Considering a V70R, but this site is scaring me...

[raeste]

Just a quick note about driving and confidence in the V70R.

Driving conditions yesterday AM were: consistent -10C, ice fog and freezing rain. The road surface, frost-heaves and all, was kind of like a malformed skating rink just after the Zamboni has gone by, with freezing rain constantly accumulating on the windshield. So, you can understand that the commute in was terrible. Shortly after I went through a rural stretch of about 10KM or so as I headed into the city, behind me there was a huge pile-up of about 20 cars with lots of rear-ending and people driving into the ditch. This apparently involved an out of control cement truck (don't know, never saw that) and I don't yet know if anyone was seriously injured. My wife and one of her work colleagues in our 2003 4Runner were about 10 minutes ahead of me and made it to work all right. My drive in is a lot further than hers, and getting into the city was miserable. Most vehicles had very little traction, a great feature of the commute when things are jam-packed and it's rush hour! I eventually made it in without incident but had to really hang back from anyone in front to allow sufficient room, and time, for driving safely. I shook my fist at a few folks riding my bumper as they slipped and slid sideways and even bounced off curbs.

Our 2004 V70R with the studded Hakkapeliittas didn't flinch through all of this, though. I could feel that the road conditions were much more slick than normal -- I noted a very subtle increase in lateral movement from time to time -- but as I've said before, the combination of the drive train with those excellent tires is perfect. Other vehicles were sliding through intersections, spinning, hitting curbs, sitting in ditches -- obviously being driven so that such things were taking place. But the DTSC in the 'R' works perfectly -- no notable loss of traction whatsoever, even in the worst of very slick conditions conditions. And I don't think yesterday could have been much worse.

Today we have extremely thick ice fog out there, and it's -11C. But I don't think we have freezing rain today -- yet.

Anyway, I am very happy that my 'dd' is the pure silver 'R' with the Hakkapeliittas. Can't say enough good about it.

Cheers / Blueleezard

[raeste]

More to the story --

So, on the way to work in heavy rain this AM the CEL comes on. Some hesitation, stumbling. Experienced this before in a minor way, but now it's happening at least once a week. We've had a lot of rain lately -- very wet. The CEL has always gone out after a bit and the behaviour disappears. But it seems to happen in rain more often than in the dry. Given this strong correlation, sounds like an electrical problem to me.

Ran into this in the Winter when running through some deep meltwater. Always cured itself followed by long intervening periods of no CEL, no symptoms. Wrote about it in other discussions on this forum.

So -- pulled into my fave indie shop on the way into the city. They were really, really packed -- no parking anywhere and a huge lineup at the front desk. Bad weather does that to people! But the 1/2-owner called me over and told me right away to drive the 'R' into "Bay Two". Amazing! I didn't think they'd have room until next week -- but, into the shop I went. The mechanic pulled out the code reader. One minute later, there it was: P0193, "Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor A Circuit High Input" (see close-up photo).

There was no other stored code. So the fuel rail pressure sensor was all there was.

My understanding is this is a warranty recall item for the 2004 V70R -- but our VIN is not in the approved range for warranty recall work!!

So, I called Volvo in Toronto and explained what is going on. They looked up the car on their computer. I also told them about the bad treatment I received at the local dealership, and that I am very unhappy with that -- don't want to go back.

Anyway the fellow I talked with in Toronto -- his name is "Omar" -- was extremely helpful. Very respectful, professional and thorough. I appreciated that a lot.

He carefully explained how Volvo might be able to help. The first part doesn't sound like help. Volvo Canada will not accept the word of an independent, no matter how good they are. This is the "short and curly" routine. I would have to bring it in to the dealer for diagnostics. I said "no" because of the treatment I received. I could therefore bring it to the only other dealer in this Province -- but that's a 600+KM (400 mile) return trip. Don't feel like driving that far, thanks, and I don't have the luxury of time for that either.

I explained I would be happy to be a customer of local Volvo service for things like this fuel rail if I was treated properly. And, of course I would like Volvo's help in having this particular problem approved for warranty work. If the local dealer sees the same problem with the same code (which they obviously would because that's all there is, unless there's something else hiding a bit further down in the woodpile, which if there was, I am assuming would show up through VADIS), then in theory they could support the customer's argument that it should be covered, because this problem is common -- even if our 'R' is out the currently-approved VIN range (this would boil down to Volvo expanding that range to include at least our VIN).

