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Sway Bars


Slater

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Don't care, and don't need to keep the front swaybar from doing the left-right shimmy. The beefed up swaybar links with the protper washers (thanks to slater) should take care of that. by the way he person who is afraid of wrenching on their bars will not give a Darn about this upgrade.

I like it, make it @250 bucks or so (not including the links) and we would probably have a deal. I don't care to bandaid my handling, I'm talking turn in folks. You can set up the corner perfect but if you flick the wheel and the car dives against you your screwed.

Drank too much, getting too pasionate about handling. Should just buy a 911 and be happy.

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1994 850GLT N/A

Removed A/C and other weight reduction

Not sure of tires but they're so-so, decent on the 15" bbs-ish wheels

Eibachs, Bilstein HD's, iPd bars, OMP brace

-Andy

So with full IPD sways he was getting brake induced oversteer?

Turbos have more understeer due to more weight up front for the turbo stuff. That's one of the reaons why Volvo put the larger rear bar on the turbo models.

I wonder what IPD assumed when they designed their kit? Lighter N/A or front-heavier turbos? Probably the N/A. If so, with the same kit on a turbo model you will get more understeer than on an N/A using the IPD kit. If they designed it for the turbos the N/As would have less udersteer which I'll bet they didn't want.

hmmmm

- Slater

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry to post a newbie question and bring this thread out of the depths of the ocean but...

...would the best combo for decreasing roll and reducing understeer on a '95 Turbo sedan be (as stated) the IPD rear and R front? And am I correct in thinking that Volvos tend to understeer, especially turbo models?

And another person said that most cars understeer because the majority of the populous can't drive properly. I'm a newbie driver (only had a license for two years) and I'm not sure if cancelling the understeer would be too dangerous. Or would I be pleasently surprised after I got used to it. I don't know very much about performance driving but am eager and willing to learn. Comments?

Thanks! :)

-Por

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use ur common sense and less understeer wouldn't be too bad.. just be careful

ipd didn't assume much... at least, no initially anyway i don't think. they had two packages when they first got the 850. sport and touring. sport: 25mm front 25mm rear. touring: 25 mm front 22 mm rear. both sets broke the rear bar. so they gave up on the 25mm rear and stuck with the 22mm rear...which as many of u know, still causes a lot of breakages..

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Sorry to post a newbie question and bring this thread out of the depths of the ocean but...

...would the best combo for decreasing roll and reducing understeer on a '95 Turbo sedan be (as stated) the IPD rear and R front?  And am I correct in thinking that Volvos tend to understeer, especially turbo models?

And another person said that most cars understeer because the majority of the populous can't drive properly.  I'm a newbie driver (only had a license for two years) and I'm not sure if cancelling the understeer would be too dangerous.  Or would I be pleasently surprised after I got used to it.  I don't know very much about performance driving but am eager and willing to learn.  Comments?

Thanks! :)

-Por

Holy back from the dead thread Batman!

Your idea is close. If you want the MOST reduction in understeer it wouild be the IPD rear and BASE model front (i.e. 20mm front).

However, VMS has not released their bars yet, so the above is only true assuming they don't release a larger rear bar than IPD.

However, if you have only been driving for 2 years I would recommend installing the IPD kit as-is - IPD front AND rear bar. They are designed to work together. The mix n match approach is more for advanced chassis tuners and people with more driving experience, both on the track and off.

If you only use the IPD rear bar with the stock front bar, I am sorry to say the first time you hit some black ice or hydroplane you will more than likely be shopping for a new car.

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