jcadlols Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 I don't actually have the car at the moment (it's getting panel repair), so I can't measure anything. Another post just reminded me of the issue. Basically, even when running, the headlights and interior lighting will dim when using the power windows. The more windows I use, the more it dims. If it's just the ignition on, without the engine running, I can even hear the fuel pump slow down. For a while I assumed it was because the car's battery and voltage regulator were on the way out (and they both were), however it now has a fresh 160A (rather than the standard 120A) Bosch voltage regulator & a new Bosch battery and the issue is still there. It doesn't currently adversely affect the car's running but I'm concerned as to why there is so much current draw from the windows, or perhaps there is a grounding / other issue at play. The windows work fine, however the passenger (left) side is a bit slower than the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NEU Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 How's the B+ cable coming off the alternator? Also look at chassis ground connections too. I added a new battery cable that goes straight to the battery off the alternator and bypasses the starter. I had corrosion around the starter connection but the rest of it was fine. That was enough to give me the same issue with the windows and my dash and cabin lights would flicker at night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcadlols Posted June 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 I'll check. Are there any write-ups on testing it, or is it just a simple case of measuring the resistance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEJinFBK Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 Search "Voltage Drop" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NEU Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Also look up the "Big 3" battery/Alt, ground cable upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcadlols Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 I have the car back. The voltage drop in the cable between the battery and the engine bay fuse box is around 0.01 volts. There is some light corrosion in the crimp connector, in the fuse box, but going off that voltage drop, I'd think it's fine. Is there a technique to testing it between the alternator & the battery? I can't for the life of me get my multimeter prong onto the positive terminal on the alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.