So, Omar promised to call the local dealer and try to open a better, more friendly, more receptive door there. If he is successful, they will call me. And we can go from there. They have to take the first step, not me.

When I got home this evening, I did a bit of sleuthing. Found this, so far: < http://forums.swedespeed,com/showthread.php?121174-P0193-Fuel-Rail-Pressure-Sensor-Circuit-High-Input >.

Fascinating. Sounds like a more common problem than I had previously thought. More digging to come. Maybe it will be possible to make the case that this problem should be covered not just for me, but for everyone.

If nothing happens with the dealer, no skin off my nose. I'll just have the fuel rail stuff replaced when the 168K check comes up, regardless. But I'll give this a shot if the door happens to open up.

With my hands firmly placed over my wallet.

Cheers to all / Blueleezard

[Kevin K.]

You filled it with mid grade?????

The cars are PREMIUM FUEL ONLY and the highest octane you can find

I use whatever I have cash for that will fill the tank and that's any grade at the pump. The only time one really needs to worry is if you are in a situation where loads on the engine will produce clear detonation that the ECU can't handle or advance the timing quickly enough to compensate the timing vs. octane rating.

Here in Southern California where I generally don't tromp on the pedal that much in my 3-mile commute, there's no worry about pinging or any other octane-related problems and I'm saving a ton of money in the long run by buying lower grade gas.

And, before anyone has a fit, my 120k Toyota HiLux, 120k 200SX, 70k Mustang GT, 100k Camaro and my wife's 150k + Aerostar never had an engine related problem with indiscriminately purchasing whatever grade of fuel we found.

Octane ratings are merely a guide to help you prevent detonation if you drive in a situation that will present it but, if you listen to your engine and drive "sanely", you can easily avoid it and pay less in the long run.

There's probably more damage to be seen by using unleaded gas in an engine that truly requires leaded fuel than using a lower than recommended octane.

That's my opinion and am backing it up with 5 vehicles worth of experience.

Kevin

[Scandia1568908312]

agree 100% Kevin. . . .There was alot of people that claimed anything less than 93 Octane & their car wouldn't run right & rattle & ping. So to test this theory I've ran everything around. On All my vehicle's. The 06 sit's alot, & when I do drive it I get on it abit. So for that reason I run 89 or usually 93 just for S&G's. But other than that like you said. If your driving the car sanely you really shouldn't have any issue's.

......Dave

[raeste]

Since acquiring our 2004 V70R MT last Fall I've had occasion to put in lower-octane fuel when there was nothing else available. I guess this caused a freak-out reaction after I confessed to putting in 1/2 a tank of mid-grade on top of premium! OMG! (As background, I generally run premium, but not always). And as mentioned previously I usually "top up" with octane boost maybe every second or third tank nowadays, usually on the wknd when I have a moment to do that in the garage, and also a "glop" of fuel injector cleaner for what it's worth. Hasn't caused any problems so far from what I can see. The P0193 code, "Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor A Circuit High Input", has finally been revealed thanks to my indie shop, and seeing as it seems to have been a repeat performer in all conditions and with all grades of fuel, my bet is that what has been observed isn't related to what grade fuel I happen to find myself using.

I had thought (and previously have offered the opinion) that the occasional hesitation observed with our 'R' might have been caused by low-grade fuel being used consistently by the previous owner, perhaps causing a hypothetical accumulation of some weird hydrocarbon gunk in the fuel filters, or something like that -- of course that was pure speculation, but could have been marginally plausible given what was known at the time. Not being an automotive fuel specialist, gasoline chemist or additive aficionado, I happily admit to total ignorance in this realm.

Anyway, I am now thinking that whatever fuel the previous owner used was probably not relevant to the observed hesitation -- I suspect it's on account of whatever is affecting the fuel rail pressure sensor A, per evidence pulled up by the code reader. Is this purely a mechanical / physical phenomenon, as in: a microscopic gap in a connector plug somewhere that admits a few molecules of H20 in heavy rain conditions (when clearly it should not), causing a different and misleading electrical signal to the fuel management computer resulting in the hesitation / stumbling? Or, is it a fault in the sensor itself (e.g., a defect in the chip perhaps on account of lower quality of manufacture) that is not in any way connected to the apparent correlation with (suspected) "water in the hole" as it were?

