Tzantushka1568908311 Posted February 13, 2011 Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 That would be FETAL100% correct! If you use US English...But over here, we use UK English... Becasue of colonial past Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAZ-13B Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Hey Trent,Crank at no2 journal and no 2 rod is stuffed.Could you confirm for me if the crank and con rods are the same for non turbo B5252FS ? I managed to have a look at car sales and I found vin numbers from non turbo V70'sthen using Vadis I cross referenced part numbers, looks to me to be the same numbers but I don't know what the numbers in brackets mean, are the numbers in brackets superseded numbers ?YV1LW5506V2353969 is a non turbo 2.4 2 valve engine, there is a similar car at the local wreckers that I can have the engine out of for a couple of hundred...eg.. >>9189284 1994-B5252FS (3517837) (3507382) My vin YV1LW5003W2429514 >>9189284 B5234FS,B5234T B5252S,B5244T2 B5254S. (3517837)assuming they are the same, is the displacement difference only in the piston and bore size ?Regards Daz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAZ-13B Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Also... can the crank be re ground , is there a case hardening applied ?My options are#1 Second hand B5234T3 $1600, just put my turbo and manifolds on it and Im away. Would need inlet and exhaust manifold and water pump gaskets.#2 Second hand B5252FS $200, mainly has some oil leaks I believe. Use crank and rods from this engine to repair my engine. would still need VRS kit $140 , new head bolts $80,rear main seal $50, big ends$80 and main bearings. $800- $1000Remember mine has just had the head reconditioned.#3 Crank regrind $?, new rods $ ? VRS kit, new head bolts,rear main seal, big ends and main bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzantushka1568908311 Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Could you confirm for me if the crank and con rods are the same for non turbo B5252FS ? Daz,At least you know what's stuffed... BTW I am out for the next few nights & will need to have a squiz at VIDA from home.Telepathic message to Dave...Come in Dave...Dave, you need to PM Darren your deal on the R motor...Dave, help an R-brother out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing31568908306 Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 BTW I am out for the next few nights & will need to have a squiz at VIDA from home.new word to me.???????don't work to hard trent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 #2 Second hand B5252FS $200, mainly has some oil leaks I believe. Use crank and rods from this engine to repair my engine. would still need VRS kit $140 , new head bolts $80,rear main seal $50, big ends$80 and main bearings. $800- $1000Remember mine has just had the head reconditioned.For the price, I'd say go with the used motor for the crank & rods, throw new bearings at it & be done. Maybe there's a sneaky way of re-installing the piston up from under, then you wouldn't even have to pull the head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scandia1568908312 Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Daz,At least you know what's stuffed... BTW I am out for the next few nights & will need to have a squiz at VIDA from home.Telepathic message to Dave...Come in Dave...Dave, you need to PM Darren your deal on the R motor...Dave, help an R-brother out... Received. . . .will doPM sent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasw Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 new word to me.???????don't work to hard trent Along the same lines oftake a gandersneak peeklooky looand worse ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAZ-13B Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 *Update*BrokenSaff is getting picked up tomorrow from home and it will be heading off to my work, Managed to work up a great relationship with our new workshop controller over the past few months and he is keen to help me out Also have a few Mazda, V W, Mercedes master techs at my dealership that are keen to see me get her back on the road !So the big question is remove from the top like Mr Vadis tells me or drop the crossmember engine and box together ?Its not over yet...Received. . . .will doPM sent.Hey Dave thanks for the offer, I think I will be going with the 2.5 LPT block and using the internals from that, depends I guess when they get the head off and check it out for oil starvation too.I will keep everyone posted and take photos along the way...Daz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormtrooper1 Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Glad to see some progress and Glad you Didn't throw in the towel on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scandia1568908312 Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 Any time. . . . If I can help in any way just let me know !......Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAZ-13B Posted March 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 #Update#Broken Saff is now at my work, Ive decided to buy a long engine from a low mileage C70 to save some time, I did get a chance to remove the head fora bit of a look, here are some pics.Regards Daz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maniaczues Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Did I mention she's a manual..... Here are some pics as promissed and my wife really didn't mind me putting all of those parts in the cinema room for happy snaps...my garage is pretty full of Mazda RX-7 parts and the R.Yes I have some work to do...Head removed by previous owner...not sure why at this stage...Left hand side of engine bay...Right hand side of engine bay...Engine code on timing belt cover...A view from the rear...a little paint required...Look its right hand drive and the all important manual stick Funny place for a horn Top mounting looks good..just sitting there for the photo...Very bad water hose...may have contributed to the failure...We had a dust storm a few weeks back got into everything !Found this in the engine bay, not sure what its for or if its even off the car...Inlet with white injectors...Hows my head look ?Not sure why they took this apart, I cant see any damage, sorry about blurry pic..Cams...n stuffSomething to do with cams...I think I will take these along to the machine shop along with the cams,new cam seals,bolts,special sealant and lifters.Air box bits...Exhaust manifold and split turbo, I'm thinking they split it to get it out..dam it Oh well just send it off and get it rebuilt..18T in bits...With separate TPS this has to be a better throttle body than the 2000 my ?Intercooler pipe work...not sure if any of it is missing yet...Cams...Another view of the head...Valves...also can anybody see any problems here ?Lifters (HLA's) should I get new ones ?Hmmm I think im missing something, possible air flow meter ?Thanks for lookingIll start cleaning the years of dirt from the engine bay on the weekend, good new years day job Regards Dazyour missing the maf-mass air flow sensor normaly about £260 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAZ-13B Posted March 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 All good my friendI had it running since those old photo's, bought one for $160 AUD.Thanks for looking though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasw Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 So a bunch of us went on a run Friday night and all seemed good apart from the wildlife (owls, frogs, rabbits, cows and one human) all over the roads. The weather held until we started heading for home.On an uphill switchback section (under normal circumstances loads of fun with a capital R) I notice a drop in power like it isn't coming onto boost properly and then look at my dash.Temp is soaring towards top end and then the low coolant light comes on. Sphincter muscle puckers as I look for somewhere to pull over. There are guardrails and no room between the road and the mountain on this road so I make do with a few feet of gravel.Hindsight is always awesome in situations like this suggesting I should have been watching the guages but how many of us have time for this when when having R type fun on twisties?!After popping the bonnet I see the reservoir is empty and steam p1ssing from the cap. One of the others has a BMW e30 with an e36 328 engine in it (irrelevant apart from the awesomeness of that fact alone ) and luckily his windscreen washer bottle comes out easy so after letting things cool down I start the engine and we fill her up again. Temp seems to settle to where it normally sits and doesn't move.The moment I put any load on the engine the temp soars again. This is a problem being on the uphill of a mountain road and nothing-ness in terms of civilisation in the other direction so I nurse it to a rest area up the top of the hill.So long story short. You fill the reservoir and top up as air pockets purge and it "seems" ok but the moment you drive the car the temp rises and boils the reservoir dry within 5 km's.So I'm thinking thermostat after feeling hose temps and the like (fan is still coming on/off going higher speed etc). Why for the love of God Volvo chose torx as a system for fasteners is beyond apart from either forcing us to buy these or just give up and tale it to a dealer. So thermostat staid in and it was a very early morning before I got it home with constant stops for cool down periods, checks, top up, more checks, etc.Yes I should have just left it somewhere safe but at 3 in the morning my mind was stupidly telling me to just get it home At no stage was there water in the oil or vapour from the exhaust (we checked and checked and checked) so fingers crossed I haven't lunched the head or worse but she got hot. Very hot. I would be extremely lucky to not have done some damage of some kind here I think.I managed to source an aftermarket thermostat and after checking flow through the radiator and the engine/head with a garden hose I fitted it and filled her up again. I cranked it initially with the coil lead unplugged to check for leaks then fired it up. Once again all seemed good apart form a horrendous noise initially from he power steering pump which must have gotten water/coolant in it at some stage.Temp stable and no leaks I took it for a very sedate drive. Power seemed OK. Engine smooth and temp stayed where it is meant to be. As I pull into the driveway I smell coolant and hear a faint screeching sound.I immediately cut the engine and popped the bonnet to find coolant leaking from behind the timing belt cover. I popped it off and I could see it coming from behind the water pump rear of of the engine. Not from the weep hole though.So excess heat has either killed the water pump or something more sinister is wrong. Car is getting towed to dealer tomorrow and I'll wait for the dreaded phone call.Ah well. It is only money after all and if I didn't spend int on my R I would only use it on frivolous things like food and the children's education anyway Daz. I feel your pain oh so more painfully now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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