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How To: Manual Boost Controller


bond1318

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And I'm going to answer to my own question.

I tightened the actuator's arm all the way. I left MBC fully opened, the boost was 0,9 bar.

Interesting is that boost lag is almost gone.

It starts to come out of the vaccuum from 2000 rpm and rapidly raises to the max.

And you can hear the whistle better and the car accelerates very smoothly, but I don't know what A/F ratio is doing.

Also, you don't get any more of that hard kick in the back, when suddenly turbo kicks in.

Raising boost to the level I want is no problem.

Haven't had a chance to test it at 4th gear til the redline, so I don't know how it holds the boost.

Another day I loosened the actuator's arm a bit, because I'm not sure how good/bad is that low end boost.

Now, it comes out of the vaccuum from 3000 rpm and quickly gets to the 1,2 bar.

I think I'm going to leave it there for awhile.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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So Im still pondering whether I want to do this or not but what it really comes down to are these three questions:

1. What exactly is the difference between running the MBC with the boost control solenoid at the same time? Benefits, Disadvantages?

2. I have a completely stock 12t phase 1 engine with an Upsolute ecu in it and am very pleased with the increased performance. Does having an upsolute chip help with MBC tuning due to boost related ecu modifications (CEL, A/F ratio)?

3. Does upsolute also have any effect on whether I should keep the BCS in place as is or not?

Keep in mind that I go to school in Vermont and live in NY, so excessively cold temperatures are no problem up here. As well, I am planning on getting a CAI somewhere down the line.

Another last question, is there any final information on what tightening the wastegate actuator does?

Thanks for the help, its been a while since i've posted here.

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answering your questions

1. The benefit of running the mbc inline with the solenoid, is that the ECU still maintains some of the engine's safety. Disadvantage, you can't modulate boost as well with the pedal using both the solenoid and the bcs. The solenoid over time gets dirty and begins to stick, making the boost perform funny.

2. Many people are running mbc's on cars that have been tuned by upsolute. Most check engine light issues from running an mbc with software is overboost detected by the MAP sensor. (same is true if you're not tuned).

3. Upsolute software doesn't care about the solenoid, it adds fuel according to boost.

So yes, you can run an mbc with a software remap. Yes, you can run it along with the BCS, but why?

Leave the BCS attached electronically, but cap the ends of it. Install your MBC. And you should have no check engine light until you go over 15psi. With a 12T upsolute, you could run 15-17psi daily.

And i'd skip the cold air intake and just use a k&n panel. You'd be better off spening money on exhaust if you haven't already.

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Thanks alot for the help, im gonna order an MBC off the internet now!

Just one more question, the BCS is just for regulating boost as controled by the ecu in a stock car?

In effect, the bcs is an electronic boost controller (with boost determined by ecu settings) in itself?

it just seems a little harder to accurately modulate boost since mbc with bcs allows for a smaller modulation of an already set boost level as opposed to complete control resting on the MBC for all boost level modulation.

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  • 2 weeks later...

S40Monster wrote on Fri, 08 July 2005 18:35

I already have.

S40Monster wrote on Sat, 23 April 2005 02:51

Old topic, but I dealt with this issue recently and figured I'd throw up the answer. You take the line running to the intake and simply remove it, then plug the hole that's in your intake. The line that was running to the wastegate actuator you plug into the output of the MBC, and you plug the remaining line into the input. What do with the actual sensor I haven't quite figured out, the car will run with it removed from the car, but I'm not sure what effect if any this has on the car. I'm not sure if I should reinstall it and cap it, or just leave it as is.

can someone please take a pic of how to do this? I dont really understand it

Alex, got a photo of it? I think we have the same setups.

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tomedkaz wrote on Sat, 24 November 2007 23:29

S40Monster wrote on Fri, 08 July 2005 18:35

I already have.

S40Monster wrote on Sat, 23 April 2005 02:51

Old topic, but I dealt with this issue recently and figured I'd throw up the answer. You take the line running to the intake and simply remove it, then plug the hole that's in your intake. The line that was running to the wastegate actuator you plug into the output of the MBC, and you plug the remaining line into the input. What do with the actual sensor I haven't quite figured out, the car will run with it removed from the car, but I'm not sure what effect if any this has on the car. I'm not sure if I should reinstall it and cap it, or just leave it as is.

can someone please take a pic of how to do this? I dont really understand it

Alex, got a photo of it? I think we have the same setups.

i did this and honestly couldnt tell a difference. i dont even run a boost controller anymore and run 20 psi. maybe its just me but i dont notice a difference

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With the MBC Tom and I have disconnecting the stock BC does make a difference.Unfortunately Tom picture will tell you nothing.What you do is take off the red hose from the top of the stock BC and connect it into the T piece inlet side..The yellow you have already on the T piece.Block the 2 nipple on the stock BC then you are all set for no spiking boost.

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GerBeGurGya wrote on Sat, 24 November 2007 23:46

With the MBC Tom and I have disconnecting the stock BC does make a difference.Unfortunately Tom picture will tell you nothing.What you do is take off the red hose from the top of the stock BC and connect it into the T piece inlet side..The yellow you have already on the T piece.Block the 2 nipple on the stock BC then you are all set for no spiking boost.

thanks. i'll do it tomorrow and I'll call you (if you dont mind) while im doing it coz even though it sounds easy i know i could screw it up easily Smile

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This is what I did, and did notice a difference. Test each setup and you'll notice.

Hose from the compressor (red) goes into MBC inlet

Attach hose from MBC outlet to the wastegate(yellow)

Leave the fresh air hose(blue) attached to the BCS and intake Leave the BCS sensor connected

Loop a short piece of hose on the remaining two BCS ends

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  • 2 weeks later...

with only installing the manual boost controller, and not touching the solenoid, you guys said the check engine light will come on because the computer notices the up of boost to the turbo, does the check engine light stay on? and if it does will that affect the computer or engine in any other way? Also, if I disconnect the mbc will the light reset and go back off?

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It doesn't matter if you take the BCS out of the circuit or not.Depending on the tune CEL will come on over 15PSI.CEL will go away after a certain event less cycle but the code will be readable.CEL does not effect anything other than state inspection will fail your car.If you decide to bypass the BCS just leave the electronic plug connected so the ECU wont see that its aint working.

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GerBeGurGya wrote on Mon, 03 December 2007 21:27

It doesn't matter if you take the BCS out of the circuit or not.Depending on the tune CEL will come on over 15PSI.CEL will go away after a certain event less cycle but the code will be readable.CEL does not effect anything other than state inspection will fail your car.If you decide to bypass the BCS just leave the electronic plug connected so the ECU wont see that its aint working.

alex, post a photo of it coz I cant for the love of my life figure it out

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tomedkaz wrote on Mon, 03 December 2007 22:21

GerBeGurGya wrote on Mon, 03 December 2007 21:27

It doesn't matter if you take the BCS out of the circuit or not.Depending on the tune CEL will come on over 15PSI.CEL will go away after a certain event less cycle but the code will be readable.CEL does not effect anything other than state inspection will fail your car.If you decide to bypass the BCS just leave the electronic plug connected so the ECU wont see that its aint working.

alex, post a photo of it coz I cant for the love of my life figure it out

Here you go.I marked yellow you have on there already.Where I marked red on the T piece you have the other end of the yellow currently from the BCS.Pull it off and plug it.Take the marked red hose from the BCS and connect it to the T piece you just pulled the yellow off from.Plug the nipple was red on the BCS.Leave the blue as it is.

On the end you will have only the blue on the BCS.The red hose on the T piece as marked and the yellow as marked.

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=14603

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