So, I'll keep using premium most of the time with our 2004 V70R, and add boost and cleaner stuff on a regular basis. Since 1974 awhen I bought my first Volvo, and through all the intervening decades, I've been using such additive things without ill effect, ever -- also with all our Toyotas. Allow me to quote Jim Carey: "Is everybody happy?" We certainly have been and still are. And, as Arnold said in one of his famous screen personas, "No problemo" (too bad for him that real life hasn't turned out that way, but that's another story ... ... ).

And one way or the other I'll get the fuel rail sensor "A" problem fixed. Am looking fwd to that. The timing could work out really well as it will almost certainly line up perfectly with the 168K major maintenance. Hopefully my fave indie shop will find an inexpensive source for the fuel rail pressure sensor part that is probably required (could it be sourced from the MB realm? Sounds as though that would be a lot cheaper for the identical part!), and the hesitation etc. will hopefully be a thing of the past.

I'll continue to use octane boost and cleaner. Maybe it's just a psychological thing based on the principle of snake oil. The owner thinks he or she is doing something special, has higher expectations as a result, and maybe is less inclined to see problems if they occur. It's all about marketing ...

... but, regardless, as I said, I'll have the fuel rail sensor problem fixed following what has been identified (and what might be identified in the intervening period). And we'll go from there.

Cheers to all / blueleezard

[raeste]

Found it ... you can, too, by searching "NHTSA Campaign ID number 07V226000".

You will get --> < http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallresults.cfm?start=1&SearchType=QuickSearch&rcl_ID=07V226000&summary=true&prod_id=203026&PrintVersion=YES >

So, guess what -- a connection has been made with the local dealer -- I expect the fuel rail pressure sensor "A" will be successfully replaced under this recall.

Note that (at least from what I can see) Volvo has not yet put this recall out "on the wire" to owners, although it was initiated in 2007.

Hopefully things will improve with our vehicle after 16 June 2011 when the work is to be done.

I'll report in as things go forward.

Cheers to all / Blueleezard

[raeste]

Update -- ran into a brick wall with Volvo Canada. "Oh, you have a 2004 V70R ... you have found the recall notice on NHTSA ... oh my, look at the documentation, you certainly have done your homework ... yes, there is a recall, but sadly, it doesn't apply to you ... your VIN is out of the approved range for that recall." My question: OK, prove to me that my vehicle is not in your "approved range". Answer: "No." My question: "Why not?" Answer" "Because." Implied: "Too bad for you. Go away."

So, having thrown my hands up in despair, today I began the 168K maintenance sequence in earnest. This is being taken care of by the local Toyota dealer. Great mechanics (all with decades of international vehicle experience including Volvo). Great personal treatment.

Had the required tranny, diff and angle gear fluids brought in (all Volvo spec!) and changed this morning. Also had the fuel rail pressure sensor replaced in about 20 minutes (see attached images -- old, new in hand, new installed -- I hope the sequence appears obvious in the images). 5W30 Mobil 1 and Mahle filter were changed out last weekend.

Today, when all was said and done -- off I went on a test drive of about 40KM (30 miles). Driving conditions: very heavy rain, many inches of water everywhere, temp steady at about 8C (about 47F). First clue that things had changed: the idle before getting underway is now very even and smooth, much less "lumpy" than previously (that I had thought was "normal"). Then, out to the highway, speed up to 140KPH (85 MPH) and everything in between, stops, starts, upshifts, downshifts, intentional lugging, the whole nine yards. Lots and lots and lots of water everywhere. If you needed a day when there was good potential for road spray being inhaled by the air filter, today was the day. Not a dry eye in the house, as they say.

Conclusion: our silver V70R was really good previously, but now it seems like a new car. It is so smooth and responsive and wonderful that I wondered if I'd landed on a different planet.

So, the fuel rail pressure sensor (code P0193) seems to have been the culprit.

I'll go after Volvo Canada for a refund on the part and the labour. Who knows? Maybe it will work out. If not -- I'll leave it all behind; I don't really have time for this -- and the car is great. The service that Toyota has provided on the 'R' has been very good -- excellent, in fact. As has been other service with the independent I usually go to. Each knows of the other and everything is cool. The Volvo dealer and Volvo Canada are rapidly receding in my rear view mirror.

