1clean00 Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 ok had a few min to research... ETM. got it... ..so i thought i cleaned it well.... but i see videos of people using a wire brush and opening up the center disc and cleaning the edges. I think i was a bit delicate with my cleaning method. Also maybe something isn not right with the sensor. so at least now i have a few idea that you all helped facilitate. it looks like this idle bounce happens to a good amount of volvo owners.. Mine not nearly as wacky or often as other people. just my update of... at least I'm trying to look up some stuff. the clock is ticking and I may need to toss in the red rag. I also don't know if my massive oil consumption is gunking up the ETM right? i guess i could take a look at the pipe from intercooler to ETM and only look at the intercooler side since it is a much easier access and look for some oil? thanks for readingJon The angle gears need a reseal from time to time. Most Volvo's of that age i've come across have had wet angle gears. The etm could get more contaminated if the turbo itself had failing bearings, more oil would pass through and get into the intake track. That could explain your oil consumption. The turbo being dry on the outside just means that the drain pipe and oil feed lines are leak free, but could still be leaking internally. Some oil in the intake is normal, but if its really pooled up inside the piping then you have an issue with your turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinkjon Posted October 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 ok.. i think i understand.. today i stopped at the volvo shop and set up a date for them to check the car out. I got to meet the tech who was going to be looking at the car. It was a nice feeling that he did explain to me that most of the awd cars in the shop have wet angle gears. he was going to take a look to make sure but he felt ( with out looking) that it is not going to be an issue, but if it needed resealing it would be like 5 hours ... it was actually nice talking to a tech who got to hear the history first hand of what i have done with the car and what my long term goals are. funny cause he kinda laughed and completely understood what a PIA the banjo bolt is to get on and off the intake. It took me like 1.5 hours to get it off and 2 hours to get it on. yeah i know I'm very green. He did feel like that i would have a lot more smoke in the AM if i needed new valve seals cause the oil sitting on top would just leak down all night. Also made a comment that i should wait till 120,000 miles to do the timing belt. I thought it was 110,00 but the comment made was that was for older models . I asked him when he gets the car to just look at everything and anything that may need fixing. i got a good vibe from him. the wife made a comment of how do i know i can trust him.. i said.. i don't really have a choice. as for the idle bounce, i'm going to spray carb cleaner and see if there is a leak somewhere. tech told me no worries about which kind and there is no special coating on the Throttle bodies of these caR. I'll try that and see if something came loose, otherwise he felt that it may be the wire harness attached. a internal turbo leak huh.. that sounds like an expensive thing... new/ rebuild turbo...if that is the issue, is a turbo hard to replace? it doesn't look that hard but the intake looked a lot easier to get on and off then it actually was with the stupid PCV system attached. If turbo is the case, i'm sure its expensive... is there a better option then going OEM that would be close to price and give improvement.. or does that road lead me to... needing to upgrade everything involved.. IC,exhaust DP computer ect soooo.... drop off is Tuesday night i will keep you all posted and i hope the money i spend on this will help save $ for others . thanks for reading!Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinkjon Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 hey all.. UPDATE.. got the call from volvo.. i forgot to even ask about the code... piston rings is the only thing they could come up with for the oil consumption. change viscosity to thicker oil could help the issue. band Aid i'm very upsetill repost later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinkjon Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 to add to the update.. they feel the code is happening cause of the massive consumption of oil.. could this be the reason the idle is bouncing? please feel free to comment the plan is to clear code put 20-w50 conventional oil in with an oil additive and see if that stops the oil consumption or at least low it down from the 500 miles per qt issueeither way it does sound like the beginning of the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinkjon Posted December 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 Hi all... I know the thread seems dead, but I assure you that my grocery go getter tat is supposed to make a huge trip for the holiday has been non stop on my mind..... So, I found a crack in the charge pipe ... i dare not call it OTE pipe ... I did plastic weld it and it cracked again... ha! i knew cause the check engine light came on. I decided to re do it again cause the IPD turbo to IC is not going to get to me for about a month plus so I fixed it last night again but this time spent more time sanding it. Also it cracked right at the mounting point and i was stupid enough to reinstall it using the mount.. yep the upper engine mount is way shot so the extra vibration i'm sure cracked it the first and second time. This time I will not use the mount screw. BUT.. and A big BUT.. I decided to start looking around and I hope, I discovered my oil consumption