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Dynamat/peelnseal And Tailgate Paint Fix - Wow!


Slater

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I replaced my tailgate lock last night because I had to slam the tailgate 5-6 times to get it to shut properly, and while I was in there I took everything out, repaired the "tailgate handle paint damage fix" and also dynamatted everything. I got some generic Dynamat Extreme on ebay for super cheap. I guess it's the same thing as Peel N Seal (bout 1/16" thick, alum in 1 side.

All I can say is WOW! What a huge difference. This should be the first thing on everyone's list. The car is sooooo much quieter now, and the tailgate feels nice and solid with the extra weight. The new latch also closes on the first try perfectly. And I did have a nasty paint chip that was starting to rust where the tailgate handle had damaged the paint at the corners. So I cleaned it all out really good, touched it up, and protected it with black vinyl before putting the handle back on.

I'm glad I saw that tech bullitin in VADIS or I would have never known about it as the paint damage is really hard to see with the handle on.

I can't wait to do the rest of the doors with the sound deadener! Guys, if you haven't already done this you will kick yourself when you finally do. Seriously - it made my 10-year old squeak/rattle machine feel like a brand new car.

- Slater

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Could you copy or point me to where you got the info on the paint problem. I've never heard of it (don't have VADIS).

I have a '97 850 GLT wagon.

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Could you copy or point me to where you got the info on the paint problem.  I've never heard of it (don't have VADIS).

I have a '97 850 GLT wagon.

Here ya go:

Method #1:

tailgate%20method1.jpg

Method#2

tailgate%20method2.jpg

It appears that there's 2 ways to fix it. The protective tape is one way and they also have a small rubber gasket that goes there that does the same thing I guess. Not that regardless of HOW you protect it, that you still have to FIX the damage. So you still have to touch up the damaged spots, and use the tape and/or gasket to prevent future damage.

Since I didn't have either the Volvo tape or the rubber gasket, I cut a strip of vinyl (like the stuff they make signs and vehicle lettering out of) the same shape as the handle and put that on. You could also use electrical tape as it's not affected by temperature, it will stay stuck because the handle is bolted to the body with the tape sandwiched in between, and the tape is completely under the handle so you will not see it. Electrical tape is thick and pliable so it would be easy to follow the line of the handle. It's easy to see - the paint is worn and damaged in the perfect outline of the handle! If I was going to do it again I would just use electrical tape.

All you're trying to do is prevent the handle from damaging the paint after you touch the paint up and fix the spot. If you don't protect it, it will just happen again.

The sucky thing is that you have to take the handle off to get to it, and to do that you have to remove all of the panels as well as the wiper motor. It was no biggie for me since I was in there anyways replacing my door latch and dynamatting, but if you were just going to do the paint fix and nothing else it is a lot of work for something that you can't really see. That's why as long as you're in there you would be foolish not to dynamat or peel n seal it because it makes sooo much of a difference.

I can say that if you don't fix it it WILL rust though, so that should be motivation enough.

- Slater

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All I can say is WOW! What a huge difference. This should be the first thing on everyone's list. The car is sooooo much quieter now, and the tailgate feels nice and solid with the extra weight. The new latch also closes on the first try perfectly...

...I can't wait to do the rest of the doors with the sound deadener! Guys, if you haven't already done this you will kick yourself when you finally do. Seriously - it made my 10-year old squeak/rattle machine feel like a brand new car.

- Slater

i did that for my rear tailgate too...and the four doors. did the repairs on the tailgate clips...put in new ones also...

the car was slightly quieter...for about a few weeks. <_<

now it's noisy as hell again...

the tailgate got pretty darn heavy... i'm afraid the shocks that hold them up won't last too long like that... it already doesn't hold up the extra weight if u keep the tailgate open halfway...something it was able to do without the dynamat stuff..

anyway..

good to know about the paint chip'n inside the handle. next time i feel like opening the gate up again i'll def take a look. thanx!

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i did that for my rear tailgate too...and the four doors.  did the repairs on the tailgate clips...put in new ones also...

the car was slightly quieter...for about a few weeks. <_<

now it's noisy as hell again...

the tailgate got pretty darn heavy... i'm afraid the shocks that hold them up won't last too long like that...  it already doesn't hold up the extra weight if u keep the tailgate open halfway...something it was able to do without the dynamat stuff..

How many layers did you use? Shouldn't have been THAT heavy! I only used 1 layer, but I guess if you use 3+ like some people recommend it may be too heavy. Mine is maybe only 2 lbs heavier max. The shocks should be able to handle that no problem. Also, I have a stock spoiler (prob also weighs 2 lbs) which is at the extreme end of the tailgate - I'll bet that helps counter balance the weight of the peel n seal at the bottom of the tailgate (think a teeter totter).

No one that has done this has mentioned the problem that you had. It definitely shouldn't have gotten louder!

I'm a little hesitant to do the doors though. Once you do the doors it's almost impossible to have a dent taken out (by a Dent Wizard etc).

- Slater

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How many layers did you use? Shouldn't have been THAT heavy! I only used 1 layer, but I guess if you use 3+ like some people recommend it may be too heavy. Mine is maybe only 2 lbs heavier max. The shocks should be able to handle that no problem. Also, I have a stock spoiler (prob also weighs 2 lbs) which is at the extreme end of the tailgate - I'll bet that helps counter balance the weight of the peel n seal at the bottom of the tailgate (think a teeter totter).

only one layer. but i did put the dynamat extreme on both the metal tailgate part AND the fiberglass trim part.

by the way...is that tailgate trim a pita to get to and fix or what??? :) and the bad thing is all the tailgates including the new p2 wagons sound like crap when u tap on the interior trim... yikes. i sure as hope they didn't do the same clip crap

No one that has done this has mentioned the problem that you had. It definitely shouldn't have gotten louder!

i think the rest of the car is just loose..and the biggest culprit being that cargo cover that u said u were gonna replace.

I'm a little hesitant to do the doors though. Once you do the doors it's almost impossible to have a dent taken out (by a Dent Wizard etc).

- Slater

really? i thought there were two layers to the door, inner and outer... i didn't dynamat over all the screws...just the bare parts...for the most part..

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hahah yup... dampening the car should be one of the first things people do.

Although going this route adds weight to your car... but our cars are already freakin massive anyhow.

Only the car strippers will care about the "extra" 10-20 pounds... depending how much you are applying etc.

Glad you like how everything worked out Slater B)

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hahah yup... dampening the car should be one of the first things people do.

Although going this route adds weight to your car... but our cars are already freakin massive anyhow.

Only the car strippers will care about the "extra" 10-20 pounds... depending how much you are applying etc.

Glad you like how everything worked out Slater  B)

I was worried about the weight too, but 1 layer will add at the most 7 lbs. That's how much the roll I am using weighs. 7 lbs is nothing. You can take a big dump and make up the difference.

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