Of course in the same breath I can't say enough good things about the unique example of our pure silver 2004 V70R 6-speed. This is an amazingly wonderful machine, a great car -- so, I have no question that the product itself, as a whole, is top-notch. I've said before it's the best vehicle I've ever owned, based on more than four decades of extensive vehicle ownership experience (including other Volvos). This is a wonderful, economical, sensible, safe, and totally enjoyable sport wagon -- a rocket sleeper with every bell and whistle I could wish for that is a joy to have as a daily driver. As that famous review noted <http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2007/04/volvo-v70r-awd/>, it's like a porno star wearing a condom. Hmm ...

So, as of today, a good portion of the 168K maintenance has been done, and all seems good. Remaining steps: timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt, any required filters, new plugs -- and, having poked around while the car has been on the lift, it looks as though the rear sway bar links will need replacement. As will the cable for the block heater -- worn through because of an amateurish installation many years ago with the previous owner, or so it appears. Small potatoes, and no problemo, as Arnold said. I'll talk to IPD about those links ... and at the same time, I'll get those wheel spacers, probably 10mm on the front, 15mm on the rear. All the extra horns are now in, so at some point this Summer, the rest will be done and installed as required -- just in time for Winter when it will be time to go back to the studded Hakkapeliittas! Yikes!

Costs of all this so far? Not much at all. Just for the 168K maintenance when all is said and done, I figure the final bill will total about $850 Canadian, parts and labour, maybe just a bit more. Depends if I get that kevlar timing belt or not.

Summary: so far, so good. If you can't do the work yourself either because of skills, expertise or tools (and I don't pretend to have any of what is necessary), I think the lessons here are twofold: first, keep reading the commentaries on this forum -- the information is invaluable; second, find and secure trustworthy expert mechanics at reliable indie shops wherever you can find them to do what needs to be done. Also, you need to suss out dependable sources for parts etc., and steer away from local Volvo service when you are past your warranty. I am sure there are countless expert Volvo mechanics out there in Volvo shops worldwide who are good guys and are the best anyone could get -- but corporate-wise at Volvo, "customer service" seems like an oxymoron. Sort of along the lines of what George Carlin used to mean when he talked about "airline food" or "military intelligence" in his routines. Except it's not funny in this case.

Onwards ...

Cheers / Blueleezard

[Tzantushka1568908311]

That's great, glad it (kinda) worked out for you...

BTW, from those pictures, are you missing a bolt on your Over The Engine (OTE) pipe?

Where the OTE bracket fits onto the inlet manifold...

Trent

[raeste]

Hey Trent -- just like you say: yeah, sort of. Costs $ no matter what, I guess. The PITA I found is trying to get Volvo-spec fluids (locally here, that is) without going through Volvo. Can't be done from what I can see. So I had to get the tranny, diff and angle gear lubricants from the local stealer, trucked over to the Toyota dealer.

I suppose if I had done more homework I could have found comparable fluids elsewhere (e.g., military or police / emergency service) but one of the infopieces I encountered had to do with the alloy mix in the various Volvo gear trains of interest here -- I seem to remember reading that they are higher in copper than other manufacturers' cogs and wheels -- and this require the additives (apparently in the Volvo fluids) to avoid premature deterioration.

This may have to do with the admonition in owners' manuals to not fool with oil additives, ever. Dunno. Would love to hear from a chemist / mechanic who knows.

So, I don't know if Volvo's claim about "no additives" and "Volvo fluids only" is true or not. I suppose I could have saved myself a few $ by having generic fluids put in, if the claim isn't true that Volvo-only fluids are required. I just didn't have time to go any further on my search for accurate info.

About what the pics show: nope, no bolts missing. The pics are from the time when the OTE pipe had been backed off slightly to permit access to the fuel rail underneath. It's all back together 100% from what I can see. I've gone in and re-checked everything at home and it's as tight as a drum -- no wobbles, nothing loose, and therefore (I hope) no worries.

But thanks for noting what looks to be unusual / problematic.

Now I feel a bit more confident about what goes on when mucking about under the hood. The fuel rail sensor replacement was really simple -- like I say, about 20 minutes from backing off the first bolts to wiping everything off properly when it was all over. I had read elsewhere that the sensor itself was a "plug and play," and it most certainly is that.

So, I'll monitor closely as things go forward, and report in with anything unusual.

