Welditup Posted October 14, 2015 Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 I filled up with a half a tank of 89octane and the s40 is pissed. As soon as the rpms approach 4000rpms she stutters and spits. My dad has no problems running 89 in his 2002 s40 but mine runs like crap on it. I was experimenting with a lower grade octane for long commutes but looks like I'm going back to shell 93octane. Obviously with spirited driving I will always run 93 octane. What does my car run like dog poop compared my dads 2002 s40 on 89 octane? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy B. Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 turbo's car need 91 octane minimum. Your Dads car is N/A or turbo ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welditup Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 My dads is a 2002 s40 1.9t with almost identical miles. I was skeptical putting that crap gas in my car but his drives fine. I get down the road 30ish miles and I noticed the difference right away. I'm guessing its the way our ecu's are set-up. I have the Siemens 2000 and his has the bosch ECU. I'm going straight 93 from now on. I am just curious why such a huge difference with both cars. Hmm, spark plug gap, ECU, coils...who knows I guess. I took it for a drive today to feel out if I want to buy it in a couple months, case closed; I'm buying another s40 1.9t very soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1clean00 Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 The 96' - 04.5 S/V40's all have the Siemens EMS 2000. The difference is in the mapping, injector sizing and maf. The newer models also got lighter pistons to help with fuel economy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welditup Posted October 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Ohh,ok. I don't know where I read it but I recall reading something about s40's getting a bosch. I stand corrected. My car ran pig rich for the small time frame I ran it. But my car is back to normal with 93octane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s40speed Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catback Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 hmmmm, odd issue. I mostly ran premium in the 40 once I swapped the new engine in. For the 76k miles prior to that, just plain old regular was fine. I seem to recall reading the owners manual and regular was ok. How many miles on the engine? Injectors cleaned in recent memory? PCV service? Fuel Filer, FPR, and fuel pressure check?2000 X40s had a smaller injector than 2001+ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welditup Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 hmmmm, odd issue. I mostly ran premium in the 40 once I swapped the new engine in. For the 76k miles prior to that, just plain old regular was fine. I seem to recall reading the owners manual and regular was ok. How many miles on the engine? Injectors cleaned in recent memory? PCV service? Fuel Filer, FPR, and fuel pressure check?2000 X40s had a smaller injector than 2001+The car is up to par except for checking the fuel pressure. Other info is in my sig. But unfornutely my car did the sputtering and breaking up in the 4,000 plus rpm range earlier today. Car car fine with the 93octane up until temps hit a low 30 degrees today. Hoping a check engine pops up soon,ugh! Until then I'm going to check fuel pressure and bad injector(s) tomorrow after work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1clean00 Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 Apparently if you swap the red 420 cc injectors along with a MAF from that model year the ecu won't run so rich in open loop fueling and you'll net a few HP. If you just up the injectors with no other tuning provisions, it'll dump fuel at cold idle, warm idle, and anything over 4K rpms (WOT situations). Best way to check fuel pressure without a gauge is to just hit the schrader valve after it's sat overnight, if it still has fuel pressure it'll spit some fuel. The valve is on the fuel rail, looks like a tire valve stem. Just have a rag ready and push it in with a flat head, you'll know right away whether or not your o-rings and FPR are good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diio Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 89 octane ... cant even buy that in my cuntry^^ i run mine on 98+ octane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catback Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 89 octane ... cant even buy that in my cuntry^^ i run mine on 98+ octane Yes, but your car is far from stock and is an object of worship. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welditup Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 Well I pulled up a code p0455 today. Finally I can start wrenchin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diio Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 Yes, but your car is far from stock and is an object of worship.hehe well i use 95 octane for my other stock cars (lowest octane you can get in sweden) if you use high octane fuel you will decrese the spikings in the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welditup Posted October 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 I've done a little research about evap delete kits. There out there for VW. Basically they say you can run resistors to keep the CEL away but the secondary air flow code can only be deleted with software,I know,I'm comparing apples to oranges but anyone heard of this applying to Volvos? I'm thinking of running a pvc delete,evap delete, and egr delete while I'm under the hood all day saturday this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1clean00 Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Well that'll be interesting. There is no egr. Why would you delete the evap system rather than just fix the leak. And why not just service the pcv system or install a catch can?You'd be better off spending that time replacing worn evap lines with silicone or new rubber emissions hose, and cleaning your throttle body and iac valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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