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Serp Belt Tensioner Removal


kenk

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Searched the archives, and looking through the haynes manual i dont see any directions or tips for replacing the serp belt tensioner/idler pulley. Haynes just covers installing a new belt and not a tensioner.

I know there are two bolts on the tensioner, do i just remove these and then the whole thing comes off?

Also what do i need to torque it back to when i put it on the car? Dont want that sucker coming loose on the road, but dont want to shear off anything either.

thanks

-ken

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You will need a 3/4" drive tool to release the tension on the belt. I saw a picture once of 3 or 4 quarters in a needle nose vice grip plyers doing the job.

FCP Groton has the tool for like $25 I think

Then, you just remove the bolts holding the bracket,,

With the bracket off you can remove the bolt holding the pulley.

Hope this helps...

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blah, so got the part off only to find fcp groton sent me the wrong part. Their webpage is actually wrong fyi, "Tensioner Roller all 1993-1997 w/ MT and the following 1993 A/T models up to the following engine number 122376 w/ EGR and 121674 w/o EGR"

well i have a manual tranny, and mines a 96, so that according to them is the part, but of course thats not it. Partly its my fault for not checking.

So uh yea, now im stuck nobody has the right part in my area. Blah.

I can hear a bearing rattle in the roller when i spin it, how bad would it be to put back on the car, is it likely to fail soon? I need to go up to MN for a flight on monday. I suppose i could drive my crappy honda, but thats got 260k on it. Blah.

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In my experience, you can put the old tensioner back on. They make alot of noise when they're loose, but they dont fail suddenly. Since you're about to order another part, do yourself a favor and order the other pulley as well (idler one). Change them both.

Ned

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i ended up driving to kansas city to get the part, ended up getting the whole tensioner assembly, gonna put it on tomorrow.

Im not sure what your referring to Ned though, is there another pulley im missing? Im looking at the tensioner and i only see one pulley though.

-ken

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The other pulley's in addition to the one on the tensioner. It's an idler pulley to the right of the tensioner as you're looking down from the top of the engine. If you didnt buy this one, it's no biggie, but it may go out later. Actually, this one was the defective bearing on my 850...I ended up buying the tensioner as well just to end the issue once/for all.

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Guest Guest_Mike_*

You will need a 3/4" drive tool to release the tension on the belt.  I saw a picture once of 3 or 4 quarters in a needle nose vice grip plyers doing the job.

FCP Groton has the tool for like $25 I think

Then, you just remove the bolts holding the bracket,,

With the bracket off you can remove the bolt holding the pulley.

Hope this helps...

My old one was scripted so the socket drive would slip causing problems for me. I resorted to using a strong allen key into the pinhold slot of the tensioner and using a large screwdriver for leverage on that allen key. Now i use this method when changing the belt since it takes only a minute even with the replaced tensioner.

But as always keep your fingers clear using either method in case of slippage.

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