Cheers / Blueleezard

[raeste]

Dear all:

Yet another update -- last Friday 14 Oct 2011, I finally drove up to Volvo of Edmonton to have the last of the 168K KM maintenance done (at 172K KM). I have written elsewhere (in the "chassis settings require service" thread) that I was concerned about the yaw sensor on the rear axle perhaps needing replacement or something else going South, causing the observed message in the window and a reversion to the "default" single chassis setting, 1/2 way between sport and advanced.

Long story short -- (1) timing and serpentine belts were replaced; (2) water pump was examined but advice was, no need for replacement; (3) right rear strut / shock needs replacement (all others OK) -- this is the cause of the chassis setting message -- I chose to leave it as is for now (see my request below); (4) new plugs were installed (old ones were non-Volvo unbeknownst to me and were gapped in an inconsistent way according to the mechanic -- they also looked like hell when we inspected them -- the stock plugs are un-gappable and have three electrodes, not one); (5) fuel filter was replaced; (6) air and cabin filters were replaced (the old air filter was plugged 75% solid with debris to the extent that the very dirty pleats were already deforming badly); (7) a software upgrade was performed that eliminated the SUM error message leaving only the RR shock / strut code. As mentioned elsewhere in this forum, the angle gear, transmission, and F & R fluids had already been changed out with Volvo fluids last June. Brake pads and discs have lots of life left; everything else is working properly. Overall the 'R' was assessed to be in great shape overall and performing as it should be except for the RR shock which is not seen as a drivability or safety issue, so replacement is at the owner's discretion.

Observations -- first, there is some very, very light weeping taking place on the angle gear housing. The mechanic noted this was not anything to be concerned about at this time, but should be monitored. Second, the front struts are also weeping very, very lightly (this was observed at the time of purchase and hasn't changed one bit, so it not seen as a problem). Third, there is a very slow oil leak around the block heater at the bottom of the new oil pan -- this is on the Toyota shop's watch from a couple of weeks ago when the pan was replaced (story elsewhere in this forum), not Volvo's responsibility, so I'll bring it back to Toyota for a new gasket in the next couple of weeks -- no rush. Fourth, driving the 300KM (200 miles) return to home on Friday evening, it was obvious that the car is now performing much better than what I have become used to over the past +10,000KM, most likely on account of easier breathing now that the air filter has been replaced and the replacement plugs are on spec. I thought the car was great to begin with (and it has been, no question), but now, acceleration is notably quicker in all gears and the measured fuel mileage is over 10% better than before (I was very meticulous about this on the return trip as I really wanted to know).

Interestingly, the mechanic pointed out an electronics control box that is located inboard from and just ahead of the fuel filter, and said that there is an upgrade kit available that moves the box to the tailgate away from potential damage from road debris, impacts, water etc. I have never heard of this: perhaps other forum members know about it?

The future, and a request -- so the 'R' continues to be a great performer and now seems to be even more economical on gas than it was previously. I'll have the Goodyear tires / pegs switched over to the studded Hakkapelittas on their own pegs in the next while in anticipation of Winter's arrival. In the meantime, I am looking for the lowest-cost replacement shocks / struts for the rear, both sides. Volvo replacement cost on these items is over one grand each. Ouch. Anyone out there with recommendations for saving dollars but keeping the standards reasonably high? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

RSVP / Cheers / Blueleezard

[Tzantushka1568908311]

Anyone out there with recommendations for saving dollars but keeping the standards reasonably high? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hey Blue,

Unfortuantely OEM shocks are the only way to go (unless you want error messages)

On line with Rock Auto, Tasca and Volvo Wholesale Parts have the keenest prices

Failing that, there's a few others on Swedespeed who have managed to jimmy-up a solution using resistors and non 4C shocks.

Not what I would personally do myself...

Good luck

Trent

[SL8R]

(4) new plugs were installed (old ones were non-Volvo unbeknownst to me and were gapped in an inconsistent way according to the mechanic -- they also looked like hell when we inspected them -- the stock plugs are un-gappable and have three electrodes, not one)

It sounds like you got the wrong plugs installed. The correct stock plugs are gappable and do not have three electrodes. What part number did you have installed? The correct part number is 30751806.

See the posts (with pictures) from John @ Boston Volvo in this thread: http://forums.swedespeed,com/showthread.php?112457-Part-Number-of-S60R-spark-plugs

[raeste]

Thanks Trent and S&S --

1.0 -- so I'll continue investigating the shock / strut replacement thing and will end up making some sort of decision -- but given that the default situation doesn't seem to be causing any problems at least for now, I'm not in a big rush to spend the $

2.0 -- the plug replacement question is interesting -- I'm traveling at the moment, so won't bother calling Eric the shop guy at Volvo of Edmonton about it until next week -- but it would just be my luck if they put the wrong plugs in there ... if they did, the right ones will go in pretty damned quick, I'd say ...

