Not worth it in the long run for the possible reduced reliability of the engine's rotating assembly and bearings!

Doug H

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Just a word of Caution! You are replacing a Harmonic balancer with a solid underdrive pulley. Sure in the short run it will help the motor spin-up faster but IMO it is Not worth it in the long run for the possible reduced reliability of the engine's rotating assembly and bearings!

Doug H

what hes said is that its going to be ballanced in with the engien build so he should be fine ?

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what hes said is that its going to be ballanced in with the engien build so he should be fine ?

AFAIK, those who had problems didn't balance their motors (they just slapped on the solid underdrive pulley).

I consulted the machine shop and a few others and they said if everything is being balanced, there won't be any problems. Everything is being zeroed out from pulley to flywheel/pressure plate, so it should work swimmingly.

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AFAIK, those who had problems didn't balance their motors (they just slapped on the solid underdrive pulley).

I consulted the machine shop and a few others and they said if everything is being balanced, there won't be any problems. Everything is being zeroed out from pulley to flywheel/pressure plate, so it should work swimmingly.

Balanced or Not, what will absorb the naturally occurring harmonics that result with any rotating assembly? When I was racing my motor assembly was balanced to within a 1/4 gram and I still was never foolish enough to run without a Harmonic balancer, but that is just me.

Doug H

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Balanced or Not, what will absorb the naturally occurring harmonics that result with any rotating assembly? When I was racing my motor assembly was balanced to within a 1/4 gram and I still was never foolish enough to run without a Harmonic balancer, but that is just me.

Doug H

On my B230FT, I've been running a solid Unorthodox Racing pulley for a long time (50k on the motor before I pulled it), and there were no problems. I play to use Dale's solid aluminum underdrive pulley when I put that motor in the 142. The car that the motor came out of ('90 745ti) saw quite a bit of track time and freeway use, and the 142 will probably see even more track time. I don't expect any problems with the new configuration either.

Unless the 5-cylinder has a completely different sort of "harmony" to it's spin, I don't expect it'll be any different from the 4-banger as long as its all balanced.

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