problem. chances are I am wrong, but I looked down into the outport of the turbo to charge pipe and I think I see a crack in the housing and an oil line stain. I'm trying to get a good picture of it so I can see if it is a crack and I will keep you posted. so yeah that's a big job but compared to the volvo deal telling me my piston rings are shot i'll be happy to dump the money into the car for an upgrade turbo and ecu flash and and and... well you all know that kinda stuff. the only problem is, even if it is cracked, what if I had this crack for a long time and it is not the issue of my oil consumption? I ran around all day trying to find good fittings for a vacuum gauge of the brake booster and so tired i didn't even try it out tonight. >>>> does anyone know if there is a steady vacuum pressure at idle in the TCV? those are smaller fitting and would make life easier.. any way I hope to check vacuum tomorrow.. if you know what the reading is supposed to be, please let me know ASAP. ok.. thanks for reading this and and I'm very appreciative of any input. Ill try and load up pictures once I get some to load Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinkjon Posted December 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 ok so the family gave me a little time and I got this picture.. I have more but i need to down scale them to upload to v70R the dark line going downi think is oil stain but the top of it shows a crack on an angle. I don't know what that driver side scre hole is and if there is an oil supply on the other side of it..going to go to vacuum test nowany thoughts? could this be the source of massive oil consumption.. lets see what the vacuum test tells me.boy i hope the dealership is wrong on bad piston ringstrying to uplaod pic again... not working and this time1.8MB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinkjon Posted December 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 UPDATE..vacuum test 18 when hooked up to brake booster... when hitting throttle it goes up to 24 then works its way back to 18 when hitting brakes it drops but quickly returns to 18. in double checking i tried i different connection and it was similar results compression test: not sure how the count goes so i will discuss counting left to right when facing car #1 dry 139, wet 170. #2 dry 135, wet 174. #3 dry 142, wet 181. #4 dry 132, wet 175. #5 dry 135, wet 175. when I did it wet the first time i don't think i used enough oil cause the numbers were all about 10-25 more than dry so i decided to check on line to see what others do and the seems to use more than i was using . I at first used about 1/4 cap of a mobil one oil cap and the second time i used more and numbers went up by a lot more as you can see.. not sure if i compromised the test by going back and adding more oil and retesting .. any thoughts are welcomed, thanks for reading ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinkjon Posted December 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 although it has been some time since anyone has been able to make a comment, the holiday season is here and I am still searching for an answer. Looks like no big road trip this year.... So today I did a leak down test.... i've never done this before, but here are the numbers... #1 19%, #2 17%, #3 4%, #4 2%, #5 2% I believe all leak was oil dip stick and oil valve fill hole (piston leak). I thought i heard a leak from one cylinder to the next (1 &2) but put spark back in #1 and it didn't make a difference. assuming I did this right, it looks like everything is under 20% and I thought that's ok. But i am aware of the difference between the 1&2 and 3,4,5. using the 20-50 oil with an oil treatment i went 1300 miles on a qt. much better than the 300-500. just wish I knew if the fuel trim P0170 code was all related. The spark plugs that are new(5 months) do not look healthy.. my friend who looked at it said they look like they have been through lean and rich conditions. I guess the good news is I actually know what is meant by the term "4 stroke" now. is it possible to have a turbo functioning ok and have a bad enough internal leak to eat up synthetic oil 5-w30 qt in 300 miles and 20-w50 conventional in 1300 miles? is there any test to check internal leak? i know some oil in the air system is ok but how much? as a side note when i took off the MAF to clean it i looked down intake and it looked like there was caked on brown oil staining.. is that a diagnostic piece of info or just normal for 107,000k miles . inspection is due this summer so I would like to figure this all out and if the motor is fine I do not want to mess it up by continually driving it I welcome any and all comments. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinkjon Posted December 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 PS if anyone has a local Indy volvo i would like a contact.. i'm in the metropolitan area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinkjon Posted April 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 Those who may still be reading.... 4th mechanic pulled down pipe and ran car.... White ash staining... Little bit of play on compressor wheel. Ran car and guy wanted confirmation with oil splatter on his simple method of checking but no splatter although thoughts are turbo is hot and vaporizing oil into white ash causing smoke on acceleration. Conclusion is get a new turbo to solve oil consumption. seafoamed gas and check engine light went out... Took awhile but could be cause I needed car to cycle. Got an idle bounce or 2 over last few weeks but no light. i sure hope it's turbo all comments welcomed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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