More later, and thanks again guys,

Cheers / Blueleezard

S&S -- I had a quick look at the invoice from Volvo of Edmonton, and it says right there that the part number for the plug kit is 30751806. I gather from John's comments from Boston Volvo that the part number for the replacement plugs is 30751806. Same number. So, from that, I think the right ones are in there. It is entirely possible I mis-heard the mechanic at Volvo of Edmonton describing the plugs -- there were three conversations going on at the same time while we stood there in the shop, and it was pretty noisy overall -- so likely I didn't properly hear the points about gappable / un-gappable / number(s) of electrodes, even though I thought I had. This wouldn't be the first time that my selective hearing has kicked in. Sometimes, I don't do the dishes even though my wife claims to have reminded me to do them five or six times ...

Thanks again,

Blueleezard

[raeste]

So, this afternoon up at the local Toyota dealer, had the new-this-past-Summer Eagle GTs removed. They were primarily for relatively good weather, they are spectacularly good in the rain, and they have dedicated 'R' rims. They were replaced by the studded Nokian Hakkapeliittas for Winter that were on the car in the last "nasty" season, also on dedicated 'R' rims.

All is good. Balance on all 4 corners is perfect, and now we are "set" and really well prepared for whatever Winter will throw at us. If it's like the past Winter -- should be no problemo.

The 'R' is running perfectly, better than ever following the last bits of the 168K maintenance. Nothing like replacing all the belts, plugs, and the air and fuel filters! Like I reported earlier, fuel mileage has improved about 10%, which is great.

The angle gear, all seals, all brakes and pads appear fine ... and following the service at Volvo of Edmonton, things could not be better. Knock wood!

The weather predictions for the next few weeks do not include snow. But, that means nothing -- the weather here in the Calgary and proximate foothills area is the most difficult to predict of just about anywhere else in N America. Surprises can appear at any time, and it's almost certain that whatever you were expecting will be replaced by something quite different. You thought sun? Too bad -- here's the freezing rain!

Hence my commitment to this amazing 'R' coupled with the Hakkapeliittas -- as I've said elsewhere on this forum, over many decades I have never experienced a better combination of tires, mechanicals, and computer mediation for this "intelligent" AWD. As far as I'm concerned, it's perfect.

And, let's face it -- "real" Winter will arrive soon enough -- including heavy North winds and large quantities of snow and ice. Gee -- I can hardly wait (not)!

So, regarding that RR shock / strut -- from what I can tell so far, TASCA seems to have the best price for replacement shocks / struts. Had an extended conversation this afternoon with the mechanic who will do the change-over for the rear set. Thank goodness he's a Volvo nut even if he works at the Toyota store.

From what I can tell, there are no worries, at least at the moment. Don't know when this change-out work will take place -- could be as far off as next Spring -- right now the 'R' is running 100%, as I have said. The "default" suspension settings are no problem whatsoever.

So, what's the summary? In general, the 'R' is working really well, and "problems" have been minimal. Can't say enough "good" about this vehicle as Winter approaches!

Last thing before "real" Winter sets in is to splice in a proper connection to the block heater -- shouldn't be an issue. I will not spend the $ for the "recommended" full replacement when it's obvious there is fraying in one small location on the cable, easily fixed, and no need whatsoever to replace the heater itself. What a rip to replace the whole works ... totally unnecessary.

So, on we go ...

Cheers / Blueleezard

[raeste]

Update: so, it has been cool and Wintery in the past while -- this AM it was -26C. The message that announces "chassis setting service required" has disappeared for the time being, regardless of conditions, and has remained "gone" for a good long time now. Seems to be dependent on temperature / humidity. The "comfort-sport-advanced" settings are once more working perfectly -- viscerally evident in current driving conditions. And all other features of the 'R' are working perfectly. This leads me to believe that whatever is going on, the RR shock / strut is still in fine condition (works great), and it is the electrical connection from the strut to the rest of the system that requires attention. True Winter is approaching; I'll have the Volvo "nut" at the local Toyota dealer tackle whatever needs to be done. Onwards ...

Cheers to all / Blueleezard